Re: Alternator, battery, or grounds....? kinda long
[Re: Bdrainy]
#120953
09/15/08 02:11 PM
09/15/08 02:11 PM
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,516 Santa Cruz, California
Lefty
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master
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,516
Santa Cruz, California
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Quote:
take the battery and the alternator over to a parts store to get them checked
That's the first step.
When you say you "checked the grounds" How did you do that? Without removing the connector and cleaning you can't be sure it's ok. Even with an ohm meter you can miss corrosion issues that get worse with heat.
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Re: Alternator, battery, or grounds....? kinda long
[Re: Andrewh]
#120955
09/15/08 03:33 PM
09/15/08 03:33 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,866 North of Detroit
HemiDart68
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master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,866
North of Detroit
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We have had similiar problems on cars before. When you use a high amp alternator the factory wire can't handle the job. We had this problem on a car with a 100 amp alternator, and nothing would stay charged. Ran a battery cable off the alternator to the battery and all problems were solved. This is now the way we wire all cars. If your alternator and battery check out, give it a try. It would be real easy to throw a heavy wire/cable on with a couple zip ties to check before you go through alot of work.
In God we trust, all others pay cash.
www.lightnens.com (Home of the world's fastest Paint Job)
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Re: Alternator, battery, or grounds....? kinda long
[Re: Bdrainy]
#120957
09/15/08 07:28 PM
09/15/08 07:28 PM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 228 Myrtle Beach
Boot
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 228
Myrtle Beach
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Make sure you fuse it, nobody wants their car to burn.
47 chopped Plymouth Sedan 340/727
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Re: Alternator, battery, or grounds....? kinda long
[Re: Bdrainy]
#120958
09/15/08 09:37 PM
09/15/08 09:37 PM
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,948 Harlan, Iowa
69CoronetRT
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master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 8,948
Harlan, Iowa
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Quote:
Hi, ...Here is the problem. The car runs ok around 900-950 rpm in park. It even runs ok while in gear at around 850ish RPM. my voltmeter shows about 14.5 volts. Then when I turn on the headlights the volts drop to around 12.5 or 13. The car starts running rougher and rougher until it finally dies.
I had exactly the same problem and chased a lot of phantoms including swapping alternators and batteries.
Here's what I learned...old school still works. My original alternator gave better voltage at idle than a new rebuilt one. I was not getting enough juice to power the electronic ignition at low rpms with lights and everything else one. Once I put the original alternator back on, it held an idle.
Do you still run through the bulkhead connector? That was another of my problems. Once I cleaned and secured all connections in the charging path, the car ran fine.
So before you spend time and money buying new alternators or batteries, take some time and check what's already there. Use a good multi meter to test as you go.
Seeking:
1969 St. Louis plant VINs, SPD, and VONs. Over 2,000 thanks to you!
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Re: Alternator, battery, or grounds....? kinda long
[Re: Bdrainy]
#120960
09/17/08 02:44 PM
09/17/08 02:44 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,448 So Cal
Sinitro
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,448
So Cal
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Quote:
ok, i won't have much time to do anything until this weekend but I went played with it for a few mins last night.
With the idle around 850ish in gear I realized that I can have the headlights and the volts stay around 14.5. as soon as I hit the brakes (brake lights go on) that the volts start dropping. It seems the system won't handle both.
But I upped the idle slightly to 900-925ish in gear and everything is fine.
That idle seems a bit high to me. How do you determine what the idle should be at? Just to where everything is running good?
I am still going to have the alternator and battery checked out, but this seems to have done the trick for now.
Be certain to pay attention to the points raised by 69CoronetRT.. The bulkhead connections and amp guage scheme used by Mopar can break down due to 40 years of oxidation & moisture.
POP.. The bulkhead connector apart, wire brush the contacts and replace as needed. Coat with dialectric grease, crimp down slightly the female side for a titer connection and snap back together. If upgrading the alternator to a higher rating, than go to a direct wire and voltmeter system.
Just my $0.02..
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Re: Alternator, battery, or grounds....? kinda long
[Re: Bdrainy]
#120966
10/15/08 01:15 AM
10/15/08 01:15 AM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,586 Illinois, Indiana, Louisiana
ProStDodge
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master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,586
Illinois, Indiana, Louisiana
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Make SURE you have a good ground from the battery to BOTH The frame and the engine block, and prefferably a ground strap from the block to the frame.
If the alternator indeed is producing amperage when tested, but the battery is not getting a charge, the problem is likely in the grounding between the frame and the motor.
With the engine running, pull one of the battery cables off battery. If it dies, you are NOT getting power from the alternator.
Scott
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