There needs to be a trophy for such work!

...and to think, some folks are content with laying on the couch all day.

Carry on

At one time I would have thought that the extent of this work was a bit crazy (not that I haven't fixed rustbuckets) and logic still dictates that you try to find as clean a shell as possible.

However, E-bodies were moisture traps: even cars from very dry climates will often have damaged trunk floors, extensions, lower quarters and dutchman panels. So one may wind up replacing much of the same metal anyway.

Given the extensive amount of high-quality reproduction sheetmetal available now it enables a hobbyist to buy a car reasonably and to end up with a shell as good or better than new over time.

Again, I'm enjoying the progress on this one and can't wait for the next update!

Thanks Guys! Yes i do enjoy doing this, there is many highs and lows though. Things are good and then there is more rust, and that pattern continues. When its all done its the ultimate achievement, to be able to look at the pictures from before, during, and then to look at the car, well its satisfying.

Anyways, back to some pics...

I have to make extensive repairs to front end door jamb. As you can see much of the panel is missing...






After repairs...





Now since the car was wrecked we had many issues with the inside webbing on the drivers side. The webbing was mangled and pushed in from wreck. The door jamb was really hacked up to make the door fit originally. This shows the issue...



Before I also had to modify to rocker, the bend where slightly off and not level...






Then i started the webbing repair by making some repair panels...

Before...




Part made...



Installed...



Thats all for now...

Nice work, keep it up. I agree it is very satisfying after the work is complete.

Nice work

Thanks Guys i got some updates...

There was a lot of damage in a lot of parts and contours of the inside webbing on the quarter panel. I spent a lot of time straightening this area. Here it is fix and door jam installed...





I also installed a new AMD pass side jam. The contour was of some but nothing to bad. Great fit overall




I thought i would show you a couple more shots of the original rails before i remove them...






Rails and pans removed. I added locator for the the leaf spring hangers in the rear that work out great, locating the height and the depth with stops. I am also measuring but they put them right on with one side off only a 1/16, and easy fix...








Thats all for now!

Wow, I've been watching along in silence for some time . . . . incredible !

Now for some questions . . .
1) Please tell me your dad is a body shop guy who couldn't afford daycare for you in the early days, forced you to learn a trade at the age of 5 and you have 15 years experience at the start of this project (it would help me to feel better about my capabilities and ambition)

2) Does anyone help you think through your repairs at this point in your work (refer to Q1 above perhaps, or another mentor?)

3) It appears the start car was more of a rolling Jig for you to get pickup points and a roadmap, how many pieces are really going to be the original car when your done? (maybe guess a percentage, and please dont read into this, it's really just a curiosity question)

4) Whoever your mentor is should be commended and thanked, not many your age have the knowledge, ambition, facilities, or financial backing to do what your doing.

I have a good friend thats been a mentor to me, reading through your posts has reminded me to express my appreciation for all he has done.

Take care, and good luck wiith the rest of your project.

Wow holy crap that's a good project right there. Just curious what kind of primer are you using over your repairs?

AAR#2

1) Please tell me your dad is a body shop guy who couldn't afford daycare for you in the early days, forced you to learn a trade at the age of 5 and you have 15 years experience at the start of this project (it would help me to feel better about my capabilities and ambition)

I really wish that was the case here. The truth is i taught myself how to do things by browsing the web, buying the right tools, making mistakes and learning from them. I then landed a welding job which enhanced my skills with metal and welding. When it comes to body work and painting, i owe all of that to a local old timer who i would go to his place after high school and work on projects of his for free in exchange for knowledge.

2) Does anyone help you think through your repairs at this point in your work (refer to Q1 above perhaps, or another mentor?)

No, I honestly spend countless hours thinking of the best and easiest approach to everything. A lot of thinking comes before cutting and then welding. I know the body of these cars inside and out which helps as well.

3) It appears the start car was more of a rolling Jig for you to get pickup points and a roadmap, how many pieces are really going to be the original car when your done? (maybe guess a percentage, and please dont read into this, it's really just a curiosity question)


This is very true, and no offense is taken. When the car is done, i would guess your looking at 10% of the original metal being present. In other words its going to be 90% new metal will last longer. I salvaged the original cowl and rad support, since it had the numbers on it, and the inner webbing of the vehicle.


Stevo427 The Primer that i use in the welding and structural areas that will be covered is 3M weld-thru 2. Its the best product that i have found. Easily welds, unlike others that are galvanizing compound, this does not spit and spatter and blow holes in the clean metal. Its also a corrosion resistant coating that is great in areas that are covered. You can get them in aerosals, but its not cheap about $20 a can.

so how many spot welds do 71 challenger have hahaha you have seemed to cut them all out
im in the process of restoring a 71 challenger as well (my HS graduation present 440sixpack shaker CLONE)
keep up the good work, cant wait to see it done

Alright guys a few updates for you...

I mocked up the rails and two cross members. Fit was pretty good on the parts, a few areas needed addressing...



The inside of the one rail was not straight, easy fix...



Fixed...




Rails and cross members installed...





Keep Tuned...

Very impressive. You are really coming along.

i had to re-breeze through the thread,, when i saw the first photos on page one and NOTICED your shaker firewall hole!! then later you stated it is a "71 challenger R/T 383 shaker car in FJ6" Did Tai get you on the N96 list? and FT? BS?

my EL5 71 N96 is about this bad also! but will be saved, love this thread!! make sure you drill that hole right... and yes, ive had many who think i'm crazy for saving my 71 EL5 car...

Excellent skills and workmanship there.

The work that you're doing is amazing. I know you get about 1 in 3 responses like that but I had to say it. Since we're both on the east coast, what is your method of treating the rust since you're are dealing with such a rusty shell to begin with? Also, are you an epoxy primer kind of guy or etching?

I ask because there will come a time when I break my 71 back down and do it right. I'll aspire to get results like yours to the best of my abilities.

Etching primer is what i use. To properly use expoxy you have to use etch before and it seems like a waste of money if your not going to stowe the car in a corner for a few years. Of course you will have to re etch and apply 2k primer when its gets to the point of body work. But for the time being with the car indoors and constantly being worked i go with etch. There is a huge debate with the two but if you do it right with etch and cover it right after you will be fine

Hey Stephen,Very nice work your doing.can you give me some tips on welding sheet metal with a mig.like wire size,wire speed,arc voltage,range setting.This is my first time welding sheet metal and you look like a good guy to ask.

cudaman440_1 Check your PM's I sent you some basic info...

I did some more work, first had to repair the rail/rocker part...



Repaired...




Rear Butt Pan Drilled and Ready to go in...




Installed...




Rear Floor Pans Installed...



Trunk Braced Installed on new trunk Pan...




Trunk Floor Laid in Ready to be welded...




Thats All for now!

Excellent.

How are you treating the rusty metal that will remain? IE: not rotten, surface rust.

wally426ci Any surface rust that remains will be blasted, and cleaned inside and out. then covered with etch and 2k prim, then into paint, im holding off on that until i have replaced all parts in or around the area of rust, will only be the inner webbing of vehicle really. Which will all be blasted, or has if it was covered and it was given weld thru primer until it can be entirely blasted and prepped for paint...

Steve