Normally I can do the basic ID thing, but all my stuff is at my friends house while remodeling, thus my need for some info. I bought this 440 block, fly wheel, truck 4brr aircleaner and crankshaft for like $80 (I figured with the price so low, what do I have to loose?).

FLywheel number is #3705410 unsure if it's to the 440.

block is a motorhome block or truck, figure 8 passages and looks to have been bored over .030 and still has the cross hatching in the cylinders. Though the water passages have some powered dust, the block is pretty clean for something sitting outside in a puddle in a plastic bag for over a year. Here are some numbers off it:

Pad
4T 440 HP
2 2 1

vin pad
4A225160

casting numbers on side

1-24-74 date
3698880-440-7 core shift number

Her is the crankshaft, which has no numbers on it, just a cast '5' in the front throw and a 'R'in the throw. I would almost swear it's forged, as when I banged it, it had the crispest sound I ever hear in a crank, not the thicker sound of a cast unit. Now if you look at the crank, it's grey in color. I figured the guy might have just painted it. I come to find out after I bought it, it was sitting in a puddle of water with no pertection and it has no rust on it? Comes to find out the stuff came from a machine shop that went out of business and the parts were sold as property adandons. Never seen a crankshaft that could sit in a water soaked bag outside and not rust, weird.

Here is a link to more pictures:
http://s198.photobucket.com/albums/aa253/moparkillers/?special_track=nav_tab_my_albums

anybody has any info?

1974 440 with a forged crank.

I kinda figured that out. Any other info would be helpful.

per the VIN#:
the block would've been originally in a '74 b-body Cop Car, Charger or Road Runner-GTX

The -7 is NOT a core shift number, it is a number telling how many repairs have been made to the core.
Think about it, core shift happens during the pour. Any numbers cast onto the block have to be in the mold before the pour.

The easiest way to tell the 440 cast crank is to look on the first crank counterweight. There will be the number "440" cast onto the edge of the counterweight. Also the counterweights are very square.
A forged crank could be either a 383/400 or a 440, it will have counterweights that have a more rounded shapes. to me they look like lima beans. A crank with lima-bean-shaped counterweights and 2.71 - 2.75" main diameters is a 413 or 440 forged crank. Most 413 cranks have a couple of tangs at the rod throws, they stick out and I think they were intended to throw oil around. Notice that they disappeared at some point when the engineers decided they weren't necessary. Also there are early 413 forged cranks with 8-bolt flat flywheel flanges, these aren't useful without modifiction.


Or check the pictures at www.440Source.com
R.

Core box it is, I left out an important word. Sorry. My point was that the number could not possibly have anything to do with the core shift of a particular block, unless the foundry had a time machine.
R.

And john, I was looking for more info on the crank and flywheel, so maybe you can help next time.

Ok let me see here, the block could be a cop car or muscle car block, nothing special just a nice block. Still has cross-hatching marks from when it was rebuilt.

Nobody has info on the crank, as it has NO NUMBERS on it what so ever or that is has a grey coating on it that has no signs of rust though it was being stored outside and exsposed for over a year plus part-way submerged in water? Also, it looks to have been machined, so the counter weight look to have been cut for balancing, hard to tell. That's why I'm having trouble figuring it out.

Thank you for clearing up the core shift number thing, I was up late and posting while I was tired.

Nobody knows what the flywheel goes to?

There isn't anything to figure out. It is just a forged crank. Mic the journals to see what size it has been turned to and then get it magnafluxed to see if it is cracked or not.

Thanks for the info guys. it's not the first forged crank I've seen or had. Just couldn't find any identifying marks on it. The stuff on the crank won't wipe of, and I can't even scratch it with a screwdriver or a carbite bit I had handy. I'll have to take it down to a machine shop and have them check it out. Thank you guys for your help.

Just a thought, if its a special coating, don't let the machine shop remove it from the journals. Have them try on one of the cast areas first to identify it. A hardened surface can be ground. This sounds really far fetched, but it looks like a Tungsten Carbide coating that we spray on our turbine shafts. We then have it ground to final dimension leaving a very hard and smooth journal surface. In fact, its so hard that we have yet to replace a shaft due to catastophic bearing failure. Needs special grinding wheels though.

Thank you for your info. I am unfamiliar with that kind of stuff and was slightly confused by it. I'll ask the machine shop when I take it down.