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" dingleberry" hones.... #1177706 02/13/12 03:39 PM 02/13/12 03:39 PM
Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 370 B beedees OP enthusiast
beedees OP enthusiast B Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 370	anybody ever use one? The good,the bad , the ugly? In the process of a fast and nasty re-ring on a brand C engine. Thanks

Re: " dingleberry" hones.... [Re: beedees] #1177707 02/13/12 04:27 PM 02/13/12 04:27 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 25,885 Rio Linda, CA John_Kunkel Too Many Posts
John_Kunkel Too Many Posts Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 25,885 Rio Linda, CA	They work good as a glaze-breaker, they're all I use anymore. The INTERNET, the MISinformation superhighway

Re: " dingleberry" hones.... [Re: John_Kunkel] #1177708 02/13/12 04:30 PM 02/13/12 04:30 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 25,200 Upper Midwest M MoparforLife Too Many Posts
MoparforLife Too Many Posts M Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 25,200 Upper Midwest	Quote: They work good as a glaze-breaker, they're all I use anymore.

Re: " dingleberry" hones.... [Re: John_Kunkel] #1177709 02/13/12 04:33 PM 02/13/12 04:33 PM
Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 21,345 Marysville, O-H-I-O 70Cuda383 Too Many Posts
70Cuda383 Too Many Posts Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 21,345 Marysville, O-H-I-O	I used one on 2 engines now. works great, very easy to use. don't over spin them on the speed, or you'll find a dingle berry or 2 will pull through the middle, and you'll get one really long and one really short ball opposite of each other. oil up the stones, spin it slowly as you stab it in the hole, keep it at a 100-200 rpm while going up and down in the hole 10-12 strokes. pay attention to your cross hatch pattern, and adjust your stroke speed to match your RPM for a nice 45 degree cross hatch. After I've done the 10-12 stroke and get a good fresh cross hatch, I like to do 3-5 strokes while spinning the drill backwards, then wipe it down with paper towels and ATF to get all the grit and grime out of the cylinder. then wash the whole block with soapy water, dry it, wipe everything down with ATF again, then start assembly! For what the local machine shop charges for a hone job, I'll just buy a ball flex hone and do it myself. already the purchase of the hone has paid for itself, by doing 2 engine blocks with it. Photobucket sucks

Re: " dingleberry" hones.... [Re: beedees] #1177710 02/13/12 04:50 PM 02/13/12 04:50 PM
Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 11,543 chicagoland,usa B buildanother I Live Here
buildanother I Live Here B Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 11,543 chicagoland,usa	Have used them for almost 30 years, and they do wear out if you use the crap out of it. Only issue I ever had was the many in frame cavalier piston replacements I did, the short cylinder height and all, that sometimes you can go a little too low in the cylinder and a stone can get caught between counterweight and skirt of cyl block, tears the stone right off.

Re: " dingleberry" hones.... [Re: buildanother] #1177711 02/13/12 05:01 PM 02/13/12 05:01 PM
Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 370 B beedees OP enthusiast
beedees OP enthusiast B Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 370	Thanks for the info, guys. Never used one in 25 yrs. of machine work. (kinda miss my CK10 now) Wheres the best place to get one and what grits are they available in? Thanks

Re: " dingleberry" hones.... [Re: buildanother] #1177712 02/13/12 05:01 PM 02/13/12 05:01 PM
Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 27,347 Today? Who Knows? 1_WILD_RT Management Trainee
1_WILD_RT Management Trainee Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 27,347 Today? Who Knows?	Quote: Have used them for almost 30 years, and they do wear out if you use the crap out of it. Only issue I ever had was the many in frame cavalier piston replacements I did, the short cylinder height and all, that sometimes you can go a little too low in the cylinder and a stone can get caught between counterweight and skirt of cyl block, tears the stone right off. Honing in frame I would drop a plywood disc in the hole to keep from going to deep... The rings never get all the way down the bore so theres no need to hone that far.... "The Armies of our ancestors were lucky, in that they were not trailed by a second army of pencil pushers."

Re: " dingleberry" hones.... [Re: 1_WILD_RT] #1177713 02/13/12 05:09 PM 02/13/12 05:09 PM
Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 11,543 chicagoland,usa B buildanother I Live Here
buildanother I Live Here B Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 11,543 chicagoland,usa	We had to get it done fast! Warranty time you know. Never nicked a crankpin, so all was well.

