|
Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: astjp2]
#1147268
01/22/12 02:39 AM
01/22/12 02:39 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
|
Quote:
Bill Rolek has the Raybestos line of suspension and steering products, they were Spicer but the company renamed them Raybestos. It use a different type of joint than the moog. I am hoping someone gives some feedback on their products. Tim
http://www.raybestoschassis.com/wps/port...ral/Idler+Arms/
Thing is that idler pictured is not a Mopar one. I'd like to see the Mopar Spicer/Raybestos idler.
I've seen these suspension companies tout features and benefits that are not 100% spread around to thier entire product line. Especially the older slower moving stuff.
|
|
|
Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: MoparDonny]
#1147269
01/22/12 02:47 AM
01/22/12 02:47 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,344
Central TX
roe
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,344
Central TX
|
I read your thread hoping to get an answer to my own question about idler arms...but how tight should a fresh idler arm be, without it being connected to the centerlink? I bolted my new one in to the k-frame and I can easily move it back and forth. The one I pulled of you have to put some effort into moving it. Which one is correct? How does yours feel?
roe
1971 Plymouth Satellite
408/904 8 3/4 3.23 SG
|
|
|
Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: roe]
#1147270
01/22/12 02:56 AM
01/22/12 02:56 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
|
Quote:
I read your thread hoping to get an answer to my own question about idler arms...but how tight should a fresh idler arm be, without it being connected to the centerlink? I bolted my new one in to the k-frame and I can easily move it back and forth. The one I pulled of you have to put some effort into moving it. Which one is correct? How does yours feel?
roe
If it's a Moog type with the plain bearing that resistance will vary depending on the amount you torque the thru bolt. Tighter = more resistance
|
|
|
Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1147271
01/22/12 03:01 AM
01/22/12 03:01 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,344
Central TX
roe
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,344
Central TX
|
I believe mine is Mcquay-Norris, I'll have to double check, but it has the metal bushing that extends out of both ends. The one I was replacing was the same style. I torqued them down pretty evenly and the new one was much looser feeling than the old one. It had been on since I got the car a few years ago, but if that one is better, I'll put it back on and toss the "new" one.
roe
1971 Plymouth Satellite
408/904 8 3/4 3.23 SG
|
|
|
Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1147273
01/22/12 12:24 PM
01/22/12 12:24 PM
|
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,688
Marlboro, NY, USA
Rick_Ehrenberg
top fuel
|
top fuel
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,688
Marlboro, NY, USA
|
Quote:
Quote:
Bit of trivia:
Despite many people who think otherwise, OEM suspension / steering parts were not mfg by Moog (now Federal-Mogul). They were made in-house by Chrysler at New Castle Forge!
The ones I scored (see B and E-body parts for sale sections) are made to OEM Mopar blueprints and are very, very nice clones. I bought a pallet of 'em to get us the super deal.
Rick
On yours, are the inner thru bolt bushing a plain metal bushing or OE rubber or like some aftermarket stuff nylon?
Does the ball joint on the outer have a zerk fitting?
 Thats looks one heck of a lot more stock looking compared to the square aftermarket stuff that's on the market now.
Total clone of Mopar OEM. No zerk, gusher bearings.
For road race use, I'd sure have Firm Feel's needle-bearing stuff.
Rick
|
|
|
Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: Rick_Ehrenberg]
#1147274
01/22/12 10:06 PM
01/22/12 10:06 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
|
Quote:
[....
For road race use, I'd sure have Firm Feel's needle-bearing stuff.
Rick
Any pictures on the web of those? Do they have them for A-bodies yet?
|
|
|
Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: Stanton]
#1147275
01/22/12 10:53 PM
01/22/12 10:53 PM
|
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
Kern Dog
Striving for excellence
|
Striving for excellence
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
|
Quote:
And why did all this happen ??? Because the blue-collar guy making $32. an hour didn't like buying something made by another blue-collar guy making $32. an hour - he wanted to buy 10 things made by people making $1. an hour!
I applaud you for writing this. Very sad and sadly true. I think that it CAN turn around, but it will take a generation to do so.
|
|
|
Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: autoxcuda]
#1147276
01/23/12 11:02 PM
01/23/12 11:02 PM
|
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,688
Marlboro, NY, USA
Rick_Ehrenberg
top fuel
|
top fuel
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,688
Marlboro, NY, USA
|
Quote:
Any pictures on the web of those? Do they have them for A-bodies yet?
Dick is in the final stages, just agonizing as to which forging to use as the "must have for kit to work" one. I'm trying to get him to utilize OEM Chrysler.
Rick
|
|
|
Re: I Need another idler arm
[Re: Rick_Ehrenberg]
#1147278
01/28/12 04:11 AM
01/28/12 04:11 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
|
Quote:
Quote:
Any pictures on the web of those? Do they have them for A-bodies yet?
Dick is in the final stages, just agonizing as to which forging to use as the "must have for kit to work" one. I'm trying to get him to utilize OEM Chrysler.
Rick
We run this bearing setup on our circle track cars. Don't know if it has needle bearing or not.
Maybe something like this on the K-member end??:
And this type of joint on the centerlink end. Of course without threads.
BUT IMHO Rick, someone needs to look at power steering box possibilities then work their way down to the idler and pitman.
|
|
|
|
|
