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Re: Bruno
[Re: mopartoby]
#1284042
08/12/12 02:46 PM
08/12/12 02:46 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,421
in a chair
mopartony
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,421
in a chair
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My current build is using a bruno and Liberty Extreme.
The only down fall I am hearing about is you need to use the trans brake to put the trans in gear. But not sure if that is for all or just the Liberty.
EDIT: I am also using a Browell bellhousing. Bruno only makes bell housings for Chevy.
Last edited by mopartony; 08/12/12 02:47 PM.
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Re: Bruno
[Re: mopartony]
#1284046
08/12/12 10:16 PM
08/12/12 10:16 PM
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 588
Franklin, TN
23T Hemmee
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 588
Franklin, TN
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Quote:
The only down fall I am hearing about is you need to use the trans brake to put the trans in gear. But not sure if that is for all or just the Liberty.
Tony,
You have to use the trans-brake to stop the input/output shaft from rotating, just as you would use a clutch to put a manual tranny in gear. In the Lenco's case, the reverser is the mechanical part of the unit as the slider gear/shaft has to mesh with main drive coming out of the forward Lenco units. Impossible if the unit is rotating. I'm assuming a Liberty is a straight gear unit like a conventional manual tranny so the same would apply. I've had a few snags with mine, most of which I attribute to buying a used piece, but pretty well have everything straigtened out. Two major problems, one was having the apply piston pushrod jumping out of the detent on the apply band and cocking the band on the drum, burning the band up. Its a little tricky but I was able to secure the band enough in my end mill to plunge cut about .150" deeper detent, havn't had any more issues there. I suppose a carefully applied die grinder with a small rounded tip could do the same thing, possibly better. Other problem, I was having trouble with the electric solenoid that plunges the teflon poppet solenoid to seal the air system that applies the brake. Turns out my little 4-wheeler battery didn't have enough amperage to give the solenoid what it needed to seal 200+ pounds of air pressure consistently, a problem that usually reared its ugly head in the staging lanes. Bigger battery, problem solved, seems simple fix now, just wished I could have figured it out sooner, would still have most of my hair...... 
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Re: Bruno
[Re: gillman34]
#1284048
08/13/12 11:44 AM
08/13/12 11:44 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,421
in a chair
mopartony
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,421
in a chair
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Hate for this to turn into a hijacking of a good thread. But can not let the info go with out a question or 2. Quote:
Tony,
You have to use the trans-brake to stop the input/output shaft from rotating, just as you would use a clutch to put a manual tranny in gear. In the Lenco's case, the reverser is the mechanical part of the unit as the slider gear/shaft has to mesh with main drive coming out of the forward Lenco units. Impossible if the unit is rotating. I'm assuming a Liberty is a straight gear unit like a conventional manual tranny so the same would apply. I've had a few snags with mine, most of which I attribute to buying a used piece, but pretty well have everything straigtened out. Two major problems, one was having the apply piston pushrod jumping out of the detent on the apply band and cocking the band on the drum, burning the band up. Its a little tricky but I was able to secure the band enough in my end mill to plunge cut about .150" deeper detent, havn't had any more issues there. I suppose a carefully applied die grinder with a small rounded tip could do the same thing, possibly better. Other problem, I was having trouble with the electric solenoid that plunges the teflon poppet solenoid to seal the air system that applies the brake. Turns out my little 4-wheeler battery didn't have enough amperage to give the solenoid what it needed to seal 200+ pounds of air pressure consistently, a problem that usually reared its ugly head in the staging lanes. Bigger battery, problem solved, seems simple fix now, just wished I could have figured it out sooner, would still have most of my hair......
Thanks for that heads up on the snags. Always good to know who has blazed the path before I start down the same path blind...
The Bruno I picked up was used but came out of a running car and had no issues. So I hope I do not have to play the die grinder/end mill game.  That and the Liberty is new so I can hope that the only issues I have are that I need to change the input shaft on the Liberty from 32 to 6, cheaper than changing the bruno to 32 from 6($1400 vs restocking fee on the shafts about $20). Then the pilot on the new input shaft did not fit the pilot bushing/bearing in the bruno...  Those are the only issues I have see so far. The motor I am running will have an alt and big battery so I am not worried about the air.
