To go from power to manual operated brakes what do I need to do? I have front disk brakes and 11" rear drums. I know I may have to get another master cylinder because it will be manual. What master cylinder do I get and what adapter-firewall do I get? Thanks!

i use a manual disk brake master cyl off 80 doge p-up
don't use adapter take small steel plate drill the the 4 holes , mount then drill 2 new holes in the center mount I'm done.

Sounds good. Do I need a new pushrod for it or anything else? And can I keep the stock brake line if I bend it a little since it will be sitting back quite a bit back?

what make/model/yr. Yes you'll need a manual brake pushrod and check that the M/C you select has a shallow machined recess in the rear tapered opening of the piston for the rubber retainer (a snip of vac hose works fine)to lock into. It cant be smooth tapered like the inside of a thimble. Yes you can carefully bend the lines & maintain some of the loop and check M/C port diameters against the male inverted flare fittings on your lines for a matchup

new master cyl comes with the little rubber end,
as for the rod , we used the stock one off the power brake and re-cut it on the middle put a turning nut on it and 2 lock nuts, made it adjustable you don't we did ,
well as for lines , need 1 adaptor , we re flaired mine so it looks like it was made for the car
good luck hope it helps
dennis

Are you having a prob with the current power setup or just wanting more pedal feel or to lose the weight?

Robert, it's a 1974 dodge dart 360. I'm looking to get rid of some weight and also have better pedal feel. Is there any part numbers for these parts so I can order them?

Are there any considerations that should be taken as far as bore size of the master cylinder when converting to manual?

I am considering it myself with 4 wheels discs to save weight and to get the stupid booster out of my way.

Anyone? I think my truck is using a 1 inch bore now.
I am using single piston rear calipers and 4 piston calipers up front.

Is there a different machanical ratio pedal that will work better?

Check you pedal linkage as some cars like My wife's 72 Charger have a pedal reduction linkage and don't work very well when you simply take the booster away.

i did it on my '74 Challenger. took the booster and MC off. you need to get a manual brake firewall plate.
i got the manual MC from advance auto parts. they were so cheap i bought 3. got the adjustable push
rod from MP Brakes, cheap, easy, fits perfect. put it together and bleed it.

You want a manual brake pushrod and I have 2 and they are significantly different lengths and I dont know what they come off of. You could get one from the parts for sale section here probably for cheap but it'd take some time or a local JY would be faster. Could order the MP adjustable one but it'd take time and it is pricey. If your handy with taps/dies you could mod your PB one as mentioned earlier (which I have not done) if you are OK with losing a piece of your complete PB setup. Not sure of the ideal "perfect pedal effort feel" diameter but I have a similar setup to yours with a 1&1/8" M/C which is supposed to have too much pedal effortand the pedal effort is not excessive and I'm not that strong. Just confirm that your M/C choice has the machined wide shallow groove in the rear piston cavity just not smooth tapered like a thimble. The adapter plate is available commercially but is pricey and you can get a plate of aluminum and the bolt hole dimentions are in the archives and a countersink bit for the 2 holes in it for the alum M/C. Alum M/C's can have different piston position in relation to the flange than an iron one and or the flange is not the same thickness so I like to mockup the M/C/pushrod and select a plate of the right thickness to work with to set the pedal height right where I want it. On 4 wheel discs, calipers on all 4 corners take much more vol than 2 calipers/2 miniscule drum wheel cyls so I'd think the largest bore (1&1/8") M/C available. There is a thread with bore sizes of common OE alum M/C's & I tried to load it but it says I need a zpeg or some BS so here is the # on it if that is enough to let you retrieve it #6818302

Do I really need a adapter plate? Because since the master cylinder has 4 bolt holes and the fire wall has 4 bolts sticking out, cant these just go together or are the patterns different?

If I got this setup would it work?

Bracket

MC

Although I think that bracket MIGHT work, I don't think it really is the right one. There is another bracket that AR Engineering makes which is better. The adapter has studs that go through the firewall and for the m/c, which make it much easier to install. Frankly, it looks better also. Not sure who sells it, but the guy to talk to is Dr. Diff on this board. Perhaps he'll chime in.

Also, he can tell you, based on what you have and what you want, what bore diameter m/c would be best for your application.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/..._755201714____#
this is the master cylinder i use,
the adaptor if you wish to buy one,, they are all over the net, or just make one, that's what we did, why spend money when you most likley have all you need at home
j m o this is one of the most easy jobs on the car,

Never undid PB's so forgot about the large firewall opening so if it has that I believe you'll need the OE plate (or fab a similar one) to cover that then the aforementioned 4 to 2 adapter. If Summitt confirms that that M/C has the shallow groove for the manual brake pushrod neoprene retainer to lock into it'll work for you. If the firewall opening is covered and the M/C mounted with the right adapter you're (pretty much) good to go