Quote:

---

Anywhere you can take weight out of the car?

Radials are faster, period.

---

Quote:

---

Anywhere you can take weight out of the car?

Radials are faster, period. 26" tire and 4.10's will be perfect.

---

Quote:

---

Its a gear ratio/ tire calculation. It shows speed at given RPM or RPM at a certain speed.

I input a 26" tire and 4.10's so you could see where you are at. I'd leave the 4.10's

---

Quote:

---

Put a bigger Carb on it with the dual plane. I have found that 850 HP and 825 Mighty Demons work well. The old style 950 HP seems to work well also. We've run them with 2" spacers on many engines like yours.

***Edit****
I missed you are limited to the 750 carb. The only other thing I'd suggest is picking up a 750 off a Comp Racer maybe.

---

Quote:

---

The headers are probably holding back 20ish HP. I'd go with TTI step headers personally. Keep the AirGap you need the midrange torque. Don't go any less than 5000 on the converter. Low 11s should be very realistic.

---

Quote:

---

Here is what I have so far

365ci, cast crank, 10.25:1cr, SRP forged flat tops, Scat I beams (has to run on 94 pump)
RHS heads ported 290 .600lift int, 212 exh
Hughes 1.6 rockers
Air gap intake (have no problem changing it out for a single plane)
750cfm carb- I am limited to this size for the class I am running.
1-5/8 headers (wondering if I need to go up, or if I should stay as is for torque), 3" x pipe exhaust with bullets and dumps
26" ET streets or radials and 4.10's (did some calcs and going to the 26 from my 4.10's and 28's will be close to a 4.30 ratio- think I could leave it and see if it e/ts in the low 11's/high 10's?)
904 with a low gear set, converter undecided, but probably 5000+
3400lbs with me in it, caltracs

Cam so far is a solid flat tappet looking like 247/257 at .050", 586/610 lift, 108 with 3 advanced ground in (105 ICL)

What do you guys think, can it be done??? are low 11's in the cards at the very least?

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Here is what I have so far

365ci, cast crank, 10.25:1cr, SRP forged flat tops, Scat I beams (has to run on 94 pump)
RHS heads ported 290 .600lift int, 212 exh
Hughes 1.6 rockers
Air gap intake (have no problem changing it out for a single plane)
750cfm carb- I am limited to this size for the class I am running.
1-5/8 headers (wondering if I need to go up, or if I should stay as is for torque), 3" x pipe exhaust with bullets and dumps
26" ET streets or radials and 4.10's (did some calcs and going to the 26 from my 4.10's and 28's will be close to a 4.30 ratio- think I could leave it and see if it e/ts in the low 11's/high 10's?)
904 with a low gear set, converter undecided, but probably 5000+
3400lbs with me in it, caltracs

Cam so far is a solid flat tappet looking like 247/257 at .050", 586/610 lift, 108 with 3 advanced ground in (105 ICL)

What do you guys think, can it be done??? are low 11's in the cards at the very least?

---

OU812 did some testing with headers and the TTI 1 5/8"-1 3/4" step made very good power. Straight 1 5/8 will definitely hurt. 1 7/8 may be too big, but it's usually better to stay a little on the conservative side.

Your combo has good potential as I've been fast with less footbraking! High 1.40 60's, 7.0's in the 1/8 and 11.20's in the 1/4.

Stock stroke 360 with unported RHS/Indy heads, O-deck flattops with approx 63-64cc heads (about 10.5-1) .474" lift with actually a bit more duration, Holley Strip Dom. intake, 1" 4 hole tapered spacer & Holley 750. 904, 2.71 low, 5,300+ actual flash converter, 4.86 gears with 30"x9" Hoosier lightweight radial slicks ................at 3,540+ lbs! There is more in it but not quite sure if I can hit 10's if I pull out all the stops in VG air.

You gotta do some fine-tuning too - crank scraper, I think the newer all-aluminum Holley carbs work better than the old versions (but test a lot with jets, squirters and pumpcams), Amsoil synthetics throughout, the 3" x-pipe helped me a bit while using Dynomax Ultra-Flo's. I do shift around 67-68 & go through at a bit more. A dual plane might be better if you don't go with more gear, but it worked better for my combo. More gear with a taller tire will yield better, more consistent results - provides a little more rubber on the track and the extra "leverage" may help a bit.

An Autometer playback tach is a valuable tool if you can afford it. I've learned a lot from it and have seen changes in it, like converter flash, flat spots, rpm drops, etc. when tuning the carb. Optimizing 60's through carb tuning is cheap ET reduction.

