I bought a 73 Roadrunner that has 94,000 miles from a widow who's husband had owned for years. It was in a state of restoration, she knows nothing about the car. Based on paperwork for asst services with mileage and dates, the mileage seems correct. I noticed newer alternator and water pump. I'm looking for clues to tell me it's had a rebuild at some point. Any tips on what might be a give away (certain type gaskets vs factory, etc) I know I'll be rebuilding the heads as I get smoke at start up after sitting a week or more. Thanks.

If you want to get into engine, almost all rod/main bearings have date codes on them for a clue on possible reman.

That's exactly what I'm trying to avoid - it ain't broke (as they say), good compression , etc.

If you pull the heads the head gasket will indicate whether it has been rebuilt or not. Also if it has oversize pistons.

But get real. It hasn't been rebuilt. 94K miles from a '70s car would typically get you a little oil burning from valve guides or at least valve stem seals while the piston rings would typically last a little longer. What you're describing sounds to me very much like what I'd be doing to keep a higher mileage car on the road.

If you want to drive it for a while without taking it apart you could probably replace valve stem seals while leaving the heads on to cut down on oil burning and plug fouling.

Engine rebuilding or replacement is a big job and usually not attempted by your average golden-ager (not the old weirdos on this board) and if it had you'd hear about it or run into receipts.

R. (old weirdo)

That's the plan - I'll be pulling the drive train next Summer to paint the engine bay, I figured I'd snoop around then but heads will be done regardless - if all looks well and maintained I sure won't bother with a rebuild, as far as performance upgrades - it'd take too much to get this pig respect (small block - HEAVY car, not worth time and money, save it for my A body). Thanks.

If you pop the dist cap off then turn the crank
back and forth, watch when you see the rotor start
to move then see how many degrees the crank turns...
you will get a idea of how much slop is in the whole
system... if it has quite a bit that would say that
it hasnt had a chain put in which would be a normal
item on any freshening

Mr P's been around the block ..... thanks, would have never thought of that ! I don't believe the intake gasket I'm looking at is stock (blue)... not 100% as I have nothing to compare to at the moment (engine is bone stock).

Stock intake gasket should be steel shim IIRC, as should head gasket.
R.

I was gonna say the same - no stock blue intake gasket - probably aftermarket and has been off at some point ..........

Base engine in a 73 RR was a 318. OP hasn't told us what it is yet.
I'm betting 318.

R.

PS: I have a hard time not laughing when I see a 73 or 74 RoadRunner with 318 advertised as a "muscle car".

smoke at start up usually is just the valve seals----an easy and cheap fix----if otherwise if it is a runner i wouldnt tear into it--just to tear into it--drive it for awhile----bob

Not that it makes a difference but , 340.

Another quick check is to whip off the valve covers and look inside. A rebuild should be clean in there, and 94,000 miles would have at least dark oil & surfaces, and likely some oil build-up. The reason I'd take both covers off is to compare heads, in case one had been worked on but not the other, which to me indicates someone only did the minimum to keep something running. If it has good, even compression, doesn't smoke or leak, and has good oil pressure, run it until next year.

First I'd look in the oil filler cap area. If it's shiny clean, someone's done some work to it.
Next do like Mr P says and pop the Dizzy cap, grab the crank dampener pulley and rock it back and forth. If the rotor moves smoothly without slop it's been freshened up in some way. If it's sloppy, You'd better get a new chain in there before the stupid nylon teeth break off and causes your chain to slip.

It's a 340, you got lucky.
R.