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help with wilwood breaks, can't get the combo right. #131643
10/03/08 04:01 PM
10/03/08 04:01 PM
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 141
Milwaukee, WI
joflaig Offline OP
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joflaig  Offline OP
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Milwaukee, WI
The resto shop put in a 4 way Wilwood disc setup on my Charger, but after a huge amount of experimentation that just can't seem to get them working right and now they're hearing from their vendor to maybe switch to manual instead of power. They have tried 4 different boosters. The setup right now is 4 piston front discs and 2 piston rear discs, with an OEM master cylendar, hemi-booster, 1" bore.

I have not tried it myself, but they say the problem is the pedal pressure, there is initial pressure, which then drops an inch and I guess when the pedal is on the floor it's stiff with no movement, though the breaks do engage, in fact so much the engine can stall. All the breaks lines are new and they've bled it to death.

Anyone have this combo working?

Last edited by joflaig; 10/03/08 04:11 PM.
Re: help with wilwood breaks, can't get the combo right. [Re: joflaig] #131644
10/03/08 04:22 PM
10/03/08 04:22 PM
Joined: Oct 2006
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quick77rt Offline
Parts Problem
quick77rt  Offline
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What type or perportioning valve are you using...ect..how is your LL plumbed????

Re: help with wilwood breaks, can't get the combo right. [Re: quick77rt ] #131645
10/03/08 04:23 PM
10/03/08 04:23 PM
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Long Island, NY USA
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BergmanAutoCraft Offline
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Just went through this on a customer car. The solution - Hyrdroboost!

Re: help with wilwood breaks, can't get the combo right. [Re: BergmanAutoCraft] #131646
10/03/08 04:27 PM
10/03/08 04:27 PM
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 141
Milwaukee, WI
joflaig Offline OP
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joflaig  Offline OP
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Milwaukee, WI
Quote:

Just went through this on a customer car. The solution - Hyrdroboost!




Yeah, we already added a vacuum boost as I was only getting 9" or so and Wilwood said we need 19" or so -- unless what you are refering to is something different.

Re: help with wilwood breaks, can't get the combo right. [Re: joflaig] #131647
10/03/08 05:07 PM
10/03/08 05:07 PM
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Long Island, NY USA
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BergmanAutoCraft Offline
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Hydroboost is a hydraulic assist setup that runs off the power steering pump. This has been used on many domestic cars and trucks as an OE piece for years. It allows you to generate WAY more line pressure than ever possible even with a vacuum booster under any circumstances. We sell them here at XV for 875, which includes the line kit and a master cylinder. Forget about the vacuum, and the manual options. IMHO they aren't options...

Re: help with wilwood breaks, can't get the combo right. [Re: BergmanAutoCraft] #131648
10/03/08 05:56 PM
10/03/08 05:56 PM
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 141
Milwaukee, WI
joflaig Offline OP
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joflaig  Offline OP
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Milwaukee, WI
Quote:

Hydroboost is a hydraulic assist setup that runs off the power steering pump. This has been used on many domestic cars and trucks as an OE piece for years. It allows you to generate WAY more line pressure than ever possible even with a vacuum booster under any circumstances. We sell them here at XV for 875, which includes the line kit and a master cylinder. Forget about the vacuum, and the manual options. IMHO they aren't options...




Hmm, that seems crazy that it's not possible to run 4x discs without this, even with a vacuum pump.

Re: help with wilwood breaks, can't get the combo right. [Re: joflaig] #131649
10/03/08 06:07 PM
10/03/08 06:07 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,849
Rio Linda, CA
John_Kunkel Offline
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Rio Linda, CA
It's possible that the calipers require more fluid volume than the 1" MC can provide, this would explain the low pedal.

What is the pedal ratio?


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Re: help with wilwood breaks, can't get the combo right. [Re: joflaig] #131650
10/03/08 10:08 PM
10/03/08 10:08 PM
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Santa Cruz, California
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Lefty Offline
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Quote:

What type or perportioning valve are you using




You don't need a valve on 4 wheel discs.