Quote:
I have a Bruno/Liberty Extreme in my car for about 3 years now.
It works flawlessly,much less parasitic loss than a Lenco.
Yes, you must use the trans brake to put the Liberty in gear,just like stepping on the clutch.
Bruno Drive fluid temps will scare you(275+) but are not a durability issue,just change the fluid often.Other than that,pretty simple.
How often do you change the fluid? Does the trans come out of gear when you let off the gas? Any issues getting the car out of gear after the burnout?
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Re: Bruno
[Re: mopartony]
#1284049
08/13/12 08:43 PM
08/13/12 08:43 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 614
new jersey
gillman34
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 614
new jersey
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Quote:
Hate for this to turn into a hijacking of a good thread. But can not let the info go with out a question or 2.
Quote:
Tony,
You have to use the trans-brake to stop the input/output shaft from rotating, just as you would use a clutch to put a manual tranny in gear. In the Lenco's case, the reverser is the mechanical part of the unit as the slider gear/shaft has to mesh with main drive coming out of the forward Lenco units. Impossible if the unit is rotating. I'm assuming a Liberty is a straight gear unit like a conventional manual tranny so the same would apply. I've had a few snags with mine, most of which I attribute to buying a used piece, but pretty well have everything straigtened out. Two major problems, one was having the apply piston pushrod jumping out of the detent on the apply band and cocking the band on the drum, burning the band up. Its a little tricky but I was able to secure the band enough in my end mill to plunge cut about .150" deeper detent, havn't had any more issues there. I suppose a carefully applied die grinder with a small rounded tip could do the same thing, possibly better. Other problem, I was having trouble with the electric solenoid that plunges the teflon poppet solenoid to seal the air system that applies the brake. Turns out my little 4-wheeler battery didn't have enough amperage to give the solenoid what it needed to seal 200+ pounds of air pressure consistently, a problem that usually reared its ugly head in the staging lanes. Bigger battery, problem solved, seems simple fix now, just wished I could have figured it out sooner, would still have most of my hair......
Thanks for that heads up on the snags. Always good to know who has blazed the path before I start down the same path blind...
The Bruno I picked up was used but came out of a running car and had no issues. So I hope I do not have to play the die grinder/end mill game. That and the Liberty is new so I can hope that the only issues I have are that I need to change the input shaft on the Liberty from 32 to 6, cheaper than changing the bruno to 32 from 6($1400 vs restocking fee on the shafts about $20). Then the pilot on the new input shaft did not fit the pilot bushing/bearing in the bruno... Those are the only issues I have see so far. The motor I am running will have an alt and big battery so I am not worried about the air.
Quote:
I have a Bruno/Liberty Extreme in my car for about 3 years now.
It works flawlessly,much less parasitic loss than a Lenco.
Yes, you must use the trans brake to put the Liberty in gear,just like stepping on the clutch.
Bruno Drive fluid temps will scare you(275+) but are not a durability issue,just change the fluid often.Other than that,pretty simple.
How often do you change the fluid? Does the trans come out of gear when you let off the gas? Any issues getting the car out of gear after the burnout?
I change the fluid even 15-20 passes depending on how hot it got and for how long.I use John Deere hydrostatic fluid and check the color,I change it when it starts to darken.
Yes,the trans neutrals when you lift off the throttle,it's designed that way,you must stop and apply the trans brake to get it back in gear.Driving around the pits you must keep your hand on the shifter holding it in gear or it will pop out.
No problem with the burnout,when you lift and roll out of the burnout it will neutral by itself or you can move the shifter.
I do the burnout in direct (5th) gear,get it up on the tire for 4 seconds and release the lineloc,let it roll out as I'm slowly lifting off the throttle until I feel it grab and then close the throttle and let the car roll a little,stop,hit the trans brake,put it in first and stage the car.This sounds like a lot but,it only takes about 2 car length's to do.Or you can put it in 1st and shift all the way thru across the line and give them a big ole' smokey John Force burnout!!! LOL 
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Re: Bruno
[Re: gillman34]
#1284050
08/14/12 12:57 AM
08/14/12 12:57 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,421
in a chair
mopartony
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,421
in a chair
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Awesome thanks that is what I wanted to know. The class I am building for only allows 4 spds. So No 5th for me... The class also wants you to put on a show. I was thinking start in 3rd with a rolling burnout, kind of like the prostocks do today. But that is a year away or more still. Have a few more parts to collect and some money to save before I get to have fun. 
