IT HAS THE MOPAR 484 LIFT CAM IN IT WITH 10 LBS VACUMN WITH 3.5 POWER VALVE. I DON'T KNOW AFTER THESE RESPONSES IF I SHOULD GO AFTER TIMING ADVANCE OR CARBS. I HAVE THE VACUMN OF OF THE DIST. NOW.THE CARBS SEEM PRETTY CLOSE

THANKS MOPARTS

I still think it should have a 55 or 65 powervalve. with vacuum low like that the holes in your primary butterflies could be opened up a couple drill sizes. no bigger than 1/8 inch though. I think they are about 1/16 stock but my carbs always get holes opened up to 3/32 then 1/8 if needed. if the throttle blades can be closed more you can stabilize the idle usually.
And pay good attention to your idle mix screw position. mine always end up out a little more than usually recommended. if they are in too far you could end up with an unstable idle in gear too.

Don.

Sorry for hi-jacking this thread,but I'm going thru a similar problem with my six bbl setup.
I have 9" vacuum and after reading this thread thought maybe I would change power valve because car don't want to idle,it also will water your eyes.The idle seems to flux around after being fully warmed up-either goes from 650rpm to 1300 rpm.So I changed to a 4.5 PV last nite (1/2 vacuum).Idle seems much improved now.still waters eyes.If I cover center carb for a sec.with hand and let go ,it will rise high in rpm.Is that normal?sprayed carb cleaner all around,can't find a leak.Jets are 70's in center.Should I jet down by 2?Should I buy new valley pan?

that cam has very little vacuum at idle. i ran the 3.5 pv with that cam in a sb

SO YOU THINK A 5.0 POWER VALVE WOULD HELP INSTEAD OF THE 3.5 I HAVE IN NOW SINCE I HAVE 10 LBS VACUMN

Everyone with "6 pk problems"

Please would you advance the intial timing to 18 degrees and don't forget the distributor curve rework. And then would you open the outboard adj mixture screws at least 1 turn out?

You have to make these adjustments or it will not run right. We are not kidding just go do it and then finish the rest. This is not k mart, it will not run out of the box

distributor first,
carbs second.

Quote:

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And then would you open the outboard adj mixture screws at least 1 turn out?

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1 turn mught make it too rich. I would start out with 1/2 turn out.

you'll adjust these screws just like the center carb, except you can't just use a vacumm/ tach gauge,....look into the top of the front end carb, you see 2 small projections in each bore on each side, just below the neck, these are the air bleeds, block off the outer bleed using your finger over the small tiny hole, with the motor running at idle (low), it should stumble or pick up in idle, when you block off, either outboard bleed, set the front carb first, pick a bore, left or right, with it's coresponding baseplate idle screw, block the bleed off with your finger,(make sure the carbs throttle plate is fully closed) do one side at a time, when you block the bleed, if the idle increases, too much fuel, remove your finger, turn the base screw on the side your blocking the bleed on, in, one turn, block the bleed again, listen for the idle, (you could use a tach gauge at this point), if it stumbles/ decreases, no fuel, back the base screw off a half turn, block the air bleed again see where the "idle" is,......keep adjusting in this fashion until there's no change in idle, no increase/ decrease, you now have the ideal fuel/ air ratio for the vacummm requirement on your motor


this really does work

I found this to be some what helpful also.

http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm

The inital setting on the idle mixture screws on the metering block, Is it 1 1/2 turns out?

I don't think you'll even find 2-1/2 turns out to be rich enough for a low vacuum engine. At 1-1/2 turns it probably won't run.

Don.

I thought 1 1/2 turns was the factory setting.
What are your results on 2 1/2 turns out?

Everyone with "6 pk problems"

Please would you advance the intial timing to 18 degrees and don't forget the distributor curve rework. And then would you open the outboard adj mixture screws at least 1 turn out?

You have to make these adjustments or it will not run right. We are not kidding just go do it and then finish the rest. This is not k mart, it will not run out of the box

And should I keep my total timing at 38 degrees?

Thanks for the info as im looking for a real close starting point,Im running a .650 lift cam with 10 to 12 hg intak vacume.Timing set to 38 when all in.Msd Dist With The Light Springs Installed. Im smoking thru the pipes but might be from no oil line restrictor on my indy heads.

Checked mine tonight, were 3-1/8 turns out. That's where they work best for me.I have 15 or 16 initial and 35 total timing, all in by 2200.
And stock 65 powervalves, 10 inches vacuum at idle in neutral, 8.5-9.0 in gear.
I use my vacuum advance too.

Don.

This has been a great string of info.

Let me see if I can really get everyone upset by seeing if I can summarize what I have learned, heard, etc. from this and the other posts.

For a stock 440 or one with a moderate cam:

16 to 18 initial timing, 36 to 38 full advance. The new Mopar electronic dist. can be modified for total advance using the Mallory (MAA-29014) plastic gauge kit.

Distributor springs should kick in about 100 rpm higher than what the car is idling at and advance fully in place no later than 2500 rpm. (per the Mallory instructions on the idle setting)

Power Valve shoud be set at 1/2 the vacuum reading you get on the center carb, with the car in neutral.

Outboard carbs, for an automatic, should have their idle mixture screws opened over one turn, maybe one and a quarter to one and a half (per Larry Shepard's tuning book on the outside number). Sticks seem to work at 3/4 to one turn. Use the finger trick on the outboard carbs once close to set. (By the way, I can adjust my rear outboard carb on the car by using a very long, thin, screwdriver that I got at Ace and by my having replaced the mixture screws with new Holley screws, which stick out further on the baseplate. I go at each at an angle and can just get each one)

Center carb idle mixture is adjusted using a vacuum gauge, going for highest vacuum, with the car in gear. Vacuum seems to vary wildly by car but 10 to 14 seems to be the range. 10 being low and should be investigated for leaks and other set up issues unless the cam is large.

Carb jets on the center carb should probably be at 64 or maybe higher. The 62 that is stock is too lean.

Vacuum advance usage on the dist. is trial and error as you drive.

OK...what did I miss or get wrong?

sorry to highjack but is 16-18 degrees timing also recommended for a SB with a 6 pack?

If you go back and find some of 62MAXWGN's post on 6pks you will probably find your answers.He has probably forgotten more than most of us know about how to make them work and fix existing problems.