Re: " dingleberry" hones.... [Re: buildanother] #1177714 02/13/12 06:08 PM 02/13/12 06:08 PM
Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 20,185 PA. pittsburghracer "Little"John
pittsburghracer "Little"John Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 20,185 PA.	I get mine from a guy at our local auto parts swap meet but if you can't find any local I found these with a quick search. http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=cylinder%20hones&dds=1 1970 Duster Edelbrock headed 408 5.984@112.52 422 Indy headed small block 5.982@112.56 mph 9.42@138.27 Livin and lovin life one day at a time

Re: " dingleberry" hones.... [Re: pittsburghracer] #1177715 02/13/12 06:21 PM 02/13/12 06:21 PM
Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 3,897 Oregon hooziewhatsit master
hooziewhatsit master Joined: Oct 2007 Posts: 3,897 Oregon	Any particular grit that should be used? And, any particular type of ring you should use, or shouldn't use, with this type of hone? If you ever find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck.

Re: " dingleberry" hones.... [Re: beedees] #1177716 02/13/12 06:23 PM 02/13/12 06:23 PM
Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 28,312 Cincinnati, Ohio Challenger 1 Too Many Posts
Challenger 1 Too Many Posts Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 28,312 Cincinnati, Ohio	I used to use them, until I got laughed at, at the track. It was suggested that I invest in a real hone by my crew chief/tuner, who is a 5 time world champ in TAD who was doing the laughing. Since then I have had way better luck rebuilding motors and have had great ring seal. If your gonna do it again and again, I would invest in one. It's cheaper than a CK-10. Also need a dial bore gauge, a big drill and big arms.

Re: " dingleberry" hones.... [Re: Challenger 1] #1177717 02/13/12 06:48 PM 02/13/12 06:48 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 16,376 D dogdays I Live Here
dogdays I Live Here D Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 16,376	They're not a joke, they have valid uses. Brush Research Manufacturing makes them. They're called flex hones or brush hones or ball hones. When you're reringing an engine they work without having to use a torque plate, they follow the cylinder better than a rigid hone like the Sunnen pictured above. You may find them in many places. BRM makes many different kinds of ball hones for many different applications. When boring and honing a cylinder sometimes the flex hone is the last step after the rigid hone, because it creates a surface with more flat area. It also cleans up the tiny folded bits of metal and sharp points. Look at the photomicrographs on the BRM website to see what I'm talking about. They do not work well to produce a true cylindrical surface like the rigid hone. But if your cylinder is cylindrical enough in operation (warm with the head bolted on) they can get you a surface for the rings to seat on if you're concerned about them not seating otherwise... R.

Re: " dingleberry" hones.... [Re: dogdays] #1177718 02/13/12 09:45 PM 02/13/12 09:45 PM
Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska R RapidRobert Circle Track
RapidRobert Circle Track R Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska	They work excellent for a rering as they remove little to no material plus give an excellent plateau'd finish. The out of round/taper you had before is the out of round taper you'll have now. Follow their instructions for drill speed/rate etc. They (BRM) have a list of OEM/aftermarket satisfied users a mile long who swear by it. Best use is to bore and ck-10 rigid hone to size then plateau it w the dingleberry. They (BRM) want you to bore to size then dingleberry w no rigid hone, I disagree there, the ball hone only hits/creates the surface plateau not deeper like a rigid hone does & prob is then you can easily wear past the plateau's and be into rough territory but you need the ball hone for the final plateau that the rigid hone does not deliver live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth

Re: " dingleberry" hones.... [Re: Challenger 1] #1177719 02/13/12 10:53 PM 02/13/12 10:53 PM
Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 4,799 ILL M MLR426 master
MLR426 master M Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 4,799 ILL	Quote: I used to use them, until I got laughed at, at the track. It was suggested that I invest in a real hone by my crew chief/tuner, who is a 5 time world champ in TAD who was doing the laughing. Since then I have had way better luck rebuilding motors and have had great ring seal. If your gonna do it again and again, I would invest in one. It's cheaper than a CK-10. Also need a dial bore gauge, a big drill and big arms. I have that rigid hone kit and it's available through my Radiac Abrasives auto aftermarket engine rebuilding and shop supplies catalog. 800-223-0457 ask for Lori or Jim. logan426

