my block cracked i am guessing about 2 weekends ago when i now think about the fresh antifreeze on the floor under the starter area. two weekends i made a first pass at cecil and went 10.27@132.74 then got rid of the hesitation and went from a 1.55 to a 1.48 and that pass should of been in the 10.1xS and it busted the block after the 1/8 mile.
the crack started in the freezeplug area just at the starter and goes forward maybe 5". i bet it was there a couple of weeks but i could not find the cause when the engine was cold. must of went through all the way at cecil
so now i have to decide on the next step and risk busting another block or get a race block ot hard block my spare 440 block halfway for strength.
what did you guys run in to cracking blocks and how far is normal to push a stock one? i think this may be a 73. if anyone needs to know i can look later as i pull the proparts headers of.

buy a good race block. why run a 40yr old block. stay safe, seeya.

i can't think of where i HAVEN'T seen a stock block crack.

Yep.....right up the mains.

#3 cylinder wall, just got my mega block last week to switch everything over.

2 different cracks at different times in the same block. Outer crack between the core plugs. Ran Moroso Ceramic seal for 3 years without a leak. Had a slight vibration during warm-up. Had the 3rd round won and lifted at 1000ft. Then a big vibration. Pulled the #1 and #2 bulkheads right out of the block. Crank broke in half. I feel the crank failed due to the block failure.Block had aluminum caps,Mopar 4.150 crank.
Doug

I have had Mopar RB/B and Hemi blocks with cracks fix by a god machine shop, they can drill and install pins inthe crack, it is expensive, $100.00 and inch is what I remember and it has been awhile since I had one fixed Call around, BTW block filler will not seal the crack, been there done that Goodson sells some really good crack sealer, I have used it also and it flat works as long as you follow the instructions. It will need to be bake in a oven for a set period of time at or above 300 F , I think. Contact Goodson if your interested Pin it and use the sealer from Goodson

I had one block crack vertical and just had it welded. I will have to look at the bill but this is a street motor.
Had another 440 crack vertical and it just seeped a little so some bars leak tablets in the water and all was good for 3 years till it dropped a valve this spring. I believe it has a couple horizontal cracks by the casting dates but didn't even pressure test it as the block has a cracked cyl now also from the dropped valve.

I pressure test all my blocks before using as I bought a running motor once and when tested it was cracked. This is the welded street motor I am doing now.
David

Had a stock block crack between the core plugs on the passenger side due to freezing. Machine shop used a lock-and-stitch method that worked quite well along with Blue Devil Ceramic sealer. Got an entire season out of it at the 650 HP range. If you can get access to the crack it could be done in the car, otherwise you will have to pull the motor. It is something you could do yourself with the right tools. Lock-n-stitch

I had a 440 develop a 3" horizontal crack b/t the freeze plugs on the passenger side. It did not freeze, so I guess it was a stress crack. It was a well seasoned 600 hp motor.

I had one freeze and crack between the freeze plugs on the left side above the starter.I used some of that K&W Block seal and actually watch that seal seal it self up right be for your eyes ran that block for about another 8 years.........

P.S that's why I'm hoping to get one of there short deck Koleno blocks when they r in production.

Number 6 cylinder cracked vertical from the bottom to top of water jacket.

Forgot to post that the 440 was put together in 2005 and had tons of passes, street and strip.
The motor made 615 hp on the dyno and it served us Very well.
It Never froze so all the cracks were from stress and it had the factory style mounts but the solid versions.
David

well like i said mine was between freezout plugs on passanger side.
i am going to junk this cracked block with water getting into the inside.
i have a block and maybe access to a nother one. which ever one i use it is going to have block filler in it halfway up the waterjackets to stiffen it up.
the other option is a race block and till i am done it will be like 4500 to 5000 bucks. hell i just spent that a year ago on this one that cracked. i do not want to dump a ass load of money again one year later.
thanks for the replys. it is intresting to hear where the different areas crack.

it cracked up through the mains into the cylinders. i feel lucky i can reuse everything