Non-restoration-level rustproofing?
#1189726
03/02/12 04:31 PM
03/02/12 04:31 PM
|
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 817
Eugene, Oregon
Secret Chimp
OP
super stock
|
OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 817
Eugene, Oregon
|
I want to take care of some of the mild rust on the insides of my wagon before it gets to the cancer level. I don't have any exterior rust save for the bottom of the spare tire well, but when I thumped my rear quarters with the body plugs taken out I got a good cup's worth of rust chips from the insides. I imagine the insides of my doors are roughly in the same shape. I don't have the means to tear my car apart and repaint it, so I want to take care of this stuff on an area-treatment basis.
I've read up on different products and it sounds like an effective and cheap first step would be some phosphoric acid - just put it in one of those pump-up pesticide sprayers with a four-hole cross tip and squirt away.
I've also had oil-type products like Waxoyl recommended but I'm not sure if that would be good as a step 1 or a step 2 final protection measure.
1967 Dodge Coronet Deluxe station wagon
1.03" T-bars, QA1 arms/rods, Cordoba/GM Metric/Volare brake & knuckle, XHDs, Hellwig rear sway, 318 Magnum w/ air gap, 727, 3.23s
|
|
|
Re: Non-restoration-level rustproofing?
[Re: Secret Chimp]
#1189729
03/02/12 09:12 PM
03/02/12 09:12 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 252
Seattle, WA.
edp
enthusiast
|
enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 252
Seattle, WA.
|
do with this what you will but these guys are serious pro level painters, I'd head their advice. read this thread on rust proofing & Ospho before doing anything. A wire wheel to clean out the rust in the pits if there's any collected is best then epoxy paint it.Do your self a favor & dont put acid treatments & oil coatings in your car, if you ever want to repaint it you've screwed yourself. You can wire wheel off the rust & spot spray epoxy or even brush it on. http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?8-What-every-new-painter-must-read!&highlight=ospho
Last edited by edp; 03/02/12 09:15 PM.
|
|
|
Re: Non-restoration-level rustproofing?
[Re: edp]
#1189730
03/02/12 10:04 PM
03/02/12 10:04 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,835
Kirkland, Washington
Pacnorthcuda
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,835
Kirkland, Washington
|
Ospho is phosphoric acid, as is rust-mort, and MANY other brands, including the old Naval Jelly (Naval Jelly is weak though).
Yes it works, and a follow up with oil (in the case of the OP's daily driver) is a good idea. If you have access above the area you could also pour POR15 and let it flow---POR15 will flow REALLY well, and effectively seal the backside from further moisture.
Not a total cure-all, but it will slow things down big time
|
|
|
Re: Non-restoration-level rustproofing?
[Re: edp]
#1189731
03/02/12 11:06 PM
03/02/12 11:06 PM
|
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 817
Eugene, Oregon
Secret Chimp
OP
super stock
|
OP
super stock
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 817
Eugene, Oregon
|
Quote:
do with this what you will but these guys are serious pro level painters, I'd head their advice.
read this thread on rust proofing & Ospho before doing anything. A wire wheel to clean out the rust in the pits if there's any collected is best then epoxy paint it.Do your self a favor & dont put acid treatments & oil coatings in your car, if you ever want to repaint it you've screwed yourself. You can wire wheel off the rust & spot spray epoxy or even brush it on.
http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?8-What-every-new-painter-must-read!&highlight=ospho
Regardless of any effects down the line for deeper work I go for, I want to nip any rust in the bud. Buggering with paint is a better option to me than repairing rear quarters on a station wagon (parts from on back of the rear doors are almost impossible to find).
Though I do see the problem with using oils and then attempting to paint later (like 20 years from now when I have that kind of money).
However I don't really understand why Ospho by itself would be a problem for painting. It seems like the remarks regarding epoxy or fillers are for situations when Ospho was over-applied and left behind in its original acid form, not after reacting to make iron phosphate. If I use that stuff, shoot a garden hose up in through the body plug the next day to rinse off any unreacted acid, dry it, and then fog the inside of the panel with some primer and paint, wouldn't that be effective and safe for any future complete repaint I do on this car?
1967 Dodge Coronet Deluxe station wagon
1.03" T-bars, QA1 arms/rods, Cordoba/GM Metric/Volare brake & knuckle, XHDs, Hellwig rear sway, 318 Magnum w/ air gap, 727, 3.23s
|
|
|
Re: Non-restoration-level rustproofing?
[Re: Secret Chimp]
#1189732
03/02/12 11:16 PM
03/02/12 11:16 PM
|
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,744
Florida
BDW
master
|
master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,744
Florida
|
Quote:
It seems like the remarks regarding epoxy or fillers are for situations when Ospho was over-applied and left behind in its original acid form, not after reacting to make iron phosphate.
Bingo, Ospho works but if it doesn't react and turn white, it remains a semi-liquid form that must be removed before painting. No rocket science here, it's a chemical reaction.
|
|
|
Re: Non-restoration-level rustproofing?
[Re: Secret Chimp]
#1189733
03/03/12 12:55 PM
03/03/12 12:55 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 72
NewEngland ( Ma, Ct )
MoparJoeMA
member
|
member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 72
NewEngland ( Ma, Ct )
|
Get yourself a bottle of Rust-Mort and a trigger sprayer, Clean it up a bit if you can get to it, spray it with the rustmort per directions. It will convert it and then you can oil it, prime it do what ever you want with it.Its cost effective easy to work with and it works great. And if you have future paint work to do down the line it won't be a problem. Use it all the time in the shop. Yoour other option is rustmort it them get some LPS3-kinda like a cosmoline and spray it with that. 
|
|
|
|
|
