Re: Is this a good Alternator test ...
[Re: SeventySatellite]
#1103462
10/28/11 09:58 PM
10/28/11 09:58 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,887
USA
CrAlt
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,887
USA
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No thats a bad idea..
If the regulator is bad then you could fry everything in the car.
Just get a volt meter and test it the right way.
I was asked to contribute money to help solve the civil unrest in Egypt, but I suspect it's some sort of pyramid scheme.
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Re: Is this a good Alternator test ...
[Re: SeventySatellite]
#1103464
10/28/11 10:57 PM
10/28/11 10:57 PM
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 12,481
Chino Valley
RodStRace
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 12,481
Chino Valley
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Wrong/bad/dumb way. RIGHT WAY Ensure battery is fully charged. Load test battery to make sure it's good. Install battery in car with good clean connections. Inspect alt., belt, mounts, wiring and regulator. Fix as needed. Perform starting draw test. Fix as needed. Start car and do a charging system test with a heavy load tester. Fix as needed. That's why people do the disconnect thing. It's quick and easy. It does NOT check all the components and circuits like you should, and it can cause damage. 
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Re: Is this a good Alternator test ...
[Re: DANA60]
#1103470
10/29/11 09:16 AM
10/29/11 09:16 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,027
Tulsa OK
Bad340fish
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,027
Tulsa OK
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I did that quick and easy test once in high school. My car(barracuda) was running with the headlights on, I pulled the cable and the car started to die so I put it back on. That was dumb lol, it burned out every single light bulb in the car that was on other than the tach light(autometer). Evidently the regulator told the alternator to go full steam and when the battery was hooked back up it caused a voltage spike. The only lights that worked after this were the turn signals, brake lights, and high beams, the only lights not turned on at the time.
I spent a good chunk of change at the parts store for all the lights.
I recently canned the mopar charging system. I put a GM CS130 alternator on the car. Now with headlights, electric water pump, fuel pump, and fan it idles at 13.9 volts. Thats with a 5" crank pulley even.
68 Barracuda Formula S 340
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Re: Is this a good Alternator test ...
[Re: SeventySatellite]
#1103472
10/29/11 11:00 AM
10/29/11 11:00 AM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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Quote:
I read this somewhere awhile back but I haven't tried it yet. Remove positive, hold it above post, if car dies then it's a bad Alternator.
Bad Idea, don't do it.......if you want a "poor mans" test for the charging system quick diagnosis,...
Try this, with the car running, take a screwdriver and touch the bearing, located in the CENTER of the REAR CASE, if you feel magnetic attraction, the alternator is working, however, if the battery is still not charging, chances are it's the voltage regulator, this is just a "quick" diagnosis test to generally locate the issue,...you should have a meter to understand exactly where and what is going on in the system
mike
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Re: Is this a good Alternator test ...
[Re: DAYCLONA]
#1103473
10/29/11 11:22 AM
10/29/11 11:22 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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What Dayclona said. Yes rarely a diode or maybe something else inside the alt is reducing it's output but k.i.s.s. that'll quickly confirm/deny the alt as the prob then let you move on to the reg/grounds etc. #1 in electrical is a good battery that's been PROPERLY load tested to confirm it's good EDIT and first it must be fully charged for a valid test as in slow charge overnight
Last edited by RapidRobert; 10/29/11 07:40 PM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Is this a good Alternator test ...
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1103474
10/29/11 12:46 PM
10/29/11 12:46 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,073
Niles , Ohio
therocks
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
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oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,073
Niles , Ohio
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Easy just take it to any Big Brand parts store.They will test the whole system free.I like load testing the alt.That way you know how many amps it puts out under a load.Rocky
Chrysler Firepower
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Re: Is this a good Alternator test ...
[Re: Bad340fish]
#1103475
10/29/11 09:25 PM
10/29/11 09:25 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,001
Coram, NY
Pool Fixer
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,001
Coram, NY
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Quote:
I did that quick and easy test once in high school. My car(barracuda) was running with the headlights on, I pulled the cable and the car started to die so I put it back on. That was dumb lol, it burned out every single light bulb in the car that was on other than the tach light(autometer). Evidently the regulator told the alternator to go full steam and when the battery was hooked back up it caused a voltage spike. The only lights that worked after this were the turn signals, brake lights, and high beams, the only lights not turned on at the time.
I spent a good chunk of change at the parts store for all the lights.
I recently canned the mopar charging system. I put a GM CS130 alternator on the car. Now with headlights, electric water pump, fuel pump, and fan it idles at 13.9 volts. Thats with a 5" crank pulley even.
I don't see the need to totally can the mopar charging system. Modify? YES... but you can easily run a 130 amp denso of an early 2000's chrysler product and retain the external regulator. Add a fat wire between alt and starter relay and it's good to go.
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Re: Is this a good Alternator test ...
[Re: SeventySatellite]
#1103476
10/30/11 09:54 AM
10/30/11 09:54 AM
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 616
TP Exit 7, NJ, USA
DANA60
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 616
TP Exit 7, NJ, USA
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he bottom line is: What makes you think the charging system is bad? If your alt meter in the car shows a discharge then yes things need to be checked. If a volt meter is not showing more then 13.5-14.5, then things need to be checked. Yes, you could go to the GM style, but that's not ness. if things are checked and fixed. I, and I'm sure all Mopar owners, have had their issues with the stock charging systems for decades and they do work. Five items: Alternator, voltage regulator, wire conections (black from alt., VR field conections, bulkhead, alt. meter conection, redwire back out to battery) and battery. It's not complicated.
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Re: Is this a good Alternator test ...
[Re: Pool Fixer]
#1103478
10/30/11 01:15 PM
10/30/11 01:15 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,027
Tulsa OK
Bad340fish
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,027
Tulsa OK
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Quote:
Quote:
I did that quick and easy test once in high school. My car(barracuda) was running with the headlights on, I pulled the cable and the car started to die so I put it back on. That was dumb lol, it burned out every single light bulb in the car that was on other than the tach light(autometer). Evidently the regulator told the alternator to go full steam and when the battery was hooked back up it caused a voltage spike. The only lights that worked after this were the turn signals, brake lights, and high beams, the only lights not turned on at the time.
I spent a good chunk of change at the parts store for all the lights.
I recently canned the mopar charging system. I put a GM CS130 alternator on the car. Now with headlights, electric water pump, fuel pump, and fan it idles at 13.9 volts. Thats with a 5" crank pulley even.
I don't see the need to totally can the mopar charging system. Modify? YES... but you can easily run a 130 amp denso of an early 2000's chrysler product and retain the external regulator. Add a fat wire between alt and starter relay and it's good to go.
I agree that can be done and would work great.
I only use the factory wiring for the lights and wipers, everything else runs off of a relay panel I made(elec water pump, fuel pump, fan, MSD.) I mainly went with the GM alternator as it fit the only bracket available for a small block with a mezziere water pump.
68 Barracuda Formula S 340
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