Trying to get a driveshaft together for my soon to be race car (bracket car with only 400 horse). I have a 904 tranny (with small slip yoke), small yoke 741 suregrip and a driveshaft with large u-joints. So as I see it my choices are:

1. Use my existing parts with the conversion u-joints (7260 x 7290) -Low cost/couple days

2. Buy a 7290 904 yoke and a 7290 741 yoke and use existing driveshaft. -Medium high cost/few weeks or more to find use parts

3. Use my existing 904 yoke and 741 yoke and cut/balance a new driveshaft with 7260 yokes (original plan). High cost/1 week

Of course I want the cheapest, easiest option (option 1) but am worried that the conversion u-joints will hold up to 400 horsepower with slicks.

Thoughts???

I have used a conversion joint in the rear position on my junk for years. However, mine is taking a small joint shaft to a large yoke rear.

You're going the other way. Not sure the small arm of the cross could take the torque of the large arm for too long.

Dont dick around and if you are going to spend the money and get 1350's, its not much more money and you get the better joints. Tim

Been using the conversion u-joint on 3 cars for many years..

71 dart 360 has run 10.90s in Vegas with transbrake for 5 yrs now...

71 Demon 360 has run 11.10s in Vegas, now with transbrake going on second season.

you should not have any problems with the 7260/7290 u-joint.

All the Max Wedge cars came with 7260 joints, I ran them in my low ten second Duster until the 8 3/4 housing twisted itself to death Make sure and get the HD solid cross shaft joints no matter what size you choose, not the greasable ones I did break a greasable 7290 front U joint and trans yoke in that car, not sure which broke first It now has a 7290 HD solid cross shaft front yoke and U joint and a 1330 or 1310(not sure which number it uses) rear U joint to match the stock Dana 60 pinon yoke

Dana/spicer # is 5-527x. That is the one I have been using with no problems, John.

Check with Lakewood products for a solid U joint, John.

You will be fine with the conversion U joint. I too ran 1 for many miles, qtr mile blasts ect with no problems.

I checked Lakewood and I still can't find a conversion u-joint without a zirc. Are the folks here that are running a conversion u-joint on the track using the greasable type?

You should be fine. I would source a solid one if available. #1 make sure the ujoint moves free in both planes. with the shaft horizontle supported just off the ground I rap the 2 "ears" between the shaft and the ujoint with the pein end of a medium hammer to square it up & free it after knocking in the ujoint