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Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor...
[Re: JohnRR]
#1237644
05/23/12 02:00 PM
05/23/12 02:00 PM
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,890
Oregon
hooziewhatsit
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,890
Oregon
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It's still not idling as smooth as I would expect, especially based on some other videos I've seen posted of 360's with this same cam. Also, I'm not understanding how/why it will idle the BEST with 30 degrees advance
You need to bring the RPM up and see what the timing is doing! If it keeps advancing you are going to have a huge problem when it tries to run with almost 60 degrees advance , nevermind when the vacuum can starts adding more ...
heres something dumb I didn't ask , can you see the springs on the advance weights when you look down inside the distributor ?
No kidding! Wouldn't that be something if the springs were both missing/broken 
And Cal, I was in your same spot ~5 years ago. Used carb on a used intake, and it ran like poo  Couldn't touch the throttle for 10 minutes while it warmed up, and it still drove like crap. Eventually I figured out each little issue, and it drives almost perfectly now. Keep at it 
If you ever find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck.
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Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor...
[Re: cal_gecko]
#1237646
05/23/12 02:04 PM
05/23/12 02:04 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,017
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,017
U.S.S.A.
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OK... I did some more tweaking .. got it to 15 degrees advance at idle.. it struggles, but it'll stay idling, but fluctuates between 800-1000
I listened to the video , something is not right it should not be idling like that .
Can you borrow a carb from someone ?
And I can't see the springs in that shot above , they are under the plate.
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Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor...
[Re: RobX4406]
#1237648
05/23/12 02:06 PM
05/23/12 02:06 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,017
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,017
U.S.S.A.
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plus get that timing dialed back once you get the gap set.
WRONG!!!
Fix/weld the mechanical advance plate so the engine can have the proper initial.
Carry on
No , not really.
That is something he could/should eventually do but for right now to figure out what is going on he needs to keep it no higher than 5-8 .
How much total it has right now don't mean jack shyat...
He needs to get his idle issue sorted out and TOTAL plays absolutely no part in that area of the equation. Time that car at 5-8* initial and it will run worse than he could ever imagine.
I guess we will have to agree to disagree, there is no way that cam he has needs 30 degrees of initial timing to run right .
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Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor...
[Re: JohnRR]
#1237649
05/23/12 02:21 PM
05/23/12 02:21 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271
Overpriced Housing Central
RobX4406
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 12,271
Overpriced Housing Central
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plus get that timing dialed back once you get the gap set.
WRONG!!!
Fix/weld the mechanical advance plate so the engine can have the proper initial.
Carry on
No , not really.
That is something he could/should eventually do but for right now to figure out what is going on he needs to keep it no higher than 5-8 .
How much total it has right now don't mean jack shyat...
He needs to get his idle issue sorted out and TOTAL plays absolutely no part in that area of the equation. Time that car at 5-8* initial and it will run worse than he could ever imagine.
I guess we will have to agree to disagree, there is no way that cam he has needs 30 degrees of initial timing to run right .
Now that I agree with. It should run in the 14-18* range pretty easily IF everything is right. Total doesn't matter here, second piece of the ignition timing puzzle. He's not driving it, nor putting any load on it.
If that car starts easily with 30* initial on it, it's got no cylinder pressure. He had it apart and from what I understand didn't bother to degree the cam with the old timing set nor the new one...
I wonder if he fixed any of the other issues he had from the other threads. I'll bet one particular big one is still left unresolved.
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Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor...
[Re: Moparnut426]
#1237651
05/23/12 02:39 PM
05/23/12 02:39 PM
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Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 15,118
85086
moparpollack
Lil Herman
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Lil Herman
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 15,118
85086
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Are you running the car on the factory tank or a gas can? Did the car have old gas in it? or is it a new tank with new gas?
Are all the grounds good on the ignition box, motor, and battery?
Did the carb sit for a long period of time with old gas in the bowls? Are the carb butterflies closed all the way or hung up on a gasket?
Did you try spraying carb cleaner around the intake and carb bases to check for a air leak?
Are the sparkplug wires tight on the plugs, maybe a bad set of wires even though they are new?
56 Plaza 63 D100 step side 67 Coronet, 68 Roadrunner, 69 Super Bees, 69 Coronet 500 convertible, 70 Roadrunner Post, 79 D150 360, and a severe case of Mopar a,d,d
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Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor...
[Re: moparpollack]
#1237653
05/23/12 03:23 PM
05/23/12 03:23 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 12,589
Sacramento, CA
cal_gecko
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 12,589
Sacramento, CA
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Are you running the car on the factory tank or a gas can? Did the car have old gas in it? or is it a new tank with new gas?
factory tank.. we took it out and looked in it - it was in great shape inside.. there was barely any gas left in it, and about 8 gallons of new fuel was put into it.
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Are all the grounds good on the ignition box, motor, and battery?
As far as I know... I can add that to the list of things to check, just to tighten them down.
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Did the carb sit for a long period of time with old gas in the bowls? Are the carb butterflies closed all the way or hung up on a gasket?
It did sit for a while.. I went through it about 2 years ago, cleaned it all out and put in new gaskets.. but after that, it was just started a couple times. Good question about the carb butterflies.. I haven't looked at that.
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Did you try spraying carb cleaner around the intake and carb bases to check for a air leak?
