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Re: restoring LCA's [Re: 70runner] #1150685
01/07/12 09:00 PM
01/07/12 09:00 PM
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Chicago
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curbman68 Offline
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Quote:

Eastwood gold tint; also used the lower reinforcements.







Little off topic, but what year did the sway bar mount move from the end near the shock bolt to the middle near the rubber bumper?

Re: restoring LCA's [Re: curbman68] #1150686
01/07/12 10:50 PM
01/07/12 10:50 PM
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So Cal
autoxcuda Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

Eastwood gold tint; also used the lower reinforcements.







Little off topic, but what year did the sway bar mount move from the end near the shock bolt to the middle near the rubber bumper?




1970 B-bodies. All E-bodies.

And 73-76 A-bodies.

Re: restoring LCA's [Re: autoxcuda] #1150687
01/08/12 12:11 AM
01/08/12 12:11 AM
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Chicago
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curbman68 Offline
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Quote:



1970 B-bodies. All E-bodies.

And 73-76 A-bodies.




Thanks!

Re: restoring LCA's [Re: curbman68] #1150688
01/08/12 12:23 AM
01/08/12 12:23 AM
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autoxcuda Offline
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Quote:

Quote:



1970 B-bodies. All E-bodies.

And 73-76 A-bodies.




Thanks!




Just FYI, the 73-76 A-body LCA do not enterchange with the 70-72 B and 70-74 E body LCA's.

Last edited by autoxcuda; 01/08/12 12:30 AM.
Re: restoring LCA's [Re: autoxcuda] #1150689
01/08/12 10:17 AM
01/08/12 10:17 AM
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Chicago
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curbman68 Offline
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Quote:



Just FYI, the 73-76 A-body LCA do not enterchange with the 70-72 B and 70-74 E body LCA's.




I have a set here that I have had laying around probably close to 20 years, got them as spares and never used them. I knew they were B body, but was trying to figure out what years they covered. Never paid attention to the sway bar brackets before, kind of threw me off.

Re: restoring LCA's [Re: Runnin74] #1150690
01/08/12 07:09 PM
01/08/12 07:09 PM
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NORTHERN VA
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THESHAKERPROJECT Offline
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Quote:

Quote:



Here is one of the spindles. It was sand blasted. I wanted to try and darken it a little so it wouldn't have that blasted color. Once it was RPMed, it did get too dark but I still like the look of it. All the parts were RPMed seperately, then assembled. The lower ball joint is the color it came...I didn't try to darken it at all.









































Burdar, Are the nuts and bolts on that spindle assembly supposed to be black phosphate?


Yes...... the nut and bolts should be black phosphate and would be a bit darker greyish black color. All the ball joint and ti rod castle nuts are black phosphate . The reat strut nuts are black phosphate but I think the front ones are silver zink.

Re: restoring LCA's [Re: THESHAKERPROJECT] #1150691
01/15/12 12:00 AM
01/15/12 12:00 AM
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Posts: 7,368
Iowa
burdar Offline OP
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I sprayed the Battery Protectant today AND just figured out how to post a cell phone pic. I still need to RPM the lower ball joint end but I'm happy with the way it looks.


Re: restoring LCA's [Re: burdar] #1150692
01/15/12 12:29 AM
01/15/12 12:29 AM
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NC
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rc68rr Offline
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Is the upper & lower control arms on a 68 RR bare or how are they finished ? Thanks.

Re: restoring LCA's [Re: rc68rr] #1150693
01/15/12 02:03 PM
01/15/12 02:03 PM
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NORTHERN VA
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I used the stainless steel paint and then Eastwoods cosmoline type coating. You have to coat them a few times to get it this dark. The flash make em look lighter. A cast iron look post in the best of section (posted by Troy)has some great tips for the lowers as well as other cast parts. On cast iron parts , if you glass bead and just clear it (RPM/satin clear ect) it usually has a shined up look rather than a darker just cast look . Im workin on a few parts now to try to get that look without paint. Just my

7019859-IMG_1403.JPG (79 downloads)
Re: restoring LCA's [Re: 70runner] #1150694
01/15/12 02:22 PM
01/15/12 02:22 PM
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Posts: 42,714
Spokane Washington
ScottSmith_Harms Offline
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The question you have to ask yourself is what results are you looking for, O.E. production line original or just something similar in color that looks attractive.

