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Re: Subframe connectors any reasons not to have them?
[Re: MidPenMopar]
#1206190
03/30/12 04:10 PM
03/30/12 04:10 PM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,179
California
mickm
master
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master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,179
California
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Quote:
Ok that all sounds pretty positive! 
stu,
i'm installing the uscartool ones on mine, will be doing it at gordon's sometime in the future.
not sure i would have someone who isn't familiar with installing these on mopars do it though. gordon did the ones on herb's car, and the ones on john and brenda's car. i would talk with him about it.
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Re: Subframe connectors any reasons not to have them?
[Re: MidPenMopar]
#1206191
03/30/12 04:22 PM
03/30/12 04:22 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 15,134
Kelowna, B.C. Canada
DPelletier
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 15,134
Kelowna, B.C. Canada
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Any reasons not to? sure; if your car is stock and you want to keep it unmodified. I didn't bother with them on my Purestock build as I figured it wouldn't need them with the polyglass tires. If I WAS going to do them, I would definitely use the US car tool contoured ones as I would not want to cut the floor.  Dave
1970 Super Bee 440 Six Pack
1974 'Cuda
2008 Ram 3500 Diesel
2006 Ram 3500 Diesel
2004.5 Ram 2500 Diesel
2003 Ram 3500 Diesel
2006 Durango Limited
[url] http://1970superbee.piczo.com [/url]
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Re: Subframe connectors any reasons not to have them?
[Re: jbc426]
#1206192
03/30/12 05:16 PM
03/30/12 05:16 PM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,945
WI
Dcuda69
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,945
WI
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Quote:
Be sure to add the 4 torque boxes when you add the sub-frame connectors. You may want to consider putting in a lower radiator support while your under there too.
I set mine back enough to clear the radiator tank on my '68. It's easier to put in that way, less intrusive and can be removed pretty easily in the future should the need arise.
You can see it tieing the bottom of the front frame rails together down in there just in front of the fan belt
Sorry to hi-jack, but do you have details on this engine compartment brace? Materials,etc.? Often thought of building one for my BB A-body 
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Re: Subframe connectors any reasons not to have them?
[Re: Dcuda69]
#1206193
03/30/12 05:34 PM
03/30/12 05:34 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,277
West Coast, USA
jbc426
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,277
West Coast, USA
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Quote:
Quote:
Be sure to add the 4 torque boxes when you add the sub-frame connectors. You may want to consider putting in a lower radiator support while your under there too.
I set mine back enough to clear the radiator tank on my '68. It's easier to put in that way, less intrusive and can be removed pretty easily in the future should the need arise.
You can see it tieing the bottom of the front frame rails together down in there just in front of the fan belt
Sorry to hi-jack, but do you have details on this engine compartment brace? Materials,etc.? Often thought of building one for my BB A-body
It's just some angle iron, DOM tubing and a small piece of steel plate at the cowl. Only had to drill a few holes on the cowl pinch weld. Other than those, it bolted on using exsisting bolts.
While not visible in that previous pic, there are also under fender braces and sub-frame connectors from US Cartool.
My factory front shock towers had started to break at the few spot welds that were there, so I welded all that back up as well.
While it's beyond what most people want to get into, it really has transformed the car's chassis.
Last edited by jbc426; 03/30/12 05:36 PM.
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
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Re: Subframe connectors any reasons not to have them?
[Re: 1_WILD_RT]
#1206194
03/30/12 07:14 PM
03/30/12 07:14 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,393
Pikes Peak Country
TC@HP2
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,393
Pikes Peak Country
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Quote:
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Look at the subframe connector threads in the Cornering forum here. I doubt that 1x2 tubing would add that much torsional stiffness. The cowl crack is probably due to a hidden defect from the time the car was built or because of a collision long ago. I recall reading your posts, as I remember, you don't stress your car very much. The connectors may be a waste of effort and $$ if you drive conservatively.
