Re: 383 2bbl to 4bbl conversion
[Re: ChryslerDUDE]
#1213804
04/10/12 10:33 PM
04/10/12 10:33 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 18,582 Rust Belt, SW PA
Silver70
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 18,582
Rust Belt, SW PA
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I use the bouchillion kits when I do swaps for the easy of adjustment. I can;t offer any help on how to do yours as I nevever changed one over with out swapping it over to an updated style.
68 Road Runner, 69 Belvedere, 71 Challenger Vert 340 barracuda, 01 Ram CTD, 95 Ram, 04 Ram, 85 Daytona turbo Z 66 GTO, 06 Magnum RT AWD. 07 Ram CTD, 07 Ram
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Re: 383 2bbl to 4bbl conversion
[Re: ChryslerDUDE]
#1213806
04/11/12 12:55 AM
04/11/12 12:55 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,996 s. e. pa.
calrobb2000
top fuel
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,996
s. e. pa.
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hi open your throttle to wide open and check that the linkage to trans is all but used up the travel of the linkage , should be app 1/16 in travel in rod not used up . this should give you the passing gear shift when at wide open thrtle and have the lower shift points correct . we need to know what performance parts your engine has to get correct tune up otherwise it will be a slug !
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Re: 383 2bbl to 4bbl conversion
[Re: dvw]
#1213808
04/11/12 09:33 AM
04/11/12 09:33 AM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,032 Ohio
dobie
super stock
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super stock
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Ohio
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I cant offer any help, other than to say I did the exact thing. My 383 came out of a 68 Newport which I added a 4bbl intake and 650 DP carb. No issues at all, and it runs great. My car, however, is a 4 speed.
1968 Plymouth Road Runner
383 4 speed
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Re: 383 2bbl to 4bbl conversion
[Re: ChryslerDUDE]
#1213809
04/11/12 10:32 AM
04/11/12 10:32 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,005 U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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Quote:
Thanks. I've heard of that product as well as something called "Lokar", but I was able to score a OEM 4bbl bracket off another 383 motor that came from the factory with a 4bbl carb. It bolted on exactly to my motor, and everything else seems to line up well too. I'm wondering if I have the kick down lever properly attached, but only trying to guess.
First off the 2 bbl and 4 bbl throttle cable bracket are the same part so I'm confused as to what you got off the 4bbl engine that was different ?
What exact carb do you have ? Is it an aftermarket ebrock 650 AVS or a factory AVS ? If ebrock do you have the throttle adapter specifically for a Chrysler application , if not you need it .
The only part that is different between the 2 bbl and 4bbl , other than maybe the throttle CABLE length , is the upper most rod that goes goes from the pivot on the bracket to the carb, it's longer and ebrock does sell a threaded extension that will allow the 2bbl rod to work. there is an adjustment procedure to correctly set this linkage up to work properly in the Factory service manual.
Driving without the THROTTLE PRESSURE linkage (incorrectly refered to as kickdown) incorrectly installed or not installed is going to fry the direct (3rd gear) clutches in short order.
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Re: 383 2bbl to 4bbl conversion
[Re: calrobb2000]
#1213810
04/11/12 12:10 PM
04/11/12 12:10 PM
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 23 NJ
ChryslerDUDE
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Quote:
hi open your throttle to wide open and check that the linkage to trans is all but used up the travel of the linkage , should be app 1/16 in travel in rod not used up .
this should give you the passing gear shift when at wide open thrtle and have the lower shift points correct .
we need to know what performance parts your engine has to get correct tune up otherwise it will be a slug !
Hi- it is (was) a plain jane 1970 383 2bbl motor w/62K mi. I paid to have a good professional valve job done to it (and much to my surprise it was super clean inside!),I tossed in Mopar Performance valve springs, new push rods, lifters, hardened valve seats, new Cloyes timing chain, MP 383/440 magnum grind camshaft, electronic ignition (orange box), MSD blaster coil, MP distributor, flex-a-lite aux trans cooler, and topped it all off with an Edelbrock performer aluminum intake manifold and Edelbrock "Thunder" series 650CFM AVS carburator. I'm running stock exhaust logs that exit out 2.5" pipes to Flowmaster 40 series mufflers. I think I should be feeling a lot more power than what I am.
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Re: 383 2bbl to 4bbl conversion
[Re: JohnRR]
#1213811
04/11/12 12:48 PM
04/11/12 12:48 PM
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 23 NJ
ChryslerDUDE
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Quote:
Quote:
Thanks. I've heard of that product as well as something called "Lokar", but I was able to score a OEM 4bbl bracket off another 383 motor that came from the factory with a 4bbl carb. It bolted on exactly to my motor, and everything else seems to line up well too. I'm wondering if I have the kick down lever properly attached, but only trying to guess.
First off the 2 bbl and 4 bbl throttle cable bracket are the same part so I'm confused as to what you got off the 4bbl engine that was different ?
What exact carb do you have ? Is it an aftermarket ebrock 650 AVS or a factory AVS ? If ebrock do you have the throttle adapter specifically for a Chrysler application , if not you need it .
