i have a 47 special deluxe, and am wanting to put a 383 motor and tranny out of my 70 fury. can i use the whole front end of the fury or what should i do. all knowledge and info is welcome.
thank you!

You will have better luck over in the Rodder's section.
I'll bump this for a mod.
BTW, to answer your question, a small block isn't hard. Put A body manifolds on, push it over to the passenger side an inch or so, and it clears.
You can get small blocks over 400 cubes easily now.
A big block is going to be much tougher, mainly due to the steering. I realise you wnat to use what you have on hand, but it's a lot more work and will need more parts.

I have a 440 in my 48 but it has been subframed. With stock frame rails I wouldnt think it would be to hard the only area I would think might get tight would be in the oil pump and filter area, steering can be taken care of with a borgeson joint or two, it may also help if you use a rear sump oil pan out of a truck. As for a small block,My buddy put a 360 in his coupe with stock front end, no clearance issues, just welded some mounts up and made a new trans crossmember for the 727, it was almost like it was made for that swap.
I hope you stick to your 383 idea there isnt many 46-48 Plymouth/Dodge street rods out there with Mopar power let alone BB Mopar

i have a 48 dodge coupe it was set up for a 383 but i wanted a out a 1957 desota 341 hemi in it so it can be done a little work but worth the time

I put a 440 in my 1946 Desoto

But, I put all new front and rear suspension stuff in it too !

Working on the early Mopars are a little challenging, Joshua. I'm building up a 41 Dodge Custom Deluxe Coupe. 69' 440 Six Pack w/ Stage 6 aluminum heads, built A518 trans (I have a 97 Viper six speed that was originally going in it but my wife now can't drive a stick - bad knees), 70 Duster 8 3/4" SureGrip w/ 3.55s in a 41 housing and I'm partially using a 92 Dakota chassis. I bought a running truck for $500. I ran into a gentleman from Vancouver, B.C. that had a 41 only it had a 408 small block in it and he used the Dakota front clip. I'm using most of the frame but building my own back half as I'm planning on tubbing mine. Work is slow going due to a combination of $$, my disability plus the weather hasn't been cooperating. Difficult to work outside when the weather is in the teens and twenties. Hope to have a shop built next year.

I used to race Mopars in the 60's and 70's, my first racer was a 64 Plymouth w/ a Stage III 426, 4 speed and the aluminum front end (wish I still had that one. My ex sold it on me without consulting me.) I then got a 68 Roadrunner that I built up. I'd eat 440's all day and even some hemis occasionally.

Anyway, I'm now trying to marry my two loves, Mopar musclecars and streetrods. I'm planning on painting it like an old cop car. I have the bubblegum red light for the roof and the siren that came from the 56' Ford that belonged to the Longview, WA chief of police. I bought a set of cable remote mirrors off of a 70' Cuda. I'll add some pictures but I just got this new laptop and need to transfer my pics over.

41Dodge (a.k.a. Vic)

thanks for the advice. if you dont mind me asking what did you use for the subframe?

My current 48 is sitting on a complete (though shortened 8") Dakota frame (standard cab, long box, 124" wheel base). The rear of Dakota frame kicks up pretty high at the rear axle and remains high to the end of the frame, if you use the whole frame, major modification will be required to the floor pan from the axle kick up to the rear bumper.

At one time I started putting a Dakota front frame on a 39 Plymouth (same basic frame as the 46-48 except it still had the X trans crossmember) and the Dakota frame slid inside the original frame at the firewall.

A Dakota frame has straight boxed frame rails from the kick out behind the front suspension until it kicks up for the rear axle (in the 5' long straight stretch range). They came with rack & pinion steering, independent, modern suspension (all new design in 87), disc brakes, have a lowering kit available, and support a 4 cylinder to a V8 with simple coil spring change. The track width of a 1st gen Dakota is about 60", about the same as many older Mopar cars & trucks. The 87-90 had 5 bolt 4 1/2" bolt pattern, the 91-96 have a 6 bolt wheel but can be converted to 5 bolt by bolting on the older rotors and changing rear axle shafts from the same size rear axle. The 97 & newer would be better to keep the 6 bolt wheels. You will want to look over the early Dakota frames for rust about the center of the truck about the point of the factory splice between the boxed frame and the channel back portion, especially rust belt trucks. Its not a difficult fix, and its usually the bottom 2", but its something to consider if you have a choice of more then 1 frame.

If I was going to clip one, the Dakota would be my 1st choice. Gene