I did.. it seems to be ok.. when I'm spraying around the carb, it does increase idle a bit, but I think that is from overspray making it into the top of the carb.
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Are the sparkplug wires tight on the plugs, maybe a bad set of wires even though they are new?
I have swapped to an entirely new set of Accel 8mm wires, and have made sure all wire ends are secure on the plugs...
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I wonder if he fixed any of the other issues he had from the other threads. I'll bet one particular big one is still left unresolved.
The compression test? I haven't had time to do that.. by the time I get home from work, it's 8pm at the earliest.. that's gonna have to wait until the weekend for me to do..
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This may sound dumb, but also do you have a different MSD box, I have had a few MSD boxes turn my hair grey from similar BS issues.
Doesn't sound dumb.. it's not the first time someone's mentioned it.. I don't have a spare MSD box, and since I don't have all the other Mopar electronic ignition stuff (ballast resistor, control box, wiring), I can't just disconnect the MSD box to see if it'll work without it
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Do you have another Carb and Distributor laying around?
I don't..
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I have 3 or 4 spare electronic distributors to try.....
I may take you up on your offer for assistance, now that I'm back to troubleshooting all the stuff on the 'outside' of the engine... you wouldn't happen to have a spare carb, too for testing purposes - would ya?
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Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor...
[Re: cal_gecko]
#1237654
05/23/12 03:31 PM
05/23/12 03:31 PM
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
Kern Dog
Striving for excellence
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Striving for excellence
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
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I have 3 or 4 spare electronic distributors to try.....
I may take you up on your offer for assistance, now that I'm back to troubleshooting all the stuff on the 'outside' of the engine... you wouldn't happen to have a spare carb, too for testing purposes - would ya?
Spare carburetors? Uhhh, no. I DO have a Holley 600 on my bro-in-laws 360, a Holley 750 on my own 67 Dart with a 360 and an 850 on the Charger. I'd be willing to pull them to test on your car if you need. ALL are square bore carbs like the standard Edelbrock pattern.
Just a thought... MY 360 in the 67 Dart is a reringed, stock piston '79 360 with '308 heads and a 280/474 cam. It idles pretty smoothe and makes great power. Very little lope. Stock points ignition. That may be an apples to oranges comparison though.
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Re: Continuing with the troubleshooting... distributor...
[Re: cal_gecko]
#1237655
05/23/12 03:36 PM
05/23/12 03:36 PM
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
Kern Dog
Striving for excellence
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Striving for excellence
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
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Oh yeah... I also have a ThermoQuad on a 440 in my '74 truck if you need a spread bore carb. I had an AVS rebuilt at the Carburetor Factory on Antelope. They went through it TWICE and it still ran terrible. It wouldn't idle below 1200, it was choppy and it stalled often when put into gear. I pulled that T-quad from a '80 318 in a van at pick-n-pull and the truck runs great! Want to buy an AVS cheap? 
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Re: help me ID the inside of this distributor...
[Re: Kern Dog]
#1237656
05/23/12 03:44 PM
05/23/12 03:44 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 12,589
Sacramento, CA
cal_gecko
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 12,589
Sacramento, CA
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Quote:
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I have 3 or 4 spare electronic distributors to try.....
I may take you up on your offer for assistance, now that I'm back to troubleshooting all the stuff on the 'outside' of the engine... you wouldn't happen to have a spare carb, too for testing purposes - would ya?
Spare carburetors? Uhhh, no. I DO have a Holley 600 on my bro-in-laws 360, a Holley 750 on my own 67 Dart with a 360 and an 850 on the Charger. I'd be willing to pull them to test on your car if you need. ALL are square bore carbs like the standard Edelbrock pattern.
Just a thought... MY 360 in the 67 Dart is a reringed, stock piston '79 360 with '308 heads and a 280/474 cam. It idles pretty smoothe and makes great power. Very little lope. Stock points ignition. That may be an apples to oranges comparison though.
I would think the 750 may be too much carburetor for my engine - but obviously, I'm no expert  The heads on yours might work better than the stock heads on mine for that much fuel.. I dunno ???
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Re: Continuing with the troubleshooting... distributor...
[Re: Kern Dog]
#1237657
05/23/12 03:51 PM
05/23/12 03:51 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 12,589
Sacramento, CA
cal_gecko
OP
I Live Here
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OP
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Posts: 12,589
Sacramento, CA
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it still ran terrible. It wouldn't idle below 1200, it was choppy and it stalled often when put into gear.
Want to buy an AVS cheap?
You need to work on your sales pitches!! This sounds very similar to the problem I'm already having.. I don't need to add to it! 
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Re: Continuing with the troubleshooting... distributor...
[Re: Moparnut426]
#1237659
05/23/12 04:59 PM
05/23/12 04:59 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 12,589
Sacramento, CA
cal_gecko
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 12,589
Sacramento, CA
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Ill tell ya what Cal, Ive been wanting to stick a stroked gen 3 HEMI in my demon for a while. Ill sell ya a nice HARD runnin 408 for your car, and Ill stick a HEMI in my Demon.... Carb to pan,
DEAL???? 
How much?
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worth in. Take that distributor apart and make sure it doesn't have a really weak spring. Could be allowing timing advance too low. Or coming in at or below your idle speed. If you haven't done that already.