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Re: Bruno
[Re: mopartoby]
#1284052
08/15/12 01:03 PM
08/15/12 01:03 PM
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 588
Franklin, TN
23T Hemmee
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 588
Franklin, TN
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Choice of tranny is pretty much dependent on type of car/weight/HP/suspension. Like Gillman said, there is less parasitic loss with a Liberty, but a Lenco will work better in a car like mine, solid mount rear, tripod front, big inch blower motor. The only suspension I have is in the rear tires,the Lenco uses planetary gears and clutches like an automatic and the shifts are not as violent as a Liberty or Jerico. Either of those would probably make my car impossible to get down the track but a 4-link door car would be a different story. Eventually though, the more HP you have, will necessitate a Lenco or B&J.
BTW, the only rotating parts in the Bruno are the input/output shaft and the transbrake drum itself, neither of which generate much heat on their own unless the apply band to the drum is slipping. All of the heat is generated by the convertor itself, just like any other convertor equipped tranny. The fluid capacity (in mine approximately 5 quarts with a 10" convertor) of the Bruno, in my opinion is a big reason it seems to generate more heat, or maybe doesn't disapate the heat more quickly in a bracket or round robin situation. Bruno just recently started selling a hi-capacity pan, which coupled with a tranny cooler would be a worthwhile investment.
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Re: Bruno
[Re: mopartoby]
#1284056
08/15/12 04:16 PM
08/15/12 04:16 PM
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,019
Finland
mafo
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,019
Finland
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I m afraid that a liberty will need some maintenance, sliders wear, and if you forget to press the transbrake button before putting it in gear... it needs checking, I don t think it will go even 50 rounds the bruno unit, there where other manufacturer to, pat donovan, api, at least, should be bullet proof, just check the band now and then If you buy an used liberty(like me) ,you need to change high gear slider to one that let the trans go to neutral when you let of the gas,othervise it is hit or miss to get neutral the after burnout, it s a pain in the a** when trans is stuck in high gear when you should be staging
-65 Valiant,420", all motor,2700#, dot tires, 8,42 @ 160,2
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Re: Bruno
[Re: jim sciortino]
#1284058
08/15/12 10:39 PM
08/15/12 10:39 PM
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 298
Shelton, Ct.
572_HEMI_Cuda
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 298
Shelton, Ct.
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Quote:
My buddy has a Bruno/Jeffco in his #3200+ Hemicuda'. It's been 8.40s N/A and is very reliable.
He's a memeber here and will probably chime in, if he sees the thread.
300 plus runs in 2 cars...zero problems.
Like others have said, change fluid often.
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Re: Bruno
[Re: 572_HEMI_Cuda]
#1284059
08/16/12 12:00 AM
08/16/12 12:00 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,421
in a chair
mopartony
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,421
in a chair
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All great info guys!! Thanks. I have one question for Gillman. Ok you said you crack open the case once a year to check things. How tough is that? I have to change the input shaft on the Liberty as it is 32 spline and the bruno is 6. It is also $300 fix on the Liberty vs a $1300 fix on the Bruno.  Any pit falls I should be aware of or is it pretty straight forward?
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Re: Bruno
[Re: gillman34]
#1284060
08/16/12 03:07 AM
08/16/12 03:07 AM
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,019
Finland
mafo
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,019
Finland
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Quote:
I have 3+ years of use on the Liberty and inspect it(open it up) at the end of the year,and have had no wear or worn out parts.The oil in the trans gets changed every 50 or so passes.
Is your trans a extreme or is the newer ones that much better?
mine is a old 4 speed, bought it used 1990, I bet it was already 10 years old then
and Tony, if you get everything back in and it spins, it s correctly assembled
-65 Valiant,420", all motor,2700#, dot tires, 8,42 @ 160,2
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i'll just have to figure out wich one suits me better, lenco, libierty, jerico, etc. thanks for all the replies!!
