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Continuing with the troubleshooting... distributor... #1237604
05/22/12 12:25 PM
05/22/12 12:25 PM
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Sacramento, CA
cal_gecko Offline OP
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OK.. so I could have SWORN that I installed a Pertronix ignitor module inside the distributor on my Dart about 8 yrs ago .. today I went out to continue with my troubleshooting, to try to figure out why the car doesn't want to idle properly.. opened up the distributor cap, I was going to test for low voltage at idle... and I noticed the inside of the distributor appears to be the stock Electronic Ignition magnetic pickup... NOT the Ignitor module... can anyone either confirm or deny this for me?

7216626-photo1.JPG (149 downloads)
Last edited by Cal_Gecko; 05/23/12 03:14 AM.
Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor... [Re: cal_gecko] #1237605
05/22/12 12:27 PM
05/22/12 12:27 PM
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Sacramento, CA
cal_gecko Offline OP
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without the rotor

7216629-photo2.JPG (155 downloads)
Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor... [Re: cal_gecko] #1237606
05/22/12 12:33 PM
05/22/12 12:33 PM
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Garden Grove, CA
OzHemi Offline
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Correct, that is a stock style electronic setup (looks new?)

Be sure and check the air gap on it with a non-magnetic feeler guage.

Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor... [Re: OzHemi] #1237607
05/22/12 12:43 PM
05/22/12 12:43 PM
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Sacramento, CA
cal_gecko Offline OP
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I may have replaced it way back when... in an effort to troubleshoot the idle issue.. I"m not sure. So.. I've got this wired to the MSD 6AL box, to the coil. Not using the Chrysler ignition module box (per MSD instructions)... and I'm using an MSD Blaster 2 coil.

So - to check the air gap .. what should the measurement be? can I just use a credit card to set the gap? Or is that not the proper measurement?

Also - what are the best ways to troubleshoot the ignition system to ensure it is providing adequate spark at idle?

Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor... [Re: OzHemi] #1237608
05/22/12 12:45 PM
05/22/12 12:45 PM
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JohnRR Offline
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Quote:

Correct, that is a stock style electronic setup (looks new?)

Be sure and check the air gap on it with a non-magnetic feeler guage.






Mark are you still having the idle problem ?

I was digging thru my box of distributor parts and came across a bag with the electronics guts from a smallblock distributor that I parted out and was going to send them to you , no need now .

Check to see if that has the adjustable mechanical advance, I don't think it does from what I can see, if it doesn't keep your initial timing to about 8 degrees max. the one I have that is non adjustable had a 13 on it so that is 26 degrees of mechanical advance.

Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor... [Re: cal_gecko] #1237609
05/22/12 12:48 PM
05/22/12 12:48 PM
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Its a TRAP!
DARTH V8Я Offline
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Its a TRAP!
.006"-.008" for the airgap (matchbook cover thickness aprox, but buy/borrow some brass feeler gauges). Adequate spark would be 20000v+ at the gap, which should be aprox .035-.045".


When it takes more than a sweet mullet to prove you rule at the trailer park..
Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor... [Re: cal_gecko] #1237610
05/22/12 12:48 PM
05/22/12 12:48 PM
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JohnRR Offline
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Quote:

I may have replaced it way back when... in an effort to troubleshoot the idle issue.. I"m not sure. So.. I've got this wired to the MSD 6AL box, to the coil. Not using the Chrysler ignition module box (per MSD instructions)... and I'm using an MSD Blaster 2 coil.

So - to check the air gap .. what should the measurement be? can I just use a credit card to set the gap? Or is that not the proper measurement?

Also - what are the best ways to troubleshoot the ignition system to ensure it is providing adequate spark at idle?




the gap is .006 , credit card is to thick , you can get a brass feeler gauge set for cheap money at the local parts store , they have just a brass set with 3 or 4 sizes for about $10 or so ...

What are you using for a ballast resistor ? Blastor 2 coil could be run without a ballast I think ...

Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor... [Re: JohnRR] #1237611
05/22/12 12:50 PM
05/22/12 12:50 PM
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Sacramento, CA
cal_gecko Offline OP
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JohnRR - yeah, still having idle problems..

I'll see if I can pull the distributor out to get a better photo to help identify whether it has adjustable mech. advance.. I have no idea. Like I said, this would have been purchased (by me) about 8 years ago or so .. probably as a 'rebuilt' unit at an auto parts store, I don't remember.

Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor... [Re: cal_gecko] #1237612
05/22/12 12:52 PM
05/22/12 12:52 PM
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JohnRR Offline
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Quote:

JohnRR - yeah, still having idle problems..
Like I said, this would have been purchased (by me) about 8 years ago or so .. probably as a 'rebuilt' unit at an auto parts store, I don't remember.




That tells me it's not the adjustable unit . don't pull it out unless you need to .

Now you need to borrow another carb .

what do you have the timing set at now ?

Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor... [Re: cal_gecko] #1237613
05/22/12 12:55 PM
05/22/12 12:55 PM
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Finally a HUSKER again
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I agree with John, Get a nice cheapo set of brass guages and check it that way, also IIRC you can run a blaster coil WO a ballast, I know I did and not let any smoke out of the charging system.

Hope ya get it soon Cal, DEEP BREATHS, goosfraba, goosfraba, goosfraba.......


Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor... [Re: Moparnut426] #1237614
05/22/12 01:05 PM
05/22/12 01:05 PM
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Sacramento, CA
cal_gecko Offline OP
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No ballast resistor - I remember that the Blaster 2 could be run without the ballast. You don't think I need to check for voltage to the ignition system at idle? I think I've got the idle timing set right now around 20 or so.. but I was more focused yesterday on just trying to get it to idle better, without even worrying about what the numbers were.. but it was still not happy at anything much less than 1000 rpm.

Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor... [Re: cal_gecko] #1237615
05/22/12 01:09 PM
05/22/12 01:09 PM
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Garden Grove, CA
OzHemi Offline
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The MSD box and coil together should give you a plenty hot spark..

Double check the gap in the distributor, and wonder if the MSD was hooked up backwards if it would give similar issues? (the trigger wires to the distributor that is)

Once you get the ignition side of things checked for sure and can see you have a nice hot spark, then move on to checking carb maybe, etc...

(When I ran the 6AL and MSD coil on my Oz Charger, I could lay a plug wire on the valve cover with no plug in it, and you could see the spark jump from inside the wire to the valve cover.)

Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor... [Re: OzHemi] #1237616
05/22/12 01:14 PM
05/22/12 01:14 PM
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Sacramento, CA
cal_gecko Offline OP
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for reference, here's a better shot of the top of the distributor.

I'll swing over to the auto parts store on my way in to work in a bit, and pick up some brass feeler gauges. I'm guessing my steel ones won't work accurately with the magnet

Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor... [Re: cal_gecko] #1237617
05/22/12 01:22 PM
05/22/12 01:22 PM
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Sacramento, CA
cal_gecko Offline OP
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I can tell, just by looking at what the .006 steel feeler gauge looks like, that the gap in my distributor is far more than that.

Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor... [Re: cal_gecko] #1237618
05/22/12 01:25 PM
05/22/12 01:25 PM
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Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1 Offline
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This is what a MP mallory distributer looks like inside, yours is stock which is fine. But it will need some welding done inside if your running much valve duration because you will need more intial timing and less overall(total timing).

You feel sure you got the vacuum leak fixed at the manifold/head?

Still keeping you in mind, going to be in Sacramento here soon.


Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor... [Re: cal_gecko] #1237619
05/22/12 01:26 PM
05/22/12 01:26 PM
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Cincinnati, Ohio
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Quote:

I can tell, just by looking at what the .006 steel feeler gauge looks like, that the gap in my distributor is far more than that.




Good because it should be .007"

Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor... [Re: Challenger 1] #1237620
05/22/12 01:28 PM
05/22/12 01:28 PM
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Garden Grove, CA
OzHemi Offline
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I can take a picture of my brass feeler gauges, and you could hold it up to a picture of your distributor, and see if the gap looks correct.

Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor... [Re: cal_gecko] #1237621
05/22/12 01:42 PM
05/22/12 01:42 PM
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JohnRR Offline
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Quote:

I can tell, just by looking at what the .006 steel feeler gauge looks like, that the gap in my distributor is far more than that.





This would affect how it runs , plus get that timing dialed back once you get the gap set.

Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor... [Re: cal_gecko] #1237622
05/22/12 01:44 PM
05/22/12 01:44 PM
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JohnRR Offline
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Quote:

for reference, here's a better shot of the top of the distributor.

I'll swing over to the auto parts store on my way in to work in a bit, and pick up some brass feeler gauges. I'm guessing my steel ones won't work accurately with the magnet




That is the non adjustable unit .

Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor... [Re: JohnRR] #1237623
05/22/12 01:56 PM
05/22/12 01:56 PM
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RobX4406 Offline
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Quote:

plus get that timing dialed back once you get the gap set.




WRONG!!!

Fix/weld the mechanical advance plate so the engine can have the proper initial.

Carry on

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