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Re: Door alignment driving me MAD!
[Re: frank]
#1264954
07/09/12 09:53 PM
07/09/12 09:53 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 454 Ashville, Manitoba, Canada
superbeeman69
super street
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super street
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 454
Ashville, Manitoba, Canada
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Theyre heavy gutted never mind loaded with glass, regulator and trim. Especially e body doors. You gotta get an extra set of hands sometimes. Time to call in a favor! Preferably someone with patience if they aren't a body guy!
1970 FM3 Coronet 440, 1971 FJ6 Dude D100
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Re: Door alignment driving me MAD!
[Re: superbeeman69]
#1264955
07/09/12 10:00 PM
07/09/12 10:00 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 454 Ashville, Manitoba, Canada
superbeeman69
super street
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super street
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 454
Ashville, Manitoba, Canada
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Easy for me to say I guess as I am a body guy BUT your not doing anything "wrong". When I do collision work, I sometimes take the body side latch off, center my door and reinstall when I'm happy with the fit. Or if you have your fenders off, and can see where your body side latch was installed originally, latch the door and adjust at the hinges/pillar. Sometimes it's a lot of trial and error so makes sense to get an extra set of hands.
1970 FM3 Coronet 440, 1971 FJ6 Dude D100
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Re: Door alignment driving me MAD!
[Re: Publicbottle]
#1264958
07/10/12 12:49 AM
07/10/12 12:49 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 454 Ashville, Manitoba, Canada
superbeeman69
super street
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super street
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 454
Ashville, Manitoba, Canada
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With the latch in, it's not always in the right spot to start with. The factory gaps on these cars weren't great to start with so 9 times out of 10 the door won't be in the same spot that it was when removed. When I adjust a door I always use the "opening" as a reference point unless i know for a fact the body side latch has never moved. I'll center the door until I'm happy with my gaps and then throw my latch back on.
1970 FM3 Coronet 440, 1971 FJ6 Dude D100
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Re: Door alignment driving me MAD!
[Re: Publicbottle]
#1264960
07/10/12 04:54 PM
07/10/12 04:54 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,922 new berlin wisconsin
Mr T2U
master
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master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,922
new berlin wisconsin
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the striker WILL NOT CAUSE THE BOTTOM OF THE DOOR TO PUSH OUT. it has to be out before the striker was installed. the striker allows movement of the door in or out and up or down only. first get the door to fit the opening without the striker on the 1/4 panel. including the flush fit to the 1/4 panel. the adjustment of bottom rear corner of the door in or out, is to move the top hinge to door bolts in or out. you move the top rear corner door in or out by moving the bottom hinge to door bolts in or out. after adjusting the door this way you need to check the fit to the fender. you probably have to adjust those gaps also.
99% of the time the door to fender and the rear or the door 1/4 gaps are never perfect. you will have to compromise somewhere. the only way to get these gaps looking really good is to die grind the bolt holes in the hinge, shim the hinge at the cowl or maybe do some twisting on the door.
also when adjusting these gaps it helps to not have the weatherstrips installed. once you get good gaps, install the weatherstrips and do some minor adjusting to the doors again.
again door gaps are a compromise, they are almost never perfect.
Last edited by Mr T2U; 07/10/12 10:40 PM.
perception is 90% of reality
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