Re: " dingleberry" hones.... [Re: RapidRobert] #1177720 02/13/12 11:54 PM 02/13/12 11:54 PM
Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 343 S.E.Mich D drew72 enthusiast
drew72 enthusiast D Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 343 S.E.Mich	Quote: They work excellent for a rering as they remove little to no material plus give an excellent plateau'd finish. The out of round/taper you had before is the out of round taper you'll have now. Follow their instructions for drill speed/rate etc. They (BRM) have a list of OEM/aftermarket satisfied users a mile long who swear by it. Best use is to bore and ck-10 rigid hone to size then plateau it w the dingleberry. They (BRM) want you to bore to size then dingleberry w no rigid hone, I disagree there, the ball hone only hits/creates the surface plateau not deeper like a rigid hone does & prob is then you can easily wear past the plateau's and be into rough territory but you need the ball hone for the final plateau that the rigid hone does not deliver Sorry, but anybody that owns or uses a ck10 or cv616 should already know that the final step in honing a performance block is to use a plateau stone. There is a place for a ball hone, but not on a freshly finished cylinder bore.

Re: " dingleberry" hones.... [Re: MLR426] #1177721 02/14/12 01:42 AM 02/14/12 01:42 AM
Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 7,274 s.w.fl B bonefish master
bonefish master B Joined: Nov 2004 Posts: 7,274 s.w.fl	what grit and size would be recomended for a simple deglaze on a 440.?

Re: " dingleberry" hones.... [Re: bonefish] #1177722 02/14/12 06:52 AM 02/14/12 06:52 AM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 8,941 Holly/MI D Dean_Kuzluzski master
Dean_Kuzluzski master D Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 8,941 Holly/MI	Quote: what grit and size would be recomended for a simple deglaze on a 440.? The paperwork with my piston rings says "220-280". Summit Racing sells a 240 grit. R.I.P.- Gary "Coop" Davis 02/09/68-05/13/04

Re: " dingleberry" hones.... [Re: Dean_Kuzluzski] #1177723 02/14/12 11:05 AM 02/14/12 11:05 AM
Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska R RapidRobert Circle Track
RapidRobert Circle Track R Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska	Quote: The paperwork with my piston rings says "220-280". iron rings or moly rings? live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth

Re: " dingleberry" hones.... [Re: RapidRobert] #1177724 02/14/12 11:30 AM 02/14/12 11:30 AM
Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 21,345 Marysville, O-H-I-O 70Cuda383 Too Many Posts
70Cuda383 Too Many Posts Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 21,345 Marysville, O-H-I-O	Quote: Quote: The paperwork with my piston rings says "220-280". iron rings or moly rings? Yes, ring design/material determines what grit to use!! old style, original cast iron rings, then you want the rougher 220-280 grits. with moly, you want finer, like around 320. And yes, on a re-ring job, the flexball hone is great for the reasons mentioned above. again, it won't allow you to final hone to size for your piston to wall clearance, and I wouldn't use it to hone a freshly bored cylinder, but if all you're doing is re-ringing a cylinder that was already properly machined, then they work great. saying that they remove minimal material is an understatement. I say they remove NO material, and only rough up the surface to allow the new rings to seat. the last engine I did, after running the hone through a few times, I still had slight discoloration at the top of the bore from the carbon staining above the top ring. carbon was gone and the finish was smooth to the touch, but you could still see the brown ring around the top of the bore. Which doesn't really matter anyway, if youre using the same rods, pistons, etc. and just putting in new rings, since the old rings left carbon there, the new rings will never be rubbing there either. Photobucket sucks

Re: " dingleberry" hones.... [Re: hooziewhatsit] #1177725 02/14/12 03:34 PM 02/14/12 03:34 PM
Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 21,318 Manitoba, Canada DaytonaTurbo Too Many Posts
DaytonaTurbo Too Many Posts Joined: Feb 2003 Posts: 21,318 Manitoba, Canada	Last time I did one was a smogger 440 and I used a 3-stone hone instead of a dingleberry hone. It works just fine too. Engine ran well afterwards too. Quote: Any particular grit that should be used? And, any particular type of ring you should use, or shouldn't use, with this type of hone? Best choice for a backyard hone'n're-ring is hastings cast rings. They are said to be a little more tolerant to bore specs than some other brands but regular cast rings on a whole are said to be more tolerant to bore sizes and grits that aren't exactly to spec. Last one I did, I used a set of sealed power cast rings.

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