The only part that is different between the 2 bbl and 4bbl , other than maybe the throttle CABLE length , is the upper most rod that goes goes from the pivot on the bracket to the carb, it's longer and ebrock does sell a threaded extension that will allow the 2bbl rod to work. there is an adjustment procedure to correctly set this linkage up to work properly in the Factory service manual.
Driving without the THROTTLE PRESSURE linkage (incorrectly refered to as kickdown) incorrectly installed or not installed is going to fry the direct (3rd gear) clutches in short order.
Hi – the bracket that was original to my 383 2bbl set up is totally different then the one I grabbed off another 383 motor I have. The latter had a 4bbl carb on it (came out of a dodge challenger). I looks very different than the 2bbl bracket however it still bolts up to the same exact location on my intake manifold. I have an aftermarket Edlebrock AVS carb, 650CFM, and I do have the Ebrock Chrysler adapter on it. Funny, I have no “cable”, just a solid steel “rod” that has a couple bends in it as it connects down to the kick down lever on the transmission. The other end of it is slotted and connects to throttle mechanism on the carb. I’ve attached a picture of the OLD 2bbl bracket set I was running with the new Ebrock carb…with this setup the car would run but would not shift properly no matter how many times I tried to adjust it….1st and 2nd gear came in too quickly and then the rest was ALL 3rd gear from like 25mph and up. The second pic is the 4bbl bracket setup (note the difference between the two brackets). I was just out for a spin and made a few quick adjustments on the fly, but still not getting in kick down action…like when trying to merge on highway and you mash the peddle at 35-40 mph to catch up to cars going 65-70mph. Also I think I might need to adjust when the secondaries begin to open as well.
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Re: 383 2bbl to 4bbl conversion
[Re: ChryslerDUDE]
#1213812
04/11/12 12:49 PM
04/11/12 12:49 PM
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 23 NJ
ChryslerDUDE
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Thanks. I've heard of that product as well as something called "Lokar", but I was able to score a OEM 4bbl bracket off another 383 motor that came from the factory with a 4bbl carb. It bolted on exactly to my motor, and everything else seems to line up well too. I'm wondering if I have the kick down lever properly attached, but only trying to guess.
First off the 2 bbl and 4 bbl throttle cable bracket are the same part so I'm confused as to what you got off the 4bbl engine that was different ?
What exact carb do you have ? Is it an aftermarket ebrock 650 AVS or a factory AVS ? If ebrock do you have the throttle adapter specifically for a Chrysler application , if not you need it .
The only part that is different between the 2 bbl and 4bbl , other than maybe the throttle CABLE length , is the upper most rod that goes goes from the pivot on the bracket to the carb, it's longer and ebrock does sell a threaded extension that will allow the 2bbl rod to work. there is an adjustment procedure to correctly set this linkage up to work properly in the Factory service manual.
Driving without the THROTTLE PRESSURE linkage (incorrectly refered to as kickdown) incorrectly installed or not installed is going to fry the direct (3rd gear) clutches in short order.
Hi – the bracket that was original to my 383 2bbl set up is totally different then the one I grabbed off another 383 motor I have. The latter had a 4bbl carb on it (came out of a dodge challenger). I looks very different than the 2bbl bracket however it still bolts up to the same exact location on my intake manifold. I have an aftermarket Edlebrock AVS carb, 650CFM, and I do have the Ebrock Chrysler adapter on it. Funny, I have no “cable”, just a solid steel “rod” that has a couple bends in it as it connects down to the kick down lever on the transmission. The other end of it is slotted and connects to throttle mechanism on the carb. I’ve attached a picture of the OLD 2bbl bracket set I was running with the new Ebrock carb…with this setup the car would run but would not shift properly no matter how many times I tried to adjust it….1st and 2nd gear came in too quickly and then the rest was ALL 3rd gear from like 25mph and up. The second pic is the 4bbl bracket setup (note the difference between the two brackets). I was just out for a spin and made a few quick adjustments on the fly, but still not getting in kick down action…like when trying to merge on highway and you mash the peddle at 35-40 mph to catch up to cars going 65-70mph. Also I think I might need to adjust when the secondaries begin to open as well.
Here's the 4bbl bracket setup.....this bracket looks different than the 2bbl bracket.
Last edited by ChryslerDUDE; 04/11/12 12:50 PM.
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Re: 383 2bbl to 4bbl conversion
[Re: JohnRR]
#1213816
04/11/12 03:48 PM
04/11/12 03:48 PM
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Joined: Apr 2012
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THANKS. I think I might have a spring somewhere in my parts bin that I can use there, I'll hook it up and post a pic. As far as the kick down rod goes, I've seen diagrams that show some type of cable rig that do not have the long rod that I have: https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Number=6251805I guess this is just for small block motors.
