We finally dialed in our bell housing for our coronet project.

It was tedious but we got it within spec with some offset dowels.

It is a 69 coronet with a 440 and a keisler 5 speed conversion.
We have the clutch, bellhousing, and transmission all in in place.

My question is about the starter. We have a snout adapter for the starter, but the holes for installation will not line up unless we modify (read: grind) the SFI approved bellhousing, or grind the starter itself.

We have the mini starter and the stock gear reduction unit and both have interference and will not fit.

I assume we have the right hole for the snout adapter, which is the inner hole towards the flywheel. The outer hold appears to be for the bigger flywheel, and with our current set up would not engage the flywheel teeth.

I know we are not the first to encounter this, but it is our first time messing with this kind of thing.

What are we doing wrong?
This is the bellhousing like the one we have right now.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Lakewood/620/15335/10002/-1

Here is up close. We figure the inner (closer to flywheel) is the one to use. We have a starter snout adapter as well (not installed in this picture)

starter hole. "X" marks the interference spot

This is the part of the starter which hits the bellhousing.

I am sure there is answer to this, I am just new to this.

Is this bellhousing supposed to be used with a bigger flywheel?
If so, then why even drill holes for other options?

I suppose we could always push start and pop the clutch to start the engine, although that may be rough during initial break in.... ]

eight

A little more background;

We bought this whole kit from a friend who ended up not wanting it for his project.

there are all kinds of parts, but instructions are scarce (some papers are missing)

I know there is an adapter for the starter, which we have, but not quite seeing how it all works.

Any pictures you guys have of this adapter to make the starter work would be great.

Thanks!

Eightlitermopar

I ASSume you have a 130 tooth flywheel? On my duster there is an adapter, kind of an L-shaped piece that has a dowel on it and goes into the lower starter hole. It is attached by the lower bellhousing bolt tha goes all of the way through the block. Meaning there is no lower starter bolt used. I also do not use the cup piece in the bell that supports the snout of the starter. The top bolt goes in the inside bolt hole. Mine works fine this way.

Thanks for the reply,

Yes, I do have the 130 tooth flywheel.

I remember seeing that adapter piece and thinking ?

I know there was also a round ring about the circumference of the starter....is this supposed to be used as well?

thanks again for the info, I will look at this and get it right.

Thanks again!!

eight

You may have to stack a small washer between the block and the starter adapter to get to sit flush against the block like I did. The large ring is to adapt the the bearing retainer on the trans to the inside of the bell. The one you have will have the large 5.1xx size hole (O.D. 833) and is actually for a truck application but will work in a car also. You should have some sort of ring on your bearing retainer to fit this bell.

I dont use the snout support because the snout on my mini starter is broken off. Its been this way for ever and I have not got around to fixing it. Seems to work fine tho.

Mine works fine with a 143 tooth w/the "cup" in the outer hole. Always assumed the inner cup hole was for a 130 tooth wheel...Any mid 90's Dakota starter will work.

There is a knockout piece on the blockplate that has to be removed for the 143 T - flywheel.

It looks like your has it already removed. It shouldn't be a issue.

I have used a 130 T flywheel with the finger adapter and a 143 tooth flywheel with the MP lighweight starter with no problems.

Without the cup adapter installed maybe there is enough slop in the bolt holes to cause the starter to drop.

It is a tight fit.

130T inner hole w/ finger adapter - 143 T outer hole.

Quality Control on those shields isn't the best - especially the 1 piece units.

The cup for the starter should move the starter out far enough to eliminate the interference. I would think it would move it out close to 1/4"

Thanks for the help guys. I most likely won't be messing with it for another week or so, I've got work and some other stuff to deal with before then.

Does anyone have a picture of the the starter adapter set up? The two dimensional instructions baffle me, although I am sure I can figure it out.

Thanks again!

Eight