hi i have 69 roadrunner thats tubbed with a 4 link and ford 9 inch.the engine is a 440 bored .30 over with forged dome pistons im guessing about 11 to 1 compression,292comp cam, ported 944 heads,torkerII intake with a 2 inch spacer,barry grant 850 cfm carb,and large tube headers, 3 inch exhaust.after many problems with the stock ignition i installed an msd 6al box and an msd pro billet distributer. runs much better now but i havent messed with the springs or stoppers in the distributer yet and i know there not right cant seem to find any info on correct timing curve,what initial,what toatal and the curve any advice would be super helpful

Mike in New Zealand here.
Have had plenty of pratice here. You want 36 Total & around 20 degree's initial.
Only way to do this on stock dizzy is weld-up the slots that advance weight posts slide in.
Easy way is weld in more than needed, probably about 1/3 of length of slot & round file it back from there. "You'll get used tio pulling it apart."
Use a heavy & medium spring; but myself, i only have one light spring & as soon as it starts, it has full advance. Only slightest clatter in top-gear to about 1400 rpm. I do have good quench though.
Hope this helps.
Mike.

For more info, check out my answer on Topic; "Changing Heads"

this msd pro billet dist has a few different stoppers to set toatal timing and a few different sets of springs for the curve it does seem to run best with about 15-20 degrees initial and you answered about the toatal but do you know what rpm it should be toataly advanced thanks for the help

I would suggest about 2000 rpm & if it clatters at that, stiffen up on the springs & if not, try lighter spring for it advancing earlier.
Ideally, you want it full-on soon-as, without the pinking.
Mike.

Someone at Pertronix must read Mopar Action. When I verified the curve in my new Pertronics distrubitor it matched these specs from the Mopar Action archives to the letter. The 440 in my 66 Coronet runs very nice now.

http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/quest/SLOW_CURVE.html

Quote:

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Bob, assuming sufficient octane vs. C.R., you need a curve something close to this:

Under 1400RPM - no advance - set initial at 15 degrees BTDC
2000 - 10 dergees mech (25 total)
2500 - 20 degrees mech (35 total) - all in.

Plus, at LEAST 15 degrees of vacuum advance under light throttle (50 deg. total, 52-55 better).

If it currently doesn't go to full advance until 5500, you're giving up lots of power.

If it currently has less (or no) vacuum advance), you're giving up LOTS of fuel economy and fouling plugs.

Rick

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The stoppers determine the range of advance from initial to full, start with the blue stopper. That will allow for 21 degrees of advance or 14 initial and 35 full advance. If you want all your timing in at 2500RPM use the light blue spring and the light silver spring. Adjust accordingly. This can all be calculated from the tables in the instructions, if you don't have them you can get them on the MSD or Summit sites

Ken

Have a read of this document.

http://www.jefframin.org/library/distributorRecurving.doc