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Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: Commando1]
#1147250
12/31/11 11:04 AM
12/31/11 11:04 AM
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,177
ill
dennismopar73
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 2,177
ill
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Quote:
I don't know if it's my imagination, paranoia, or what, but I swear as time goes on that the Moog quality that we used to know and trust has gone downhill as their production moves more and more over to China and they have to compete with price on all the crap that's out there.
Or is it just me?
You are correct!
Almost everything is now being made either China or Mexico, do you remember NAFTA? Ross Paroe? said it best, that giant sucking sound is the jobs leaving the US!
What we have is the we shoot ourselfs in the foot, because now we no longer make those parts here, but we do not even posses the building to make them as well!
Now we have to wait as those countrys pull their wages and economy up to where we are, then those jobs, or most will come back here.
It is stated, that Mexico will take 10-15 years to get their citizens up to our standards, that was 5-6 years ago.
Now the issue is if there is issue with a part here, it takes months to get the part changed over there, thus you see issues with quaility in the same part over and over!
Thanks that the parts are still 'lifetime' replacements!!
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Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: Commando1]
#1147252
12/31/11 01:52 PM
12/31/11 01:52 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
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Quote:
I don't know if it's my imagination, paranoia, or what, but I swear as time goes on that the Moog quality that we used to know and trust has gone downhill as their production moves more and more over to China and they have to compete with price on all the crap that's out there.
Or is it just me?
I bought a brand new Moog 73-76 idler arm from Rock Auto eariler this year. I have 2500 miles on it. The ball joint on the end has up and down movement in it. 
The one I had before that last 20K+ miles.
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Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: cjskotni]
#1147254
12/31/11 07:42 PM
12/31/11 07:42 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,784
Corpus Christi, TX
shanker
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,784
Corpus Christi, TX
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Ive given up on all parts store brands and only run XRF chassis stuff now...and its actually lower priced than Moog.. http://www.xrfchassis.com/
The Federal Government has not yet learned that you cannot legislate morality
1970 Coronet R/T FF4/FF8/V85/V1G 440/Auto/3.23
1970 Coronet R/T FK5/FK5/V8W/V1W 440/Auto/3.55
1970 Super Bee TX9/TX9/V8W/N96 383/Auto/3.91
1975 Duster 360 VS29L5 Daily Driver
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Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: MoparDonny]
#1147258
01/05/12 07:15 AM
01/05/12 07:15 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,575
The Netherlands
BigBlockMopar
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,575
The Netherlands
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Quote:
About 8 years ago I changed the idler arm on my 71 Challenger and it was the poops when i got it but it was better than the original. now that I have a greater appreciation in handling i want to put a good (tight) idler arm on it. I dont remember where I got this last one but Im hoping that all the idlers arent loose like this. It really is the poops. Any experiences with this type of junk? I hope some of the locals might have parts for comparison.
You haven't said what part of the idler arm has worn?
If it's the balljoint, I can't be of much help.
But if it's the bushing-part then you might want to consider changing it out for a solid nylon or ballbearing-version.
IMO a great deal of steering linkage play comes from wimpy rubber bushings which also lets the arm go up and down, instead of only left and right. Up/down-movement of the idler arm lets the pass.side tire be able to vary into a different direction then the driver-side tire. This can give a mushy/sloppy feel in the steeringwheel.
I always change out the rubber bushing for a 2-part nylon version, which I happen to be able to make on my lathe myself.
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Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: Commando1]
#1147259
01/05/12 11:33 AM
01/05/12 11:33 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,012
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,012
U.S.S.A.
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Quote:
I don't know if it's my imagination, paranoia, or what, but I swear as time goes on that the Moog quality that we used to know and trust has gone downhill as their production moves more and more over to China and they have to compete with price on all the crap that's out there.
Or is it just me?
No it's not just you.
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Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: BigBlockMopar]
#1147261
01/15/12 05:51 PM
01/15/12 05:51 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,760
Port Alberni, British Columbia
MoparDonny
OP
top fuel
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OP
top fuel
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,760
Port Alberni, British Columbia
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Quote:
You haven't said what part of the idler arm has worn?
If it's the balljoint, I can't be of much help.
But if it's the bushing-part then you might want to consider changing it out for a solid nylon or ballbearing-version.
IMO a great deal of steering linkage play comes from wimpy rubber bushings which also lets the arm go up and down, instead of only left and right. Up/down-movement of the idler arm lets the pass.side tire be able to vary into a different direction then the driver-side tire. This can give a mushy/sloppy feel in the steeringwheel.
I always change out the rubber bushing for a 2-part nylon version, which I happen to be able to make on my lathe myself.
It's the bushing part. And IIRC it was sloppy from the get-go but i needed it quick and it was cheap and in stock. I ordered a MOOG to have a look. Im done with settling for iffy parts. If it has any slop its going back right away this time.
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Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: Rick_Ehrenberg]
#1147265
01/21/12 01:10 AM
01/21/12 01:10 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
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Rick I bought a Moog idler for my 73-76 A-body K-member and the darn ball joint is loose after about 2500 miles. Is Moog quality going to pot? Or did have a fluke bum part (it happens)?
Last edited by autoxcuda; 01/21/12 01:19 AM.
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Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: Rick_Ehrenberg]
#1147266
01/21/12 01:16 AM
01/21/12 01:16 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
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Quote:
Bit of trivia:
Despite many people who think otherwise, OEM suspension / steering parts were not mfg by Moog (now Federal-Mogul). They were made in-house by Chrysler at New Castle Forge!
