Those that have not read the first post here it is
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...rue#Post7184797

anyways, i pulled a set of plugs off the shelf that was used in this car for a small time and changed out for different ones, they are good and never fouled, i put them in and still nothing! It wont even try to hit. It is indeed firing. I can take one of the plugs that i pulled out of the engine and stick it in one of the wires and she fires.. I dont know what else to do to get it started..Is there any way to get all of the gas out of the cylinders so i can start again with a brand new set of plugs?

ya, just tried again, i pulled the number one plug wire off and stuck one of the fouled plugs i took out of the engine into the wire and had the wife crank it over and it fired the plug, blue spark, but it refuses to hit, even with a shot of starting fluid. carb does spray when i hit the accelerator..
The thing ran perfect when i parked it, doesnt make sense..

What material is the cap and rotor and how old is it? If it is a cheap cap and rotor (contact pieces made from aluminum instead of brass/copper) they will wear to a point and then just not want to run anymore and will show like things are normal (as the resistance of the plug in the cylinder is too much). Try replacing with a new cap and rotor made of good material from a good manufacturer, not one at pep boys and such. Plugs gapped correctly? As stupid as this question is but are the plug wires fully on the plug after you put them back in?

ya, the wires are on the plugs fully. The cap and rotor are not very old, the engine doesnt have any more than 2000 miles on it since i built it 8 years ago. Dont drive it much. I usually pull it out every now and then and wash it and drive it around for the day.

If you are sure about the timing and distributor slot on the mark, and one plug out sparks against the side while cranking with no start, look at the carb. Make sure it is not pouring fuel down the manifold.

Can you tell if it is ignition or Fuel?

no, thats the problem, both seem to be working fine!! I just dont get it...fuel, air, and fire normally equall BOOM! This is weird. unless the spark just is not strong enough..it is blue like it should be..If it has indeed fouled the plugs again are they ruined or can i take a torch to them and get them red hot and make them work again?

What type is this build. Why keep replacing plugs if they are new. What is fouling them fuel ? Let them dry out and reuse, I clean old plugs with fuel. Is the piston wacking them cause they are down to far, that would show damage. What cranking compression are you getting?

Its 9.4:1 compression, and no the pistons are not hitting the plugs. I built this thing 8 years ago and its been fine. The last time it flooded out and refused to start i had to replace the plugs, then it started. Ive already pulled and dried these plugs, still wont start..

Let us suppose you have carb off, 160 cranking compression on the gauge.

The carb is new or rebuilt and returned to base settings.

Fuel is in the bowls and near the correct height.

The ign ground is to the block and solid.

The power + source is coming from both column harness wires. One from the keyon source wire, and one from the cranking source wire.

Base timing is 30 mechically forced or 16 base mechanical with 10-12 from the vacuum pod. Still a good 30 for cold start up.

These facts true it should run. always. What is different?

ha, everything is very close, just my timing is slightly different and it has 180 psi cranking pressure. Timing is 18 initial and 32 total. Has a MP 284/484 cam installed 4 degrees advanced. stock intake and 452 heads. hooker fenderwell headers, thermoquad built by me to demonsizzlers specs. Been the same for the last 8 years since i built it and only has about 2000 miles on the build..

18 at crank wont run well, may not light with that psi ,not without a vacuum pod supply another 10-12.

30 mechanically force will not crank and need a starter retard.

Usually.

My oppinion.

not understanding what you mean. I played with the timing for a long time to figure where in liked to be. If i advance the initial much more it cranks over real slow when hot..

That is why it should be vacuum supplied from a manifold vacuum source. Never had a pod at manifold vacuum not pull off at WOT causing detonation while driving.

You need a good 28-30 at start to idle right.

Hot start is challenging to get right. You will need a starter retard, and a vacuum pod. Learn how to tune the pod.

what is the difference in it advancing it by vacuum or mechanically when trying to start?
The last time it did this from setting too long the only thing that finally got it started was a new set of plugs. Could flooding it actually ruin the plugs? Pulling them and drying them out didnt fix it..

It is not starting / running because there is not enough initial timing being supplied. The fuel doesnot have enough lead time to burn at crank. It is doubtfull there is anything wrong with your plugs.

well, its always started and ran fine like it is, only time it pulls this crap is when i dont start it for 6 months or more..

anyhow, if i plug up the vacuum advance, how will i know if its right or advancing too much while cranking?

Mechaniclly set at 30 or locked out will not allow for the 20 or so it likes at about 2000 rpm WOT. Your initial and total sound good for wide open throttle. Now set the start up and cruise timing.

Also will not crank at locked mechanical 30,or might crank weak costing ignition energy.

I cannot set my 440 rpm package at 18 and 34 total mechanical with a Msd billet distruibutor and expect it to start without cranking the hell out of it. It needs the proper settings for the vacuuum hei system to drive around well.

ok but how do i set it for starting when it wont run?

Have your wife crank the key. You turn the distributor, advancing the timing until it starts then back it off. See if that helps.

You know which way is advance, correct? Clockwise on a 440.

What is your stall or is it 4 speed?

Here

Its 3500 stall. Off hand i dont remember which way i need to turn the distributor to advance it...been a while since ive been into this thing..lol..