Does it matter where you take it off? Is weight still weight? I'm putting glass trunk on it will take off 50lbs. I've taken weight off before not this much at once though. How much power does it take to push 50lbs?

Shawn...How ya doing? Not much help but mine is down to 3230#...What do you come in at?

USUALLY guys like myself and others w/52% or more weight on the nose take it from there but w/those big wheelies of yours the trunk might actually help it.

With me in car dead on 3500

Depends on the total weight and weight distribution of the car now. Might help, might hurt. Weight back there usually helps with traction. I once read I think in the old DC manuals that for every 100 pounds you remove you can gain a tenth; with lighter cars it was 75 pounds for a tenth.

I would think being that you run Leaf springs with HD Truck shocks that the weight would probably be your best buddy back there. If it were a chassis car, than weight taken off any where would not be an issue because of the adjustable suspension counter parts.
You could try it but I think you are going to be putting it right back.
Take any thing off from the rear of the door jams and forward. Anything.

Whack it off. Less weight is always good. That'll give you the incentive to take some off the front to get the distribution back.

Yes it matters. On a RWD drag car you want to take weight off the nose of the car first.

Just take it off! The way your car launches taking it off the rear may help things a lot more than some think. Just keep taking it away from EVERYWHERE you can. If you get to a point where bias is an issue you can always ad some ballast to make it happy.

It's gonna change the geometry of your chassis/suspension...how much weight it would have to be to make a difference I'm sure depends each person's setup.

Since i changed rear tires seems that traction is better on ify tracks. Got the big wheelies under control. If it dont like that much weight off the rear i could always add some. My car is just so heavy it hard to take off weight an still keep it looking like a car.

Thanks for the advice an tips!!

I just think weight management is an art form. I could be wrong when it comes to leaf sprung cars, but they tend to like door jam forward dieting.
Your car can lose a few pounds for sure (I would suspect that you weigh 200-210 lbs) which means that your car comes in at 3280-3300 lbs and it can be done while still looking like a car, but it will get more creatively expensive as it narrows down to the small stuff and ounces which all add up at the end.
I guess try the removal out back and make sure that it can be reversed. If I'm wrong, let me know for sure. I can take it on the chin.

My philosophy is simple.

Make it as light as you can afford, then.......make it work.


If you listen, every system on a car will tell you what it wants.

Soak an wet with my pockets full I'm $1.70

If its worth .01 im happy. Maybe it takes 7hp to carry that 50lbs well thats 7hp less i gotta make.

I'm 175 wet with chump change in the pockets.
A little bird told me that an early B-body can be brought down to the thin line of 3100 lbs while keeping all steel parts.
Like said things like bolts, nuts, washers, cutting out access fat in panels that are not structural, Bubble windshields, Lexan windows with aluminum tracks that actually roll up and down like stock, aluminum interior panels, all undercoating, sound deadening removed, Aluminum hood pins, lightweight bumper brackets, aluminum radiator and aluminum front valance panels, aluminum steering column, lightweight center links, you name it and soon enough it will be a contender.
Like you said 572, why have to make more horses when you can take the weight loss courses.

What I have left that weights the most is bench seat. But I refuse to take it out.

Like sport440 said, study the seat. I know that the bench seats weigh exactly 100 lbs. I had one in mine, out it came and in its place came the A-100's with hardware. See if you can take weight out of the half that you do not sit on and fabricate it to look like factory stock. I would.
The F.A.S.T guys have some of these tricks up their sleeves I'm sure.
Lighten the front by fabricating the grille to resemble the 64'Hemi A-864 mug. Gut the hood to only the skin and re-inforce where the hood hinges poke through.
Aluminum strut rods, gutted glove box door, shorten all wiring harnesses, Plastic head lights, Aluminum door hinges, I know a guy that makes them just like the Factory, (Your doors should be lighten as well to accommodate the hinges because they may weaken with stock door weight) aluminum brackets for all the accessories on motor, Thin wall aircraft stainless 304 tubing for the exhaust, Aluminum exhaust hangers, Anodized aluminum cover for the Dana rear, Braile battery,

There is nothing behind doors panals or panals in the rear nothing..lol no headlights its decals. Have light weight battery. Bumpers are both fiberglass with aluminum brackets. Its all lexan no glass. Nothing under the dash. Never thought of aluminum door bracket good idea! Passenger side of seat is gutted underneath.

Shawn...Where did you get your headlight decals? I will be watching this thread as I want to get around 100# off mine...

If you like, I'll link you up to the guy. Give a couple of days cause I'm dealing with some Family matters now. I'm on here to purge the stress. If only my car could run on a bottle of Stress, I'd be unbeatable on the street and track.