I suspect John is right about the MC running out of fluid or the MC is bad and dumping pressure past the piston.

I have 4 wheel discs with the Wilwood 4 piston calipers in front and a 6-1 pedal ratio. I'm running a 7/8" piston Wilwood MC and the brakes are great. I like manual brakes because they are always there and the pedal feel is always the same even with the engine off.

Re: help with wilwood breaks, can't get the combo right [Re: BergmanAutoCraft] #131651
10/03/08 11:28 PM
10/03/08 11:28 PM
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Posts: 5,337
the house on the left.
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cogen80 Offline
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Quote:

Just went through this on a customer car. The solution - Hyrdroboost!





hydroboost is awesome.

Re: help with wilwood breaks, can't get the combo right [Re: cogen80] #131652
10/04/08 10:13 AM
10/04/08 10:13 AM
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Houston,Tx.
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Lee446 Offline
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Houston,Tx.
I am no brake expert by any means, but, how do big brake, multi-piston cars like Vipers and Vettes manage to work with regular vac boosters? And if a vac pump is not enough, why would a manual system not work? There is something going on here that does not make sense and it sounds like a mechanical defect, ie; bad M/C or wrong or plugged distribution/proportioning valve.

Re: help with wilwood breaks, can't get the combo right [Re: Lee446] #131653
10/06/08 01:26 PM
10/06/08 01:26 PM
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Long Island, NY USA
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BergmanAutoCraft Offline
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The OEs can do this with vacuum, because their boosters and pedal linkages have the right amount of assist as well as pedal ratio designed to work with the brake system. Also, OE vehicles have vacuum, with out cammed motors do not, or not enough.

Re: help with wilwood breaks, can't get the combo right. [Re: joflaig] #131654
10/06/08 01:50 PM
10/06/08 01:50 PM
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 19
michigan
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dlocreeb Offline
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A good place to start is by using vise grips or line clamps. On the rubber hoses by the connection from the metal line clamp all three. (you should have a solid pedal) if not its either the proportioning valve or master. if you have soild pedal clamp the line on the other side and check again.(if you dont have solid pedal) your lines are stretching use stainless steel braided lines. Also oem master is fine but you must make sure it is for disc disc setup or remove residual pressure valve.

Re: help with wilwood breaks, can't get the combo right. [Re: dlocreeb] #131655
10/06/08 02:22 PM
10/06/08 02:22 PM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,577
Long Island, NY USA
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BergmanAutoCraft Offline
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Or use brake pressure gauges and find out the real pressure and F/R bias...

Re: help with wilwood breaks, can't get the combo right. [Re: BergmanAutoCraft] #131656
10/06/08 03:34 PM
10/06/08 03:34 PM
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Posts: 19
michigan
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dlocreeb Offline
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Brake pressure gauges only tell you the pressure at the calipers or wheel cylinders, it wont tell you where to start(low pressure= mc,pwr bd,prop vlv,lines,cal,wheel cyn,etc). After piching line at the calipers and you still have solid pedal then you need to look at the distance between the pads and the rotor you should not have hardley any room between them if you do check to make sure hardware isnt binding. Keep the rears pinched while checking the front first. trying to go step by step Thanks

Re: help with wilwood breaks, can't get the combo right. [Re: dlocreeb] #131657
10/07/08 09:22 AM
10/07/08 09:22 AM
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,910
Eighty Four, PA
B G Racing Offline
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We have seen a lot of problems similar to this and it had nothing to do with the brake system it's self.In many cases it was a bracket alignment or rotor hats that werent seating on the axle flange properly.Make sure your calipers are centered and parallel to the rotor,check the wheel studs to hat hole clearence,you may have to enlarge the rotor hat holes.Make sure the brackets and caliper paralell the rotor.Some times a bent house tube or end will cause you fits.You will have good pedel then loose it.







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