When I got this car it was plumbed for the master cylinder on the wrong side. Not knowing, I ordered the correct replacement. Obviously it has the holes on the wrong side. Not able to do the lines at the time, I just ordered the generic Cardone replacement with holes on both sides. It has the right shape.

My car came stock with factory discs. I switched to the MP Brakes kit because my calipers were leaking and I couldn't find anyone to rebuild them at the time (4 years ago), plus pads are easier to get for the A body style brakes. Still have original stuff in garage. Bendix?

Yep, didn't look at the picture closely enough. The disc brake booster is different than the Midland-Ross power drum booster. Not trying to hijack the post, but what is the correct installed finish for the drum booster? As I mentioned, I've seen several that were still wearing the original yellow CAD.

P'dro, by the way, beautiful car.

Lot better than my '67 R/T...

Michael

Thanks for the compliments. I would love a silver B-body. And would take a 4spd over my column auto. This thing cruises like a Caddy though. Real easy to drive.

I still have to do the interior, but everything else has been touched. I left the factory undercoating, which saved the car. A Wisconsin cars without one patch in orig. floors and trunk. Silly.

I am not sure about the brakes, but there is a stock, one owner 67 GTX around here with a gold MC. Owner says it is orig., but that is hard to believe that he just kept rebuilding it all these years.

I am chasing a miss in my new motor. Wires seem square. Will get my distributor recurved by Don at FBO, but I think the new paint in engine compartment may have led to a poor ground for chrome ECU hid under battery.

As regards you "miss", Definately make shure you have a good ground on not only the chrome box, but ANYTHING that grounds to the engine bay after paint. My car did fine after assembly, at first. Then, miles from home, it refused to start. After chasing my tail for several weeks, I put a jumper wire from neg batt to solenoid and WALA! Lesson learned, ALWAYS use star washers beween freshly painted surfaces and ANYTHING that requires a ground.

So I added a few wire looms and ran a ground wire from ECU mounting screw to - wire on battery and the miss is gone. Next step to send distributor to FBO for a recurve and get correct 4327s Carter restored.

Does anyone reading this kow the best place to by the choke control that is mounted in the intake (for the orig. carb?)

If you have your original choke I can restore it as well as the carb, no extra cost for the choke.

another

Yes, not a problem.....I've worked with a lot worse!

Should run just fine in your climate built to stock specs. Be careful packing it, I raccomend double boxing as it's metal but it's cast metal and will break if slammed against something hard. BTW that tag looks like a couple more bends and it will break off.

Will do. I ship a lot of stuff and have plenty of bubble wrap. What gaskets are recommended to go back on with the Carter? Is there some Bakelite thing?