Hey all,
Ive got my 69 Coronet just about down to a shell. Doors, fenders, suspension, etc. off. Just need to do a little interior removal.

Im taking it down to bare metal and going to repair the usual cancer spots (lower quarters, rear window channel, trunk).
I was planning on going PPG Deltron line and Im just getting my list together and checking on pricing. Here is what I have so far.

Gal DP40 and 2 quarts catalyst
Gal K36 and 1 quart hardner
Gal DCC (acrylic urethane SS), hardner, and gal reducer

At my local carquest, this comes to just under 1200. Btw, DCC is F6.

Im just curious if that figure sound in the ballpark to u guys. I cant find many other PPG dealers around me except for carquest, but if u guys think that price is thru the roof, Id be willing to take a drive to save on cost.

Btw, please dont suggest going to a cheaper version like the Omni or Dupont Nason. I was considering this but I think its retarded to do all that work and skimp on the paint.

Just looking to see if the price for materials listed seems ok to those of u who are familiar and have used them.

Thnx alot and let me fnow if there is any other info u need.

I spent $1200 on liquids for my 'Cuda, but that was back in 2006.

PPG DP40
Build Primer
Concept (Sublime) Single Stage (1 gallon)
Plus all the required reducer and catalysts.

I was able to buy all of the above at an autobody discount.
Considering that was 6 years ago, and paint prices HAVE gone up, I think your $1200 figure is good.

I would make one suggestion, if you were doing a solid color I 100% support using single stage but since your using a Metallic I strongly suggest using a base/clear system... You can't color sand a single stage metallic paint job without risking getting into the metallic... If you get into the metallic your opening a big can of worms...

Oh definitely....

Im pretty new to all the paint stuff...haha. But everything Ive read goes exactly with what is stated above....SS ok for solid, BC/CC for metallic.

I feel kinda stupid for sying this but I was unaware F6 was considered a metallic. This is where I get confused on the solid vs metallic thing. I just thought metallic had "flakes" in it and solid doesnt. Couldnt I just have the F6 just mixed as a solid or would that look like crap? Or am I just completely off in my understanding of solid vs metallic?

Forgive my ignorance guys, but what choices does that leave me for 69 colors? I really would like to stick with SS.

Thnx for your help.

OK we need to clarify what F6 your referring to... 69 F6 which is what I assumed you meant or 70 FJ6 which is non-metallic...

69 F6

70 FJ6

Choices that are not metallic... Follow this link, if it sez Poly in the color name it's metallic.. Oh and Rallye Green doesn't say Poly but it too is metallic.... FWIW I love F6 green & I would do the base/clear.... I know it's more money, If your concerned about it looking to deep/ shiny let your painter known your concerns, he can tone down the bling...

http://www.tcpglobal.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1969-dodge-pg01.jpg

Ok, thnx for clearing that up.

Its definitely the 69 color.

Well....shoot....that changes things. New game plan.

Either change to BC/CC or change color.

I wanted to stick with SS cuz Im new at shooting and Ive heard SS is easier to fix mistakes.

Thnx for the help. Decisions...decisions....decisions.

I've been using Dupont Nason for quite a few years now and it's hard to beat the price. I bought a gallon with activator, reducer and a gallon of clear/activator for under 350 locally. And yes people say it's cheap, so it must be junk. I find it covers well and the clear is good too. Unlike Omni, which seems watered down and doesn't cover as well when using their base coats, but omni clear is good. I use it 90% of the time, it matches factory colors very well too. And it's not going to fade in a year or two like other cheap paints.

If your doing it yourself and not a pro, first I would do base/clear. Unless you spray the base way too heavy, it's hard to mess up. A metallic in single stage is definetly not easy to get right. Base/clear, it makes no real difference if it's a solid color or metallic. You could get some variation in the metallic if you didn't spray the entire body at once together, but even then they usually turn out fine. I also wouldn't spent over 1k if your new to painting, because if you mess up its going to cost a lot more to fix.

I'm still wet behind the ears on painting, but for a metallic, and the 69 color IS mettalic, I have been told many times to do the base/clear.
You can use a cheaper base coat, but get GOOD clear. It will lay down better, be longer lasting and has the UV protection to keep the base looking good.
Since you are doing a full on deal, you can try the single stage underhood and underneath to see if you can shoot metallic, but those areas are a booger to scuff and reshoot!
As for price, the internet will show you all sorts of places selling the same products. You can price compare from your home. I would really consider purchasing locally though. They will be able to offer expert guidence, be more responsive to your needs and may be able to get you a package deal for all your needs. Paint is a lot more than the wet stuff at the end.

Ok, I just got all of the paint for my 68 charger, full rotissori. I did 1.25 gallons of single stage omni for underhood, bottom and the inside. I went with base clear for the outside. This includes 3 gallons of 5 star fill and sand, 1 gallon DP90LF, 1 gallon of Omni paint, 2 gallons of PPG 2021 clear, and 1 gallon of POR15. I plan on under coating the underside...so a total of $2400.00

Alright guys, thnx for the help.
Did some research since my original post and it looks like the consensus is that the BC/CC is definitely the way to go for the novice and a metallic color (F6 in my case).
So I called back the local carquest and inquired on DBC base and DCU clear instead of the DCC SS.
Now Im looking at 1450 instead of 1200. Still not too bad, but starting to get up there considering I still need to get some Rage filler, WG remover, mask, paper, etc.
I was considering substituting SPI primers for the PPG as it would actually save about 200, but Id like to stay with the same system throughout and SPI doesnt do base. Plus, there is something to be said for being able to head down to the local paint supply on saturday morning if I get in a pinch. Sometimes convenience and face to face help with someone who knows more than I do is worth a few extra bucks.

Don't forget
mask or respirator
mixing cups and sticks (usually thrown in)
fish eye
masking paper and tape
prep sol and laquer thinner to clean stuff
Gloves and suit are nice too

plus all the body supplies!

Look into Matrix MPB and their AG40 clearcoat. You'll be way under $1000 with epoxy,Evercoat Featherfill G2 primer,e.t.c.I've been using this stuff for well over 10 years on daily basis.