About a month ago, a friend adjusted my six pack on my T/A and fixed a small fuel leak on center carb. Timed it and set float level. Car runs alot smoother and peformed better, idled a little easier and didn't seem to be loading up like before. I drove it home, about 10 miles, parked in garage and forgot about it till the other day. I go to start it and it wouldn't fire. Thought I might have flooded it since it is easier to start now. It was never hard to start just took a while to warm up. Car has electronic ignition now so I replaced ballast resistor, no spark, checked all connections, no visible problems and everything is tight. Checked coil and fuseable link. Coil has 12 volts to it. pulled distributor cap and everything is dry and appears fine. Checked bulkhead connections at firewall for vibration loosening. Pulled plug and no spark at all while cranking. Coil is the only thing that I can think of left to replace, didn't have 1 at the present time to switch. It currently has a reproduction chrysler coil on it now or I assume its a repro. Is there anything I'm not checking that should be checked? Anything on electronic ignition I overlooked? Keep in mind this is a heated garage kept, low mileage car, that is very original for the most part. Just trying to rule out anyone thinking that it was something like moisture in the distributor cap or weather related. Thanks for any help!

when you checked 12 volts to the coil that was when you were trying to start it? right. then you had no voltage out of the coil to the distrb right?

4 pin ECU/2 terminal (single) ballast? Take the yellow "ign" wire off of the starter relay to disable the starter and have a helper hold the key to start & (1) the coil primary positive terminal and (2) the "point" of the ECU pentastar both need fire. Seperate the pull apart dist 2 wire connector and tap tap tap ground the male terminal on the eng half of the connector with key held to start & see if a plug wire sparks & if so a dist pickup problem. plug dist back in & take off all wires from the coil neg primary terminal and key held to start & with a jumper wire with alligator clips ground the coil neg pri terminal (not the wire(s) you removed from it) to ground repeatedly like Morse Code & see if the coil secondary wire now sparks & if so bad ECU or ECU has lost its' ground. EDIT could possibly be an open in the wiring circuits connecting/triggering the coil/dist/ECU to each other. We've already checked on the wiring circuits feeding 12V to the coil/ECU from the ign switch out thru the bulkhead to them. Holler back with any news

Thanks I'll check today. Yes 12volt to coil with ignition on.

most likely just a grounding issue. pull the ECU, clean up the metal to metal ground. it's gonna be something simple since nothing has changed.................

Did you check both sides of the ballast? You need at least 9 going into the coil. Keep going around the system with the meter and you'll find the issue.

Electronic ignition module was bad. I guess i'm lucky it went bad at home! Thanks for the help!

Orange. Mopar part# on it.

I knew it EDIT the fact that the eng acted up shortly after your buddy worked on the fuel system just confused the issue. You're good now