All of the post have been very informative. I think this might be the best starter option for what I wanna do in the future. I'm quite aways off from building anything but I my degrees are finally within reach(I graduate from college in Dec). Depending upon whether I go grad school or straight into the workforce will determine how quickly I can start building something. I'm still trying to determine whether I should start out building a car or converting the car we have. Both, would be quite a bit of work.


This engine looks to have very good potential for power. Getting a properly spec out cam, new valvetrain parts, and reworking the heads some would be key. 10000rpm should be cake after that. I think adjustments could be made in other areas to work well plus with the money you save getting a complete engine, you could put that money back into the engine to upgrade other things. I would also have to change the oil system over to wet sump to work in this class as well but thats doable. Anybody know what the max bore is on the R5 block?

4.25" on the right block
If 10K RPM was "cake", everyone would be doing it.

40Ford what kind of valespring life do you get at that RPM?

Everybody sit down, take a deep breath, forget most of what you have heard----and listen to what we do!

We use PAC valve springs, 1.500" in diameter, good to .900" lift. Seat pressure is 400, 1280 open. If you notice, we only go to .830" on the intake at the valve, even less on the exhaust. We do use 1/2" pushrods. Spring life so far last year was 48 passes---the springs still check out fine!

We don't try to get into that 1.000" lift range. Why? The heads still flow well----but not that much better than at .750" Why use crazy valve lifts when it doesn't give you that much more? Also, we preheat the oil---and keep it at 200 degrees for every run. Also, we use spring oilers---absolute necessary for decent valve spring life(take a lesson from the roundy round guys). And, after evey race weekend, we release valve spring pressure.

The P7 is a fine engine, short stroke, big bore. It doesn't have the torque that larger engines do but that is a matter of mechanical advantage. Yes, we probably get our little 358" to go a little faster/quicker----but it can get expensive real quick. For what it does, we are very happy. You have no idea how happy we are when we trailer a 500" supercharged BB FED with our little engine. And we are happy when our "friendly" competitors just shake their heads when they look at it!

40Ford, Thanks for the info. I was curious with the valve weights and lift what kind of life you were getting. We spin our 99 a little less RPM but with more lift and obviously much heavier valves. I also use Pac springs and we never leave the rockers on the car. We just switched to a heavier spring and so far seem to have better valve spring life, I am sure soon we will find the limits of them however.

I to am contemplating building one fo these engines. I just cannot seem to find the good guy deals like some I have heard of on the hard parts. Not worried about consumables as we will replace most of those anywya in building an engine.

I understand your difficulty about getting some of the "sweetheart" deals on P7 engines. Kent Ridder helped us to get the first one. Since then, there are other sources out there: Ernie Elliot, Evernham,and I understand that Penske still has some. I was not impressed with Davis or Petty engines. Sorry, but that is my honest opinion. You just need to keep your "ears to the ground" and one will be available. I prefer to know the exact background of a used engine, who built it and for what purpose. For example, some of these "deal" are for old experimental engines---sometimes you need to be careful of these because the heads may not be that good, etc.

I have heard of engines that sell for $4K complete. I preferred to get an Elliot engine that was a truck engine---It had a roller cam/lifters and set up for the Nascar 830 CFM carb. Restrictor plate engines often are built very different. The old Busch engines have rollers----but used the 390 carb. Of course, Cup engines are flat tappet.

Back to the valve springs----you would be surprised at the difference spring oilers and preheated oil makes on valve spring life.

thats it give it to him duster,adrielp give me a call & i'll help you with what i can jg309,618-806-1564,got a deal for you

Well we do pre heat the oil. Np spray bars however, just a pushrod oiled deal. Dont now of anyone running a 99Hemi with spraybars.

Al, I understand there is a difference between "spray bars" and "spring oilers". I understand the "spray bars" oil the rockers primarily. "Spring oilers" are tubes welded inside the valve covers that spray oil directly on to the valve springs. We began doing this during our oval track days(20 years ago)---it worked for us---still do it on our drag engines. As Ronny said, they help to prevent spring breakage during warm up. BTW, some people(including the Direct Connection people) thought we were crazy for wanting to build "spring oilers"

We have never used "spray bars".

40ford - I sent you e-mail. Did you got it?

No, I didn't get the message. Feel free to ask the question on the general board.
Charles

I sended it to you mail sanborn@cafes.net

Thanks

Well the one I was thinking of buying got sold to someone in CANADA. I just have too much going on to buy one at the moment. Also still need to sell my R3 shorblock to have some more cash.

I really want the EEI block with taller deck and 340 mains. I beleive the EEI heads are much better than any of the Everham heads. I have two sets of Everham heads. Bondobob has a set of Bill Davis heads that are big.

40Ford do you know of any EEI truck stuff for sale? Really would rather have a roller to start with.

Leon

leon give me a call tomorrow morning at 618-806-1564,what kind of r3 stouf you got,maybe do some trading got a new xr2 & all the goddies to go with it,jg309

So what are the key differences in the head and engine that make them unable to be used correctly for drag racing? Also, what work is involved to change the engine over to a roller? With the ability to use epoxy, I would think you be able to get the port shape back to whatever you wanted. Also, one would be replacing most of the valvetrain anyway. Also, since there is less meat on the intake port side, has anyone thought of welding the top of the intake ports a certain amount, then re-machining spring seats and rocker stands, you would just longer pushrods after that correct? I figure you could get a .25 to .375 more height in the port.

"...shift @ 9600
thru the traps @ 10400..."

May I ask what was the brand and life of your valve springs ?