I'm having a hard time getting this 440 to turn over and start.

The engine is fresh and was running in the car before dissassembly for paint and resto.

Put the motor and trans back in with k-frame from underneath. Everything is new, including a new MP starter, a 750 CCA battery. New plugs, wires, distributor, hoses, belts, etc, etc, etc. Everything is new.

I pre-primed the motor, ran fuel into the carb and got a little spark, but this thing still cranks hard and pulls the battery down real quick. I friend suggested a bigger batter cable. Currently is a 4 gage, but I happen to have a 2 gage. The pos. cable does get hot, but all other wiring seems find.

This motor ran before with no problems.

Any suggestions?

We did try starting the car while hooked to jumper cables too.

Does it start at all? A larger battery cable is a good idea in any event. Since you painted the engine, etc, your "Ground" may not be Clean and paint/corrosion-free (is it good metal-to-metal contact?)

Your timing may be off. For an engine to start/run, you need Air, Fuel and Spark, plus starter-rotation to kick things off.

No it didn't start. Came real close. We have spark, triple checked the timeing, wires, plugs etc. We have everything that I can think of. Actually had 4 friends helping. I have a service manual check everything over several times.

I've never had an engine crank over so hard. I'm changing out the cable tomorrow.

Have you tried backing off the timing a little to see what happens? You said the timing is correct but without starting it how do you know?

When you said "almost," did it fire-off at all (combustion) or just turn-over slowly?

With New Battery and Starter, unless the engine is mechanically-obstructed or excessively tight from a rebuild, it should rotate freely. You could pull the plugs and see how easily it rotates.

It could be small battery-cables or bad connections/grounding.

I had difficulty starting my 440 after it sat for 20-years. Oil-primed, new plugs, turned freely, rebuilt/primed carb, etc, but it wouldn't start/fire.

Turns out it was a problem with the Electronic-Ignition wiring that had come apart where it connected to the main wire loom.

I've seen engines not start because someone left a rag in the intake-manifold under the carb. Could be something small that's not quite right.

New pistons? Were they fit to the bore?

OK,

Engine ran fine before and I will assume you changed nothing on the long block (if that is not true, then go check that stuff).

You mentioned a new starter - I would look there. Is in cocked? All bolts go in clean and starter not twisted? Might need a shim (rare) to stop from going to far - OK, thats a stretch, but it is one of the new bits! Just as a check, maybe you still have the old one you can bolt in for a quick check?

Next check the distributor - they get turned around all the time. Find TDC of #1 and make sure that the rotor is pointing at #1 - it is so easy to have the distributor rotated 180.

Might also help to turn the engine over by hand (a wrench on the harmonic dampner bolt) and make sure it is not overly tight. was it sitting long enough in a humid environment to get a little rust starting in the cylinders? rare and not a very often found issue, but if you had it parked at a marina ......

Just some food for thought - let us know what it turns out to be.

It's easy to tell if timing is part of the trouble--just pull and ground the coil wiere, and crank. If it cranks much easier, then back off the timing.

A cable getting HOT is a bad sign. This could be too small cable, cable that's really bad (partly corroded/ broken inside), a starter drawing too much current (bad windings or dragging bearings) or an engine that is just way too tight.

You shouldn't have a problem with using a 4 gauge positive cable. If you say the cable is getting hot after trying to start the engine, im guessing your cranking it for quite a while. So again I wouldn't consider that a problem.

I would definitely pull the plugs out first to see what happens. If it still has trouble spinning, either swap out starters, or if you have access to a clamp on ammeter see what its actually drawing.

Well, I swapped starters out today. It had a rebuilt original style starter and I got fet up thinking its just drawing too much current.

Switched to an MP starter and it cranked about the same. Also installed a new 750 CCA battery. The other battery, though, new had no markings on it so I couldn't tell what size it really was.

The motor has had No changes, though, it has set for about 6 months untouched with plugs in it. The battery cables are all new as well as the rest of the wiring. The dash wiring is original.

I was able to get a little oil in 3-4 cylinders, the others were tough with the original exhaust manifolds on. I may try and get all the cylinders.

The starter went in real easy and seems to be working properly.

A friend did say his 64 Polara with a fresh 383-4spd was tough to turn too but eventually fired.

The carb is a rebuilt AVS.

I'll try the distributor trick in the morning.

Thanks
Chris

pull the plugs & crank it, it should turn fast & smooth. Lets narrow this down & see if it's a short block friction issue or a cranking(batt/cables/starter) problem.

Pulled the plugs this morning, oiled all cylinders fairly well. Didn't make a difference. I tried several times to turn the motor over at the crank bolt and it wouldn't budge. I was, however to tight the bolt really tight!

Problem....4spd trans input shaft and crank was touching. Not sure why, it didn't have a problem before. I loosened the trans mission bolts at the bell housing and let it seperate. I could then turn the motor over with ease with the starter or wrench.

We shimmed the trans mission and it turns over fine. The crank, oil lite bearing, etc., are all correct pieces. Correct 4spd crank, etc. Don't know why it rubs the crank.

Anyone over have this problem?

CDP