What do you guys have to say? Done them from the top, never from the bottom. I can see from how the bottom would make for a more "elegant" job, but it is worth the hassle building a dolly, dealing with the suspension, etc? During mock up I did it all myself with transmission attached. Block was bare with heads and intake to test header fit. But now the car is painted.

383/mopar performance covers/TTI headers/4-speed/alterktion front end.

Otherwise, I will need to install the engine and the trans separate if going in from the top. I might be able to install them together, but would likely need to remove the acessories off the engine (might be a good idea anyway... I know..)

Any tips for a bottom install?

Thanks.

Up untill my compleat "car" rebuild, I've never put one in from the bottom. Got damn good at doing it from the top, by myself, in a short time. But after putting it in from the bottom, I must say, it was a lot easier. Would I do it if I hadn't done the whole car over, I doubt it. But it was easier.
Good luck,

Ive heard that its easier from the bottom but then you need an alignment, and what about the brakes they would need to be bled.

It's so much easier to do it from the bottom. I don't do it any other way.

Andy, how much of the suspension is together? Assuming it's all together, pull the rotor and unbolt the spindle from the lower ball joint. Then drop the k-member with lower control arms and strut rods attached. A dolly makes it easier or you can go to your local HF and get their heaviest furniture dolly and use a floor jack to support the trans.

The first time I put the 440/4sp in my old Dart hardtop I used three floor jacks and no dolly...

there are a couple videos on you tube showing the procedure.

Ditto to elitecustombody"s response.

Sounds like you have the suspension out anyway so you are there!

Suggestions...install the headers and as much as you can.

The suspension is all together but the front end has never been aligned.

Biggest pain would be that I ran the pass side front brake line across the front of the k-member instead of across the firewall.

Front bumper is off. Do I need to make custom brackets to lift from, what do you use as a lift point? I would just use the cherry picker to lift the front of the car.

For some reason it seems like it might be a challenge to get the 4 k-frame bolts to line up and I worry about that. Dropping the car over the engine/trans seems like if there is a few degrees of misalignment will cause issues.

Definitely would have the headers, etc. all setup.

We just swapped engines in mine and did it from the top...but used a LOAD LEVELER. You can crank it and tilt the engine at any angle. That's key. Without it, I would not do it that way. But it made it so easy. I unbolted the engine & trans mounts and out she came. Went back in very easy also. I can't imagine how unbolting the entire front end and lifting the car four feet in the air can be easier than that. Just my experience.

I can't imagine how pulling it out the bottom could be any easier. I've pulled mine a couple times with and without the trans. Never had any help, never had to align it, never had to bleed the brakes, or build a dolly, or find a way to lift my car. Only thing I needed was a friend to help pull the hood, and reinstall. I didn't even consider going from the bottom when the car was completely disassembled...

As mentioned though, a load leveler is a cheap necessity.

just my