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Re: " dingleberry" hones....
[Re: DaytonaTurbo]
#1177727
02/14/12 04:01 PM
02/14/12 04:01 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 12,008
Finally a HUSKER again
Moparnut426
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 12,008
Finally a HUSKER again
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I like to use them also, Dad always tought me to use a strong soapy water mix it helps to clean the cylinders as they are being honed. I used a very strong detergent and water mix on the 340 I just did that had sat after a machine shop bored and honed it, They let it sit too long on its side and had a few rust spots. After sheep sh#t honeing it, they cam out really nice, and I hardly had any mess in the cylinders to clean up after I was done.
Reading the cylinders with my dial bore gauge told me they still were true, and had no taper, so I ran with it.
Some guys use wd40 as a lube, some use hone oil, some use engine oil, its your preferance I guess.
Kasey
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Re: " dingleberry" hones....
[Re: Moparnut426]
#1177728
02/14/12 09:27 PM
02/14/12 09:27 PM
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 370
beedees
OP
enthusiast
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OP
enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 370
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Quote:
I like to use them also, Dad always tought me to use a strong soapy water mix it helps to clean the cylinders as they are being honed. I used a very strong detergent and water mix on the 340 I just did that had sat after a machine shop bored and honed it, They let it sit too long on its side and had a few rust spots. After sheep sh#t honeing it, they cam out really nice, and I hardly had any mess in the cylinders to clean up after I was done.
Reading the cylinders with my dial bore gauge told me they still were true, and had no taper, so I ran with it.
Some guys use wd40 as a lube, some use hone oil, some use engine oil, its your preferance I guess.
Kasey
Never heard of using soapy water for honing before, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. It would serve the same purpose as honing oil...cool, lubricate and flush out the residue.
As for BRM recommending using only a flex hone on a fresh bore, that sounds stupid to me. You need to hone at least .003" to get past the fractured metal after boring. A platue finish finish takes about 4 sepate steps to get and requires a 600 grit stone, no metal is removed and is more of a burnishing. 
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Re: " dingleberry" hones....
[Re: beedees]
#1177729
02/14/12 10:52 PM
02/14/12 10:52 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 892
USA
krw71ragtop
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 892
USA
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Quote:
Thanks for the info, guys. Never used one in 25 yrs. of machine work. (kinda miss my CK10 now) Wheres the best place to get one and what grits are they available in? Thanks
I just purchased one from Amazon #GB41832 (320). Hope this helps.
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Re: " dingleberry" hones....
[Re: krw71ragtop]
#1177730
02/15/12 07:14 PM
02/15/12 07:14 PM
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,025
Las Vegas, NV
dodgeboy11
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,025
Las Vegas, NV
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Only time I ever used one was when a customer wanted a touch up on a used engine. I would run the ball hone through to get in the ridge, then I would put it in the CK10 and give it a few strokes. This way it would "appear" to have crosshatch at the top of the ring travel. My  is that if you have no other recourse, use the ball hone. But if you want it done the right way (not necessarily the quickest or cheapest), take it to a machine shop and have it honed in a rigid machine.
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