I have tried two new switches, the car starts fine in park & neutral. the back up lights will not come on with everything hooked up. It is getting power from the one side but is not closing the loop and sending power back to the power block on the firewall through the 2nd wire. if i jump the plug end @ the switch end the brake lights come on.if i plug the switch in with it not screwed into the trans the back up lights come on. I looked in the trans with the switch out and it seems to be in the correct position, What is my problem?

There was this similar post about a year ago:

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...rue#Post3497079

You can "test" the switch to see if the "reverse" portion of the Neutral-Safety/Backup Switch is functional.

Beyond that, the wiring (and you have checked the fuse too) and the light-bulbs/sockets (no corrosion, filament intact, etc) and beyond that it could be the contact-arm inside the transmission.

Process of elimination. Funny how sometimes it turns out to be something like corrosion, etc.

Good Luck.

the back up lights work fine when i jump the power side with the return side of the plug. they also work when i have the switch plugged up but out of the trans. so it has something to do with when the switch is installed. like something is out of line, i almost thought i screwed the switch in to tight but that did not seem to work either.

is it me or did u write BRAKE lights come on when u jump it?

oops, i meant back up lights.

Here's the scoup...The aftermarket switches come with the center pin too long...You'll need to file the center pin so when it drops into the rooster comb rev. detent the switch plunger bottoms out and the your rev. lights will come on...I've had to file every aftermarket switch I've installed the past few years to get the rev. lights to work...This really should go in the tech archives seeing how many times a year this new aftermarket switch problem comes up....

There is a metal pin in the center of the plastic bushing in the switch, in order for the BU light circuit in the switch to close, the pin must be able to extend into the "divot" in the plastic shoe inside the transmission (see pic below).

If there is something plugging the divot or if the divot is not centered in the hole in Reverse the BU portion of the switch can't function.

Be real careful screwing that switch in thier its possible to break that plastic piecs off just past the metal and the your backup lights come on in all forward gears. Ask me how I know

Thanks all, yes the filing of the tit on the end of the switch worked. I now have back up lights. This needs to go in the Tech tips.

I put a NOS switch in my car. The cheap aftermarket one lasted about six months for me. Mike