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Re: 383 2bbl to 4bbl conversion
[Re: ChryslerDUDE]
#1213820
04/11/12 06:37 PM
04/11/12 06:37 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,005 U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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Quote:
OH wow,....many THANKS for the pics!! It appears my set up is exactly like yours (looking at your motor) EXCEPT on yours the stud poking thru the Ebrock Chrysler adapter is sitting to the right side on the slider bar, while mine sits to the left side on the slider bar….this is in idle position, why would mine be different? Also I have the slot on my kick down rod positioned so that its mounting bolt is slid all the way to the right end. Looks like yours is the same way? I just went for another short trip and the ol girl just has no giddiyap for some reason. No kick down action still, if I floor it at mid range (35-40 mph) the carb will open up (WAAAAAAHHHHH) but no gear change....its in drive (3rd gear) all the way up. I know she has some kick to her....
Did you get the slotted bar set up so tht it is like the picture i posted above ? If not then your not setup correctly and it will not do what you think it should do. It needs to be setup like it is in the picture above.
Keep on driving it the way it is and it won't be long before you are asking ...
Why does my trans only have 1st and 2nd gear ???
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Re: 383 2bbl to 4bbl conversion
[Re: JohnRR]
#1213821
04/11/12 06:52 PM
04/11/12 06:52 PM
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Joined: Apr 2012
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Quote:
Quote:
OH wow,....many THANKS for the pics!! It appears my set up is exactly like yours (looking at your motor) EXCEPT on yours the stud poking thru the Ebrock Chrysler adapter is sitting to the right side on the slider bar, while mine sits to the left side on the slider bar….this is in idle position, why would mine be different? Also I have the slot on my kick down rod positioned so that its mounting bolt is slid all the way to the right end. Looks like yours is the same way? I just went for another short trip and the ol girl just has no giddiyap for some reason. No kick down action still, if I floor it at mid range (35-40 mph) the carb will open up (WAAAAAAHHHHH) but no gear change....its in drive (3rd gear) all the way up. I know she has some kick to her....
Did you get the slotted bar set up so tht it is like the picture i posted above ? If not then your not setup correctly and it will not do what you think it should do. It needs to be setup like it is in the picture above.
Keep on driving it the way it is and it won't be long before you are asking ...
Why does my trans only have 1st and 2nd gear ???
ARE YOU SURE???? I just got back from running her, I made the changes suggested by A12rag and WHAT a difference, (i also seem to have all gears as I tested that before even backing down the driveway (safety first, ya know) results: MORE POWER from the moment I pull out into traffic. The geometry of your setup looks identical to mine but for the difference in the position of the sliders (mine vs. yours). I don't know why that is, maybe could be that your car is OEM 4bbl and mine is not, the linkage setup might not work out to be exactly the same. If there is something still messed up I'll continue wringing it out...I still think there is still a little bit more thrust to be had...but this is way more like it. THANKS A12RAG
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Re: 383 2bbl to 4bbl conversion
[Re: ChryslerDUDE]
#1213822
04/11/12 07:23 PM
04/11/12 07:23 PM
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 23 NJ
ChryslerDUDE
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
OH wow,....many THANKS for the pics!! It appears my set up is exactly like yours (looking at your motor) EXCEPT on yours the stud poking thru the Ebrock Chrysler adapter is sitting to the right side on the slider bar, while mine sits to the left side on the slider bar….this is in idle position, why would mine be different? Also I have the slot on my kick down rod positioned so that its mounting bolt is slid all the way to the right end. Looks like yours is the same way? I just went for another short trip and the ol girl just has no giddiyap for some reason. No kick down action still, if I floor it at mid range (35-40 mph) the carb will open up (WAAAAAAHHHHH) but no gear change....its in drive (3rd gear) all the way up. I know she has some kick to her....
Did you get the slotted bar set up so tht it is like the picture i posted above ? If not then your not setup correctly and it will not do what you think it should do. It needs to be setup like it is in the picture above.
Keep on driving it the way it is and it won't be long before you are asking ...
Why does my trans only have 1st and 2nd gear ???
ARE YOU SURE???? I just got back from running her, I made the changes suggested by A12rag and WHAT a difference, (i also seem to have all gears as I tested that before even backing down the driveway (safety first, ya know) results: MORE POWER from the moment I pull out into traffic. The geometry of your setup looks identical to mine but for the difference in the position of the sliders (mine vs. yours). I don't know why that is, maybe could be that your car is OEM 4bbl and mine is not, the linkage setup might not work out to be exactly the same. If there is something still messed up I'll continue wringing it out...I still think there is still a little bit more thrust to be had...but this is way more like it. THANKS A12RAG
OOOKAAY. Just found this on the C body dry dock...there is a "2bbl" kick down rod and a "4bbl" kick down rod --- "the two barrel kick down rod is 1.25" shorter than the 4 bbl one, so it must have the extension on there to work correctly. Mine was missing- there was a jury rigged 5/16" threaded rod in it's place, and when I went to the pic-n-pull to get the right one, I grabbed one off a 2bbl car (didn't know about the difference at the time)". Sheeesh will this ever end. Now I gotta find the correct rod. JohnRR - maybe this might have something to do with the difference of between my linkage and the one in your pic; I dunno just trying to see what sticks to the wall....I'll get this hammered out sooner or later...
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