I tried a bearing from brewers and one from an auto parts store.They both are too loose in the end of the crank.What can I do to make them fit tighter or keep them from coming out the end of the crank?Help please.

Depending on how loose it is you might try "tattooing" it; go around the outer periphery with a bunch of center punch dimples to expand the diameter and then install it with red Loctite.

Are we talking "bearing" or "bushing"?

I have tried both bearing and bushing that fit the crank hub.They both are to loose.What can I do to make either stay in the crank?I can pull either out by hand.

there are a number of ways to go about it depending on just how loose they are and the condition of the bore in the crank. assuming the bore isn't badly damaged and not too oversize you can do as John suggested and carefully dimple the outside of the bushing with a center punch to make it a tighter fit in the crank. either bearing or bushing should be set with red loctite making sure everything is completely clean before installation. IF they are very loose and IF the bore isn't damaged you might be able to use some shim stock to take up the clearance. shim stock is available in different thickness (.001" increments) and materials usually stainless or brass.

can it be tack welded?can I drill thru the lip and install set screws/I really dont want it coming out.

hi
get some a990 bronze and turn out one that is correct os for your crank !

did it for a gogart clutch years ago , very tough material !

You don't want the one that goes in the torque converter pocket? My eagle crank had a bigger than stock and rough hole for a stock bushing, I used the bearing that presses into where the nose of a convertor goes on an auto car. Lots of guys with under drilled or rough crank bushing holes go with that option sometimes even cutting the nose off the transmission input shaft if the hole's too short.

Did you already try that and I'm telling you something you already know? I was pretty bummed out about my eagle setup till I found out about the other options. Brewers has them among others. The dealership might even have them for stick dakotas or something, that's the original purpose.

Good Luck, hope you're rowin' soon!

Sometimes, for some reason, the final register for converter is trashed and you sortof HAVE to use the orig bronze job, set back to factory location. Seen it a couple times. Kindof a bummer when you already planned on using the larger roller bearing deal.

The ones I am trying to use fit the crank hub where the torque converter goes.

Like others have posted above, just dimple it with a sharp center punch and install it with red Locktite I would use the formula called "stud and bearing mount" I believe it's #271 If that fails then try the shim stock.I think the crank and the metal that holds the bushing are two different types of material and tacking it in there might not be the ideal repair
Gus
These are the ones you tried allready?