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Broken stud in block - NE1 in Sea/Tac area with welder? #126344
09/26/08 02:06 AM
09/26/08 02:06 AM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,168
Vancouver, WA
MoparMarq Offline OP
super stock
MoparMarq  Offline OP
super stock

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,168
Vancouver, WA
Hey there,

I've got a broken stud in the engine block. It's at the back where the bellhousing bolts on. Fortunately, the engine is out of the car so it's easy access. But a couple of hours a day for the last couple of days with the 5/32 drill bit has gotten a hole maybe a 1/16" deep. I'm thinking the better way is weld on a washer, then a nut, and turn it out.

Got a good washer (thick fender washer with hole just slight smaller than stud size) and a decent nut. Only problem is...I don't own a welder, nor do I know how to weld.

Any help/suggestions here? Anyone want to make some gas money?

TIA,
Marq

Re: Broken stud in block - NE1 in Sea/Tac area with welder? [Re: MoparMarq] #126345
09/26/08 06:49 AM
09/26/08 06:49 AM
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,046
ky.
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kenworth_goose Offline
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K

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ky.
Get a new drill bit that will drill the bolt and than go to the next size up until it comes loose.

Re: Broken stud in block - NE1 in Sea/Tac area with welder? [Re: kenworth_goose] #126346
09/26/08 07:08 AM
09/26/08 07:08 AM
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,820
Arlington, Texas
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bobby66 Offline
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bobby66  Offline
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Arlington, Texas
Start the pilot hole with a smaller bit, 1/16 or so and work up from there. Go slow and dont break the bit. You'll be fine.

Re: Broken stud in block - update... [Re: MoparMarq] #126347
09/26/08 05:21 PM
09/26/08 05:21 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,168
Vancouver, WA
MoparMarq Offline OP
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MoparMarq  Offline OP
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Vancouver, WA
I thought about continuing the drilling saga...

But instead of spending HOURS in the garage fixing something I screwed up (when I'd rather be spending that time with my 4- and 2-year old daughters), I called up a welder locally to weld on a washer to the remainder of the stud.

He shows up at 1:00 pm. Badda bing, badda boom!
The stud is out by 1:30 pm.

Wouldn't do it any other way ever again. (Don't ask what it cost me, but the girls will only be little once - and it's over much too fast.)


pics follow...

4712405-Broken_stud.jpg (61 downloads)
Re: Broken stud in block - update... [Re: MoparMarq] #126348
09/26/08 05:26 PM
09/26/08 05:26 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,168
Vancouver, WA
MoparMarq Offline OP
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MoparMarq  Offline OP
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Vancouver, WA
Pic above is after 4 hours of slow drilling (and 3 bits and plenty of cutting oil.)

Pic below is stud removed after the washer was welded on. Undoubtedly, the heat from the weld helped loosen the stud in the block. We didn't even have to weld a nut to get a satisfactory purchase on the washer. Vise clamps did the trick.

Re: Broken stud in block - update... [Re: MoparMarq] #126349
09/26/08 05:31 PM
09/26/08 05:31 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,168
Vancouver, WA
MoparMarq Offline OP
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MoparMarq  Offline OP
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Vancouver, WA
Good as new.

Now to make sure my torque wrench is properly calibrated. The "click" is not as noticeable as it once was...

If you've got a welder and a modicum of skills, this was the way to do it, no question. WAY easier!

Re: Broken stud in block - update... [Re: MoparMarq] #126350
09/26/08 05:42 PM
09/26/08 05:42 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,610
md
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mopars4ever Offline
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md
Be careful bolting the bell housing back on. It may crack since the surface is uneven.

Re: Broken stud in block - update... [Re: mopars4ever] #126351
09/26/08 08:13 PM
09/26/08 08:13 PM
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 11,543
chicagoland,usa
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buildanother Offline
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chicagoland,usa
I've seen a few blocks with that off-machined area, may be factory. That bolt looks like it may have been on the long side, don't it?

Re: Broken stud in block - update... [Re: mopars4ever] #126352
09/26/08 09:57 PM
09/26/08 09:57 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,168
Vancouver, WA
MoparMarq Offline OP
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MoparMarq  Offline OP
super stock

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,168
Vancouver, WA
Quote:

Be careful bolting the bell housing back on. It may crack since the surface is uneven.




That's not an illusion. It is uneven. But it's machined that way, and the low surface part is beyond the bolt center. The bottom bolt on the same side has the same look. It appears specifically made that way to accommodate a starter gap plate made of probably .030" or .040" sheet metal stock.

With the bellhousing back on, without the bolts being torqued, the bellhousing fits flush and clean against the block, with the allowance for the starter gap plate.







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