Hi,

I'm building a .060 over 340 stroker and plan to run it in a Tradesman SWB Van. Is there a Windage Tray designed to fit a 4" crank?

Planned use is mainly street but the foundational machining and parts will provide the option for HP use.

Here's what I have done so far:

1. 1973 340 Block: Line honed. Currently waiting on 4.100 Forged Pistons from Diamond. Then, hone bores accordingly.

2. Plan to use Scat's Forged crank and H-Beam Rods

3. Total Seal Rings, Clevite H/Bearings

4. Eddy 340 heads

Piston speed will increase due to the larger stroke and will create more crankcase windage. Literature says the MP SB windage tray is NOT compatable with stroker cranks. Therefore, I've ruled this part out.

I've discovered 2 oil pans that I can use here:

1. Milodon Pan # 30980- This pan (Milodon CLAIMS) that tray #32230 WILL fit the 4" crank.

2. Canton Pan # 11-502. (This is a Road Race Pan) but it has a Rear Sump which fits my application. Summit Racing advertises it with a windage tray, however the Canton website gives NO Technical information on this tray.

Can anyone give their thoughts on this issue? Experience building and running a Stroker SB Mopar would be beneficial here.

Thanks, Chris

If you use arp main studs, and use the set with the long studs to position the tray at the height you want it you can modify the mopar unit.

This is just the rough work in this pic. But I even got to cut out for the four bolt caps.

The lower edge gets squared up and I drill and tap 3 small allen head screws on the inner pan rail spaced evenly and when tight on the studs the edges of the w tray sit on the 3 screws and with the deep pan its like a light pressed fit, I tap my pan on with my palm.

Im sure though it might be easier to buy the correct one but hey if ya got one and some time....

You might consider a good pan with the right baffels? in it and if its going in a van, not a strip or road race van is it? I would almost skip it if its going to be a big hassle.

Good Luck...

A57 RT,

Thank you for your suggestion. Your idea sounds like a good plan and had I not already performed the line hone with main bolts, I would probably go forward and do it. I realize now that I made an error in the planning stage by not using main studs for use with a windage tray. However,there is still time to see how your suggestions may be applied regarding the part modifications. I'll look into it.

There are still some tricks available that can be utilized to compensate for a lack of a windage tray. Although I've yet to try it, Jim Szilagyi, author of "How to build BIG-INCH Mopar Small Blocks", recommends using the Moroso Deep Pan. He claims that it's usage can net up to 42 HP compared to a stock 360 pan without a windage tray. Unfortunately, he provides no ducumentation to his claim. Also, Moroso doesn't have a Deep Pan for Rear Sump 318/340, which is what I need.

The Milodon 30980 pan seems the most sensible for now. The depth at the sump measures 10.750" and roughly covers 1/3 of the overall crankcase length. I'm not sure how bad the remaining 2/3 open area would have an effect on windage but I estimate using this pan would be much better than using the stock (Truck/Van 318) Oil Pan that measures (I'm estimating here)7.500".

It will be a "driver" but a rather nasty one.