Well, sort of.

While I have a 74 RR and the 74 904,
it looks like I have a 78 small block with a similar or later factory 4 bbl intake and an Edelbrock carb.

The kick down arm does not look like what is in the 74 manual.

I am not sure what it is from.

Anyways, with some help from this forum, especially one member,

I got in the right direction with the adapter and carb stud.

The TPS/kick down travels with the throttle pedal so is is forward at idle, and almost all the way back with WOT.

I have not had it out to see if it kicks down right in addition to moving the pressure adjusting arm. While a yard/neighborhood driver she is not quite ready to punch it on the open road.

As for the attachment at the lever, I tried two different types of set ups listed as kick down arm clips. I could not get either to work.

I did what I thought about doing before giving those a try. A drill, cotter pin, and washer.









Thank you for the tips and help

It is supposed to be all the way back at the trans with the carb at WOT, but close won't hurt anything though.
Most kickdown arms have an adjustable block at the transmission end where it goes onto the transmission lever so you can fine tune it, that one doesn't appear to have that though.

Also you appear to have the same pine needle problem that I do.

looks like it is ready to me

as long as you can slide it thru its travel and the spring snap it back its good to go.

I've had good luck leaving it 1/8 to 1/16 of an inch short of all the way back when at W.O.T. A little adjustment either way does make a difference in how and when the car shifts etc. I've had to bend the rod slightly in the past too.

Also, I use a small amount of synthetic Disc brake lube on the piviot/ contact points of the linkage, so it slides nicely and doesn't bind.

thanks guys.

I do need to lube it.

yes, in the manual is shows a little adjuster box/clamp that connects the rod to the lever, but a later motor with a later intake, after market carb, unknown trans rod,
on the original 904 if it fits I'll take it!

this is how we learn and get it close as possable with used parts.

I have done it more than one time,now to really fine tune it you can play with the levers at the trans longer shorter and some have the D-hole clocked different to help.

it has room for adjustments from the looks of it in the pics and thanks for posting them mucho help to see it from here

if needed useing another flat slide bar bolted to the one you have to make it longer is an option if need be to fine tune it..may need a good bend/tweek here or there also.

haveing it hooked up is the main thing to start with.

I give it a pass and check off the list,on to next item on the road ready list

whats next on your hit list?

we need more pics

here in FL they sell pine needles for 4.75 a bail

yes, there is adjustment there.

from the looks where the majority of the adjustment comes from.

I believe the connection is for smaller increments of adjustment at the lever. In the manual it connects horizontally after coming down instead of vertically, but a different shaped rod.

Next one the list:

check out rear diff, seal, and refill with lube.
go over front end.

check for the missing bolts here and there.
important ones like one in cross member, bumper frame, etc.
it was a stalled project thrown together and put for sale.

put fan shroud I got from a junk yard on.

deal with micro lead radiator go after I flushed it...

headliner.

new tank.

sending unit.

and, when all is said and done,
once it is road worthy,
I believe finding an LA 360 or a pulled magnum with all accesories will be in order. the valve breathers let out enough blow by to make my driveway look like a blue haze of LA smog.

The early kickdown links and arms the 340 used had adjustments on both top and bottom, the later ones just have the bottom adjustment but work so you have a typical later setup.
Luckily I found a early 340 setup for the Dart and it's nice, I have used a reworked 2bbl setup and the later one similar to yours and all of them can work if your willing to tweak and adjust as needed.
I had to make the 2bbl setup think it was longer by cheating with a small bolt in the kickdown spring slide area up top seeing how it was very hard to find the proper A body kickdown linkage even back in the early 80's when I decided to upgrade the intake/carb setup.