Re: restoring LCA's
[Re: 70runner]
#1150685
01/07/12 09:00 PM
01/07/12 09:00 PM
|
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 369 Chicago
curbman68
enthusiast
|
enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 369
Chicago
|
Quote:
Eastwood gold tint; also used the lower reinforcements.
Little off topic, but what year did the sway bar mount move from the end near the shock bolt to the middle near the rubber bumper?
|
|
|
Re: restoring LCA's
[Re: curbman68]
#1150686
01/07/12 10:50 PM
01/07/12 10:50 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468 So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
|
Quote:
Quote:
Eastwood gold tint; also used the lower reinforcements.
Little off topic, but what year did the sway bar mount move from the end near the shock bolt to the middle near the rubber bumper?
1970 B-bodies. All E-bodies.
And 73-76 A-bodies.
|
|
|
Re: restoring LCA's
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1150687
01/08/12 12:11 AM
01/08/12 12:11 AM
|
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 369 Chicago
curbman68
enthusiast
|
enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 369
Chicago
|
Quote:
1970 B-bodies. All E-bodies.
And 73-76 A-bodies.
Thanks!
|
|
|
Re: restoring LCA's
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1150689
01/08/12 10:17 AM
01/08/12 10:17 AM
|
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 369 Chicago
curbman68
enthusiast
|
enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 369
Chicago
|
Quote:
Just FYI, the 73-76 A-body LCA do not enterchange with the 70-72 B and 70-74 E body LCA's.
I have a set here that I have had laying around probably close to 20 years, got them as spares and never used them. I knew they were B body, but was trying to figure out what years they covered. Never paid attention to the sway bar brackets before, kind of threw me off.
|
|
|
Re: restoring LCA's
[Re: Runnin74]
#1150690
01/08/12 07:09 PM
01/08/12 07:09 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,163 NORTHERN VA
THESHAKERPROJECT
super stock
|
super stock
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,163
NORTHERN VA
|
Quote:
Quote:
Here is one of the spindles. It was sand blasted. I wanted to try and darken it a little so it wouldn't have that blasted color. Once it was RPMed, it did get too dark but I still like the look of it. All the parts were RPMed seperately, then assembled. The lower ball joint is the color it came...I didn't try to darken it at all.
Burdar, Are the nuts and bolts on that spindle assembly supposed to be black phosphate?
Yes...... the nut and bolts should be black phosphate and would be a bit darker greyish black color. All the ball joint and ti rod castle nuts are black phosphate . The reat strut nuts are black phosphate but I think the front ones are silver zink.
|
|
|
Re: restoring LCA's
[Re: THESHAKERPROJECT]
#1150695
01/15/12 03:41 PM
01/15/12 03:41 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468 So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
|
Quote:
I used the stainless steel paint and then Eastwoods cosmoline type coating. You have to coat them a few times to get it this dark. The flash make em look lighter. A cast iron look post in the best of section (posted by Troy)has some great tips for the lowers as well as other cast parts. On cast iron parts , if you glass bead and just clear it (RPM/satin clear ect) it usually has a shined up look rather than a darker just cast look . Im workin on a few parts now to try to get that look without paint. Just my
Here's that thread: https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...&PHPSESSID=
|
|
|
Re: restoring LCA's
[Re: ScottSmith_Harms]
#1150696
01/15/12 04:46 PM
01/15/12 04:46 PM
|
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 7,196 Harrisburg, Pa.
screamindriver
master
|
master
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 7,196
Harrisburg, Pa.
|
Quote:
The question you have to ask yourself is what results are you looking for, O.E. production line original or just something similar in color that looks attractive.
Here's one before the RPM days...ALL PAINT...For a driver...Still looks this way after a few years...
|
|
|
Re: restoring LCA's
[Re: screamindriver]
#1150697
01/15/12 05:36 PM
01/15/12 05:36 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468 So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
|
Quote:
Quote:
The question you have to ask yourself is what results are you looking for, O.E. production line original or just something similar in color that looks attractive.
Here's one before the RPM days...ALL PAINT...For a driver...Still looks this way after a few years...
Nice work.
Also, RPM is just a clear protective coating. What's under the RPM will still show through.
So if someone just bead blasts all their spindle, bolts, hardware, calipers etc then RPM's it. It will still look like it is all one color. No matter if it was as casted iron, machined cast iron, a bolt, washer, stamped sheet steel, etc... And IMHO not any better or more correct looking than spray bombing everything.
|
|
|
Re: restoring LCA's
[Re: burdar]
#1150699
01/15/12 07:18 PM
01/15/12 07:18 PM
|
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,169 Richmond, VA
rayztoy
super stock
|
super stock
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,169
Richmond, VA
|
Quote:
I sprayed the Battery Protectant today AND just figured out how to post a cell phone pic. I still need to RPM the lower ball joint end but I'm happy with the way it looks.
Very nice Darren...
|
|
|
Re: restoring LCA's
[Re: burdar]
#1150701
01/16/12 07:12 PM
01/16/12 07:12 PM
|
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,169 Richmond, VA
rayztoy
super stock
|
super stock
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,169
Richmond, VA
|
Quote:
just blasting a part and leaving everything the same color doesn't look the best.
|
|
|
|
|