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Silly questions????
Any chance you have the wrong sending unit????
Or is something limiting the travel of the float arm when installed????
Step back and look at the problem,
sounds like the solution is probably staring you in the face but your not seeing it, not trying to be a smart a-- but rather help

Tim

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That's what I keep thinking..........It has to be right in front of me but I can't see it.......

I found a pic of the sending unit in the Year One catalog and it looks correct by the pic......I even made sure it's touching the bottom of the tank........and with the unit in the tank with a half a tank of fuel in it, my meter shows it's reading about halfway......

It's a new tank.........and the float moves easily when out of the tank.......even if I hold it sideways a little.......I even made sure that it's indexed correctly while in the tank.......

This thing is kicking my butt.........

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There is also a possibility that the float arm might be lose and if lifted up buy the gasoline it would pull the needle on the rheostat away and not making contact. This is very doubtfull though. i would guess its the ground also.
Dave

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I'd thought of that too, so I took it apart and bent the needle to it hits the rheostat harder........

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Welcome to the world of replacement fuel senders , I don't know of any that work properly ...

Wayne , what it he resistance between the sender body and ground with your ground strap in place ?

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It reads .8 on my meter.........and that's with an additional wire that's clamped to the sending unit and bolted to the frame..........and it still doesn't work........

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I would temporarily run a long jumper wire from the sending unit metal body DIRECTLY all the way up to the batt neg terminal.

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I just got back from doing that and it's still the same......

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When I had redline rebuild my gauges they called me for the ohm measurements on my sending unit and calibrated my gauge to the sending unit.

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What I don't get is, with the float out of the tank, a ground wire clipped from the sending unit to the fuel sender ground strap, it works perfect........I can move it from empty, to half way, to full, and the gauge reads right...........

It's as if the sender being in gasoline is causing the problem......

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I would temporarily run a long jumper wire from the sending unit metal body DIRECTLY all the way up to the batt neg terminal.

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I just got back from doing that and it's still the same......

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When I had redline rebuild my gauges they called me for the ohm measurements on my sending unit and calibrated my gauge to the sending unit.

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What I don't get is, with the float out of the tank, a ground wire clipped from the sending unit to the fuel sender ground strap, it works perfect........I can move it from empty, to half way, to full, and the gauge reads right...........

It's as if the sender being in gasoline is causing the problem......

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I would temporarily run a long jumper wire from the sending unit metal body DIRECTLY all the way up to the batt neg terminal.

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I just got back from doing that and it's still the same......

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When I had redline rebuild my gauges they called me for the ohm measurements on my sending unit and calibrated my gauge to the sending unit.

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What I don't get is, with the float out of the tank, a ground wire clipped from the sending unit to the fuel sender ground strap, it works perfect........I can move it from empty, to half way, to full, and the gauge reads right...........

It's as if the sender being in gasoline is causing the problem......

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Wayne I did a tongue in cheek back and forth with someone else recently on this EXACT SUBJECT and I asked this question which I got no reply to .

How do you know that the level you are raising it to is the actual level its going to inside the tank when its full of fuel ?

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How do you know that the level you are raising it to is the actual level its going to inside the tank when its full of fuel ?

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In other words what reading are you getting?

Remember your tank is only 12" tall or so and long and wide.

This means that if the car is jacked up in the rear the fuel will move to one side and the level in the tank will be off.

Also you may have to bend your float arm so when the car is level and half full of gas the guage will read the same.

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I have the car on my drive on, 4 post lift, so the car is sitting just as it would be on the ground......

I've also bent the float arm so it would make the fuel gauge read even higher (which I've done in the past on different cars and it's moved the needle to where I've wanted).........

It kills me that with the sender out of the car and hooked up, I can move it through it's travel, and the gauge works correctly!!! That keeps me thinking it's a ground problem, but I think I've eliminated that by running a heavy gauge wire from the sender to the battery!!! Where's the head bangin' the wall emoticon???

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It might be partly a ground problem as .8 ohms isn't really 0.

any idea what the original sender read when it was at half a tank ?

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What's odd is, I can use that exact same ground wire, attached to the sender with it out of the car, and it works!!!


The guy brought this car to me like this.......

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how do you know what you have in the tank is actually half a tank ?

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When I'd found that the float had a hole in it and was full of fuel, I'd installed a new float and filled it up with fuel.......On the way home the gauge slowly worked it's way up to the half way mark........so I figured I'd drain some fuel, bend the float lever to make the gauge read higher, and then reassemble........I drained 6 gallons out from full and that's just below the bottom of where the sender goes in.......so I know I'm 6 gallons from full.........

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I'm not sure what my Dart has for a sender , my tank is painted on the outside , but when I fill it , the fill nozzle shuts off and spits fuel down the side of the car , it only reads 3/4.

I have a new sender , 3/8 line , and I have a new sender for my Bee also , I am NOT looking forward to replacing the senders .

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I've been down this road before, a bunch of times.....and have never had one get the best of me..........

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The thing is that the sender needs to be in the lowest position to be able to get it back into the tank...... I had thought about putting it in bucket of fuel to see if it reads any different.......

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You might bend the steel fuel line part enough so that it will go in & then bend it back later. I would not think doing 2 large radius bends would cause any fatigue issues. We got to get to the bottom of this but I think dunking it might be informative.

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As far as metal lines from the sending unit, I have two - the 3/8 for the fuel and the 5/16 for the return. Does it matter which one is grounded? Thank you.

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Thanks guys.

So, if I was to go with the 12 ga. wire approach as was suggested earlier, I can just use a small hose clamp to secure this to an exposed portion of either of the two metal lines from the sending unit and secure the other side to the chassis, correct? Thanks!

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