The ones I scored (see B and E-body parts for sale sections) are made to OEM Mopar blueprints and are very, very nice clones. I bought a pallet of 'em to get us the super deal.
Rick
On yours, are the inner thru bolt bushing a plain metal bushing or OE rubber or like some aftermarket stuff nylon?
Does the ball joint on the outer have a zerk fitting?
 Thats looks one heck of a lot more stock looking compared to the square aftermarket stuff that's on the market now.
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Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: astjp2]
#1147268
01/22/12 02:39 AM
01/22/12 02:39 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
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Quote:
Bill Rolek has the Raybestos line of suspension and steering products, they were Spicer but the company renamed them Raybestos. It use a different type of joint than the moog. I am hoping someone gives some feedback on their products. Tim
http://www.raybestoschassis.com/wps/port...ral/Idler+Arms/
Thing is that idler pictured is not a Mopar one. I'd like to see the Mopar Spicer/Raybestos idler.
I've seen these suspension companies tout features and benefits that are not 100% spread around to thier entire product line. Especially the older slower moving stuff.
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Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: MoparDonny]
#1147269
01/22/12 02:47 AM
01/22/12 02:47 AM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,344
Central TX
roe
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,344
Central TX
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I read your thread hoping to get an answer to my own question about idler arms...but how tight should a fresh idler arm be, without it being connected to the centerlink? I bolted my new one in to the k-frame and I can easily move it back and forth. The one I pulled of you have to put some effort into moving it. Which one is correct? How does yours feel?
roe
1971 Plymouth Satellite
408/904 8 3/4 3.23 SG
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Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: roe]
#1147270
01/22/12 02:56 AM
01/22/12 02:56 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
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Quote:
I read your thread hoping to get an answer to my own question about idler arms...but how tight should a fresh idler arm be, without it being connected to the centerlink? I bolted my new one in to the k-frame and I can easily move it back and forth. The one I pulled of you have to put some effort into moving it. Which one is correct? How does yours feel?
roe
If it's a Moog type with the plain bearing that resistance will vary depending on the amount you torque the thru bolt. Tighter = more resistance
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Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1147271
01/22/12 03:01 AM
01/22/12 03:01 AM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,344
Central TX
roe
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,344
Central TX
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I believe mine is Mcquay-Norris, I'll have to double check, but it has the metal bushing that extends out of both ends. The one I was replacing was the same style. I torqued them down pretty evenly and the new one was much looser feeling than the old one. It had been on since I got the car a few years ago, but if that one is better, I'll put it back on and toss the "new" one.
roe
1971 Plymouth Satellite
408/904 8 3/4 3.23 SG
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Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1147273
01/22/12 12:24 PM
01/22/12 12:24 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,688
Marlboro, NY, USA
Rick_Ehrenberg
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,688
Marlboro, NY, USA
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Quote:
Quote:
Bit of trivia:
Despite many people who think otherwise, OEM suspension / steering parts were not mfg by Moog (now Federal-Mogul). They were made in-house by Chrysler at New Castle Forge!
The ones I scored (see B and E-body parts for sale sections) are made to OEM Mopar blueprints and are very, very nice clones. I bought a pallet of 'em to get us the super deal.
Rick
On yours, are the inner thru bolt bushing a plain metal bushing or OE rubber or like some aftermarket stuff nylon?
Does the ball joint on the outer have a zerk fitting?
Thats looks one heck of a lot more stock looking compared to the square aftermarket stuff that's on the market now.
Total clone of Mopar OEM. No zerk, gusher bearings.
For road race use, I'd sure have Firm Feel's needle-bearing stuff.
Rick
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Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: Rick_Ehrenberg]
#1147274
01/22/12 10:06 PM
01/22/12 10:06 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
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Quote:
[....
For road race use, I'd sure have Firm Feel's needle-bearing stuff.
Rick
Any pictures on the web of those? Do they have them for A-bodies yet?
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Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: Stanton]
#1147275
01/22/12 10:53 PM
01/22/12 10:53 PM
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
Kern Dog
Striving for excellence
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Striving for excellence
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
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Quote:
And why did all this happen ??? Because the blue-collar guy making $32. an hour didn't like buying something made by another blue-collar guy making $32. an hour - he wanted to buy 10 things made by people making $1. an hour!
I applaud you for writing this. Very sad and sadly true. I think that it CAN turn around, but it will take a generation to do so.
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Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1147276
01/23/12 11:02 PM
01/23/12 11:02 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,688
Marlboro, NY, USA
Rick_Ehrenberg
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,688
Marlboro, NY, USA
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Quote:
Any pictures on the web of those? Do they have them for A-bodies yet?
Dick is in the final stages, just agonizing as to which forging to use as the "must have for kit to work" one. I'm trying to get him to utilize OEM Chrysler.
Rick
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Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: Rick_Ehrenberg]
#1147278
01/28/12 04:11 AM
01/28/12 04:11 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
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Quote:
Quote:
Any pictures on the web of those? Do they have them for A-bodies yet?
Dick is in the final stages, just agonizing as to which forging to use as the "must have for kit to work" one. I'm trying to get him to utilize OEM Chrysler.
Rick
We run this bearing setup on our circle track cars. Don't know if it has needle bearing or not.
Maybe something like this on the K-member end??:
And this type of joint on the centerlink end. Of course without threads.
BUT IMHO Rick, someone needs to look at power steering box possibilities then work their way down to the idler and pitman.
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