As was mentioned earlier, you will need to get it at least into the 10.70's to be able to run 10.90 in bad air.

---

Thanks for the reply! Gives me some hope

Was Brian's testing with the heads on a stock stroke motor, or a stroker? I will have to ask him about this since I am also discussing the combo with him right now as well

That engine combo is very similar to mine- I have ported RHS heads, 64cc so 10.25:1 compression so that I can run 94 pump without issue. My car weighed 3400 with me in it with the Dana- but ditching the back seat, heater, going to monoleafs over the multis, and the switch to the 904 from the 4 speed setup I am hoping will shed some weight (but the cage will add some back ). Im hoping I can get the car down to 3300 with me in it if possible

I am currently running a kevko pan, but no scraper or windage tray. Is there a company out there that makes a good scraper? I currently have the Holley 750 street HP, and have thought about getting a different carb (I am limited to the 750) but not sure how much difference there is between the race and street versions though. I am running a 3" exhaust already with x pipe, going from Borla XR-1's to bullets- only real difference should be weight and the more hellacious sound

Unfortunately I am limited to the 26" tire for the class- I would rather keep my 28's since I feel they look better, not to mention the better foot print. All the calcs I have done are showing the 26" tire from the 28 with 4.10's would be like running a 4.30 gear with the 28's, so im hoping that will help out as well- I am willing to change if I will need a ton more for sure, but I am thinking of leaving it as is,and if after first testing I need more gear, order a set and install them.

I actually just sold my tach to a friend as funds towards purchasing a playback tach. I think that it could definitely be a help as well. For converter, I will go with whatever stall it needs, not too worried anymore about it being too big for the street.

The class right now is a high ten (10.9 at best so far) heads upclass, but if I can run 11 flat, I think I will be competitive enough to atleast have some fun. Although it is heads up, they are implementing some restrictions so the class does not get away from itself

Quote:

---

If you put a 5000+ converter in it, does it matter what it makes for tq at 3500?

The tti headers will make more midrange tq. At 5K+ there isn't going to be much difference between the tti steps or 1 3/4" super comps. Either of those headers are going to cost some $.

I know it's not a 360, but it makes the point regarding headers. See test one and two. Not much difference in the two set ups. If fit is a concern then you make a choice based upon that consideration.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccr...seline_1_2.html


A 1.8 throttle plate allows for a 1 3/4" 850 baseplate which should allow for a 4150 950+ mainbody.

---

Hey Rob, thanks for chiming in

Because I am new to the automatic stuff, I really don't know all much about them. Im assuming with a 5000 stall the car will stay pretty much, what, above 4000k throughout the pass even after shifts?

If that is the case, which I never even though of, would not a single plane be of benefit for the higher rpms, as well as the bigger headers? Yes, both the hookers and TTI's are costly, but the hookers are still more affordable, not to mention there are alot more used hookers kicking around (gosh that sounds wrong ) than TTI's from what I have seen.

In that test Brian did with the stroker the stepped headers were better, but what can I conclude for that in my motor?

As for the carb, the whole 950 not being a true 950 carb has always confused me. Here are the rules for carburetors word for word

CARBURETORS: Any standard design type carburetor up to, and including 750-cfm, with a maximum throttle blade size of 1.800” permitted. Standard performance carburetor modifications permitted, including removal of air horn, internal and external modifications. Split carburetor prohibited.

Also, the class is more than likely going to be a pump gas only class, which should keep things more realistically competitive for a heads up deal.

If I can get the best engine combo and converter sorted out now, and then after testing if I need more gear just swap that, it would be ideal

Quote:

---

IMO, you wouldn't notice any difference between either header because when you hit it, the engine goes right by the range where the tti were a lot better 3-4K. With a 5k+ converter the engine should never be running below flash speed anyways. Makes the 3-4K numbers unimportant.

Another thing on headers. I've never seen the huge gains that some people spout about on decent hp 400-500 sb's. One was in the 40hp range on a 450hp engine... never seen that myself. I have seen this progression on a 450hp 360. Baseline with Hookers 1 5/8, dougs + 4, super comps +9, tti +9.

I would not put a 1 7/8" header on your car.

The carb thing is the baseplate has a 1.75" plate and the venturi size is 1.375 or something like that on a 950hp. If the baseplate has a 1.75 plate, you can open up the venturi size, which = more cfm... Look the holley numerical listing and see how that works for baseplate/venturi and ratings. Especially in the 4776-4780 and 4781 numbers.

http://www.holley.com/data/TechService/Technical/Carb%20Numerical%20Listing.pdf

---