I pretty much agree with this.. Stu you probably don't drive aggressively enough to justify subframe connectors but if you want to add them I don't see any reason not to... But if your gonna do it 1"x2" material isn't worth the trouble.... most guys use 2"x2" or 2"x3"...
Ehhh, I sorta agree but sorta disagree. Sub-frame connectors do not provide a huge amount of support for torsional stiffness, but they do help some. They do provide a large amount of help for increasing overall rigidity, particularly accelleration forces and they do a good job at reducing squeaks, rattles, and panel alignment changes that occur with a 40 year old car, regardless of how hard you drive it. This alone is worth their addition.
Similarly, while 2x3 or 3x3 bisecting the floor are better suited to the application, simple 1x3 tubing, even set in the flattest plane, will improve overall strength enouhg to be noticeable.
Think of it this way, your car is held together by spot welds, just like a shirt with buttons. Gaps between all those welds/buttons allow flex. Adding subframe connectors and/or torque boxes provides additional support for all those welds.
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Re: Subframe connectors any reasons not to have them?
[Re: TC@HP2]
#1206195
03/30/12 07:37 PM
03/30/12 07:37 PM
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 817
Eugene, Oregon
Secret Chimp
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 817
Eugene, Oregon
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I think subframe connectors would help for any car, regardless of how it's driven. My passenger side door seal squeaks whenever I get on or off the brakes with how the chassis flexes from the loading (I don't have connectors yet).
1967 Dodge Coronet Deluxe station wagon
1.03" T-bars, QA1 arms/rods, Cordoba/GM Metric/Volare brake & knuckle, XHDs, Hellwig rear sway, 318 Magnum w/ air gap, 727, 3.23s
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Re: Subframe connectors any reasons not to have them?
[Re: MidPenMopar]
#1206197
03/30/12 08:08 PM
03/30/12 08:08 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,277
West Coast, USA
jbc426
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,277
West Coast, USA
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Quote:
I am looking into them primally to stop any more damage being done to the car having to go up and down the curbs to get in my parking spot. I put in some ramps but the poor car still has to twist a lot as my street is very narrow.
Adding torque boxes and the front lower radiator support when you do the subframe connector installation will help significantly for those types of torsional forces.
The under fender bracing and shock/cowl bracing are helpful too, but it's a lot more work.
Last edited by jbc426; 03/30/12 08:09 PM.
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
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Re: Subframe connectors any reasons not to have them?
[Re: MidPenMopar]
#1206198
03/30/12 08:21 PM
03/30/12 08:21 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,601
Hatfield,Pa.
bigD
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,601
Hatfield,Pa.
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Quote:
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If your gonna do it consider these..
https://store.uscartool.com/66-70-B-Body-Frame-Connectors_p_13.html
A picture of them installed..
http://www.uscartool.com/img/70Superbird/index.html
Ok now i see how they did it. Looks like a very nice job on that Superbird.
If you want a "stock" look this is the way to go , I have CE's on the 68 Charger. Definitly helped IMO,D 
2015 Chrysler200s,2008 Charger R/T R&T,1999 Dakota R/T,1999 Viper ACR,1968 Charger R/T.
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Re: Subframe connectors any reasons not to have them?
[Re: bigD]
#1206199
03/31/12 08:14 PM
03/31/12 08:14 PM
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Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,712
Sacramento, Ca
Darius
master
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master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,712
Sacramento, Ca
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Hey Stu
Here is how mine look on my 70 GTX. I got these fron XV Motorsports. I am not necessarily promoting XV, just saying that is where I got mine. I witnessed a pair from US Car Tool being installed on a 69 Dart and not only was there much grinding and fitting required but there are places where they do NOT and will not ever meet the floor boards. Perhaps some of the gap s can be attributed to "chases" for routing brake lines and fuel lines but I didn't think it needed to be so much based on how the XV units fit....almost perfect out of the box and I had already replaced the floor pan with one from AMD.
Never could understand why guys cut "slots" in the floor to do this other than it is easier to do.
Driving modern convenience in classic beauty
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