My rebuilt 73 318 had been sitting in my parents shop for quite a few years. Mice made a mess of the paint on the intake and there was a lot of Decon stored around the exhaust valves. I pulled the intake along with the valve covers and oil pan just to make sure no mice found their way inside. So far there's no evidence that they got in there.

Should I pull the heads just to make sure nothing got by the exhaust valves and to check for any cylinder surface rust?(it's been sitting for 7 or 8 years) Since the engine was never started, can the head gaskets be reused or do I need new ones? This is just a stockish low comp rebuild.

Also, what type of intake gaskets were used on this engine originally? I've got two different types...one thick composite gasket and one thin steel gasket. The first time around I used the thick gasket but trimmed the excess material away so it wasn't showing. Should I do this again or use the steel gasket?

Mopar engines came with steel gaskets everywhere, even under the thermostat housing.

You have disassembled far enough. Don't even think about removing the heads. The rat poison will get blown out the exhaust upon fireup.

I've started many an engine after longer than that sitting in a field or under a tree. It's a 318, stockish rebuild. Nothing can hurt it.

Here's what I'd do:
Pull rocker assemblies, pushrods and lifters, keeping in order.
Pull spark plugs and squirt a couple of squirts of 2-cycle engine oil in each hole. Turn the engine over a couple of times slowly to distribute the oil.
Replace spark plugs.
Get as much cam assembly lube on the cam and bottom of the lifters, oil on the sides as you replace them.
Put assembly lube on each end of the pushrods as you install them.
Put assembly lube on the valve stem tips.
Oil the valve stems through the springs.
Install rocker assemblies, torquing carefully.
Install rocker covers using your favorite goop to help seal the gaskets.
If using the steel intake gaskets, apply a thin film of your favorite goop to each side before insallation.
Clean the end rails and mating manifold places.
Throw the end seals away.
Apply an appropriate-sized bead of silicone or "The Right Stuff" to the end rails of the block, a little more on each end in the "corner".
Set the intake in place. If you used the right stuff, torque it down. If you used silicone give it a few hours.

Now your engine is ready to go into a car. After it is installed and the pan is full of oil, you can prime the oil system with a drill and the proper tool.

Good Luck!

R.

OEM used steel intake gaskets on the 318. I much prefer the composite for a better more sure seal.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll be putting it back together tomorrow.

Yesterday I bought some Lucas Oil zinc additive for break-in. It says to add it along with the correct amount of oil for the engine and to run it for 1000 miles...then change the oil. I thought normal procedure was to change the oil right after break-in? So, what should I do...change the oil right away or wait?