ok, so im looking at all my options for going EFI on my 360 LA duster.
one option i hadnt given much thought, but seems like a really good idea now that im doped up on cold medicine, is to use an injected M1 intake from a magnum motor. only problem is my LA heads. could i re-drill the bolt pattern, and plug the magnum pattern like the professional products intakes ive seen and used?
dont see why i couldnt use a LA style gasket glued to the head as a drilling jig, centerpunch the hole accurately, and drill it with the press.

or am i asking for trouble and leaks doing this?
reason im looking at this option is that i dont think i can drill my victor jr intake for injectors without welding bungs. just dont think theres enough thickness in there.

other random question: how much could a stock magnum v-8 throttle body and rails support?

Michael

If there's enough material to drill the M1 at the diff LA angle it'd work. Rather than using the gaskets for a template I would mockup the intake with the gaskets and use the head bolt hole location (on the V slope) for an exact point. Not visualizing how at the moment but that'd be my thinking. Might have to mark their location at the front/rear of the heads' intake faces

IIRC Mopar Perf has a manifold that fits the EFI and the LA heads. what are you going to do about knock sensor, cam sensor ect.
????

if you could find me a valip part number for that, id love it.

and im skipping most of those issues by running the motor with GM ECM and sensors, as well as modifying a lean burn dist. to be computer controlled for timing.

as far as a knock sensor, ill grab one from a 454 truck, and find an unused hole low in the block to thread it into.

this way will be a whole lot easier and cheaper than any of my other options.
my only hangup is the manifold. was planning to mod my victor jr, but saw how cheap the m1's are used. cheaper than modding mine.

michael

I used to have a vanity plate on my duster that read dusterbd! But no one could figure it out.

Anyways, I have a complete engine harness computer and fuse block from 1992 dodge Dakota with mag 318 ...pm me if your interested.

EDELBROCK # 28155

369.95 @ Summit.

are you looking to use the factory EFI system, or just need an EFI intake for the injectors, but running aftermarket/standalone EFI?

if it's the factory system, you'll be WAY ahead if you just went to the junk yards and picked up a 5.9L Magnum. much fewer headaches than trying to retrofit the magnum EFI to an LA motor.

however, if it's someone elses EFI and you just want the intake for the injectors, I'd look to *shudders* ebay, for the airgap style dual plane intake that's drilled for BOTH LA and Magnum intake patterns, it also has little bosses on it that can be drilled out for adding injectors. It's a carb intake, but only costs about $200 shipped, and you can get a 4bbl to 2bbl TB adapter plate for the factory magnum TB. (lots of guys are using those adapter plates with no issues, because a 4bbl M1 EFI intake is a lot cheaper than a 2bbl M1 EFI intake)

I have an adapter if you want it.

the factory TB in fully stock form is probably good to about 375-400 hp. I THINK that's whats holding me back right now on my build. I only put 285 hp to the wheels, and my AFRs indicate that I'm running out of airflow in the higher RPM. the stock magnum heads should flow enough for about 400 hp, but I'm guessing I'm around 360-370 hp.

but, you can also pick up a factory TB that's been ported to 52mm for about $200, and they can support up to 500 hp from what I've seen from guys with 408s in Dakota's with them.

his 2 posts tells what he is doing

how tall is that whole setup from the top of the head surface to the top of the adapter? looks like its really tall. worried about hood clearance.

and what are the two large bosses on the opposing corners for?

michael

I'm not really sure what the tall bosses are for. The could be cut off I'm sure. As far as height, it's really not any taller than an M1 thats cast as a 2bbl to begin with, which fits under the truck hoods easy, even allows for a 3" tall round air filter element. If you're doing this in a car, I don't know how it'll do on a car application.

so ive made up my mind on a few things.
1. using stock magnum fuel rails, with 30lb injectors running returnless style with 60PSI regulated pressure.
2. drilling and welding my victor jr for efi application
3. using a GM ECM and all related engine managemnt parts
4. using a magnum style throttle body. will get it running off the one i have, and upgrade when necessary.
5. hiding it all under an oval air cleaner.

to that end, heres what ive been doing.

got a fresher ECM (7727 interchange)
5.9 magnum throttle body
5.9 magnum fuel rails (and installed my free 30lb injectors)
lean burn dist and the parts o convert it to GM HEI style computer control, new oil pressure switch


















question. does anyone have a source for an AN adapter version of this fitting? prefferably in a 90* format?


michael

curious how you make out on this.

for the fuel line hook up to the rail, don't know if it helps, I just used a regular fuel line and an efi rated hose clamp with no issues.

not sure but the efi that I have for my 5.9 and factory is 50 psi. won't you run into a problem running 60 psi?

You can get some ideas from James at www.bigblockranger.com, it'll show you how to install the injectors.

BTW, I don't think there's anything wrong with your original idea as long as you take care of some of the beer barrel's weak points. First, the runners are long for torque but they restrict airflow and Hughes has been shortening them with good results. Second, the plate that seals off the bottom of the beer barrel (you take it off to modify the runners) leaks easily and that seal has to be improved, can't remember how they do it. I'd fill up the intake bolt holes with JB weld and use an intake gasket and transfer punch to mark the location of the center of the holes you want, then drill them. If you had a drill press that'd be easier once you got it set up, but a hand drill will work.

Seems to me that starting with a working unit would be easier than trying to fabricate the first time.

R.