Re: restoring LCA's [Re: THESHAKERPROJECT] #1150695
01/15/12 03:41 PM
01/15/12 03:41 PM
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Posts: 27,468
So Cal
autoxcuda Offline
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Quote:

I used the stainless steel paint and then Eastwoods cosmoline type coating. You have to coat them a few times to get it this dark. The flash make em look lighter. A cast iron look post in the best of section (posted by Troy)has some great tips for the lowers as well as other cast parts. On cast iron parts , if you glass bead and just clear it (RPM/satin clear ect) it usually has a shined up look rather than a darker just cast look . Im workin on a few parts now to try to get that look without paint. Just my




Here's that thread: https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...&PHPSESSID=

Re: restoring LCA's [Re: ScottSmith_Harms] #1150696
01/15/12 04:46 PM
01/15/12 04:46 PM
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Posts: 7,196
Harrisburg, Pa.
screamindriver Offline
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Quote:

The question you have to ask yourself is what results are you looking for, O.E. production line original or just something similar in color that looks attractive.


Here's one before the RPM days...ALL PAINT...For a driver...Still looks this way after a few years...

Re: restoring LCA's [Re: screamindriver] #1150697
01/15/12 05:36 PM
01/15/12 05:36 PM
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Quote:

Quote:

The question you have to ask yourself is what results are you looking for, O.E. production line original or just something similar in color that looks attractive.


Here's one before the RPM days...ALL PAINT...For a driver...Still looks this way after a few years...




Nice work.

Also, RPM is just a clear protective coating. What's under the RPM will still show through.

So if someone just bead blasts all their spindle, bolts, hardware, calipers etc then RPM's it. It will still look like it is all one color. No matter if it was as casted iron, machined cast iron, a bolt, washer, stamped sheet steel, etc... And IMHO not any better or more correct looking than spray bombing everything.

Re: restoring LCA's [Re: screamindriver] #1150698
01/15/12 05:46 PM
01/15/12 05:46 PM
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NORTHERN VA
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That looks great !!! More of a true cast iron look instead of the blasted then clearcoat look. I just re-did some parts by cleaning/glassbead/ then soakin the parts in PPG DX520 metal conditioner . I got a nice greyish darkened look like the pic above. I got the DX520 tip from another member on Moparts. I will try to post some pics later.

Re: restoring LCA's [Re: burdar] #1150699
01/15/12 07:18 PM
01/15/12 07:18 PM
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Richmond, VA
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rayztoy Offline
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Quote:

I sprayed the Battery Protectant today AND just figured out how to post a cell phone pic. I still need to RPM the lower ball joint end but I'm happy with the way it looks.

Very nice Darren...

Re: restoring LCA's [Re: rayztoy] #1150700
01/15/12 08:29 PM
01/15/12 08:29 PM
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Posts: 7,368
Iowa
burdar Offline OP
Owen's Dad
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Iowa
Thanks Ray... I RPM'd both the arms today. I coated the entire arm...not just the one end. The RPM didn't affect the paint at all and it adds another layer of protection. You can't tell by that picture but I did darken the cast end that the lower ball joint attaches to. Once it was RPM'd, the color difference really showed up. I agree with Steve, just blasting a part and leaving everything the same color doesn't look the best.

Re: restoring LCA's [Re: burdar] #1150701
01/16/12 07:12 PM
01/16/12 07:12 PM
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Richmond, VA
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rayztoy Offline
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Quote:

just blasting a part and leaving everything the same color doesn't look the best.





Re: restoring LCA's [Re: rayztoy] #1150702
01/17/12 01:56 AM
01/17/12 01:56 AM
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Utah and Alaska
astjp2 Offline
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