Just looking for the torque sequence for the 18 bolt r3 head pattern?????Any help would be appreciated.

No info, but a bump for me to.

FelPro used to show this in their gasket catologue. Along with torque ratings. Their are two problems you can run into. If you torque the outside row to 58 ft lbs you stand the change of breaking the lugs off the block sense the bolts are so short and don't have a lot of stretch. The other deal is some use 1/2" studs for the original 10 head bolts. Others like Pro Stock and High End drag race heads use 7/16" for those original 10 bolts. The other is are you using studs or bolts?

I always ran studs but had tappered 7/16-1/2" in the block bolts to fit the CFE W8 heads. I try to sneak up on it when mounting heads instead of simply ripping down on the head bolts. When you run heads you can't afford to crank you have to be carefull. So ussualy I torque 50% the first time around and get all the bolts then go back for the final job and then check over every bolt after thinking I am finished.

Torque the original 10 starting with the top row center. If you have 1/2" studs 100 ft lbs. If 7/16" 80 ft lbs. Then drop to bottom center. Work your way out on the original 10 bolts finishing on one of the bottom corners just like a 10 bolt head. Adjust your torque wrench to 60 ft lbs and torque the top four starting with either of the two middle bolts under the rocker gear and work your way out. Then adjust the torque wrench to 40 ft lbs and torque the four bolts as most of these are not studded that are under the exhaust header.

I use round numbers on these bolts for torqueing. I beleive the actual figure for the top 4 is ?(58-62) ft lbs and the bottom four is 38 ft lbs.

I have heard some different methods and FelPro had their own also. Had some very good luck holding the cylinder pressures of too much compression ratio and nitrous.

Leon

I have had problems with the small bolt lugs...
now I just torque them to 30 or so after I have finished the normal 10, no problems with the gaskets so far

Well, I had just wrote up a fairly long post, but for some reason it did not post......After messing with it I tightened up the factory 10, then the same pattern with the additional 8 at 40 fty lbs, using a beam wrench, I noticed the center 10 had lost some tension, so backed out 1 at a time and retorqued to 100.....now all were evenly torqued from what my beam wrench was showing....I really do like using the beam wrench now, seems like you can really see what is happening, not just hoping that a click is correct.

I threw away my "click" wrench 15 years ago