My motor starving for oil.
The book "How to build SB engines says that the pick up tube is too small.
Will two pick up tubes work.

lets hear all your views, Please
Thanks

Lots of variables - RPM, clearances, etc. Quality and viscosity of oil can also be factored in. But I've been using stock p/u's in my current car since 1999 with Amsoil viscosities as low as 5w-30 with no issues. 6,700+ regularly and the pump is OEM pressure & volume!


Oops! Make that 5w-20.

Very mild porting/polishing of the OEM passage in the pump and main cap can help a bit.

Same here... stock pick up but with the pump holes
blended... running 7800 rpm

Dual pickups used to be a common trick but I haven't seen it for a few years now. Someone used to sell a dual pickup kit but I don't think it is available anymore?

Some people port the oil pump and use a larger pickup tube.

Its a 360, running 11's in a Rambler.
I thought about the oil gear's clearance on the oil pump face plate.
Why is it starving for oil? I don't know but over the last 25 years I have lost a BUNCH of motors due to oil starvation.

Trust me i have been through it all on preparing engines to live but still sometimes it just isn't in the cards for them to stay together.

This was a brand new 360 complete rotating kit. I think the clevite's are crap. cast cranks don't like them. Using King aluminum bearings only from now on, BUT...

What about the my pump with 2 pick up tubes?? run thinner oil and it could be a go??

I have also massaged out the orifice of the main cap and pump inlet on engines before.
Still the latest "How To" book says that the pick up tubes are too small.
Yes I am aware that many engines run good and live with stock tube sizes but what I am after is OVERKILL ON OILING !!!

Givin it a shot unless someone knows for sure that this is a big NO NO

Thanks fellas

My first question would be what oil pan are you using? I and several friends have used a blueprinted stock pump in many combo's with success. Are you using a Hi Vol pump and the oil not draining back fast enough?

Well that is an interesting question, 'Is it not draining back to the pan?" How would I know ??
Its a stock truck pan. no mods to it.

11 second car, about 6500 spinning, foot brakin.
The bearings show flaking and the typical signs of starvation.
New HV pump

no baffles in pan. nothing done in valley to aid oil return.

hard to get my head around the possibility that 6 quarts of oil can't find its way back to the pan and get stuck up top.

will the pump work??

It takes a lot of oil to keep up with the 360 main bearings. I have had shops try to set it up with too much clearance and it would pump the pan dry with a high volume pump. Alway ran a high volume with the 360 mains I ran. I would however try a standard pump with 340 mains.

Are you sure the plug in the drivers side rear of the oil galley is in place. I have seen many left out and had big problems. I also ran a roller cam with the oil galley tubed. Ran Harland SHarps and restricted oil to the heads also. Holley #66 main jet works great on the Passenger side and #72 on the drivers side. The cam I ran had the journal ground to oil the rockers full time. Spun that puppy 8400 in the quarter with no problems.

I think you have clearance extremes or oil control problems that are not getting the oil back to the pan. Wait, truck pans are only 6 quarts. Will a KEVCO pan work they are bigger. Probably 8 quarts.

Another thing if you are running too much ignition timing you may be beating the oil out of the bearings.

Leon

you sure dont need 2 pick ups if it is sucking the pan dry with one. So if it happens to a lot of your engines, then you are doing something wrong. Too many small block combos here running the same rpm's, with more than you got going on, and running strong. Just my opinion.

I believe that a high volume pump is great as long as you have a large pan. Several people I know were contunually spinning bearings when they ran a high volume pump with a stock pan. Once I got them to use a stock pump with the stock pan their bearing problems went away.

I run a 360 in my stock eliminator Duster that runs low to mid 11's. I run a stock Melling pump. I shift at 6600 and go thru the lights at 7000. I run 5-30 Valvoline synthetic oil. I have 40 lbs at idle and 65 lbs when I go thru the lights.

Raul

If either one loses prime, the other one stops pulling oil.

it looks like your treating the symptom and not the root cause. solve the oil pan issue, the drain back issue and make sure you have the proper oil clearance for the bearings and the stock size pickup will be more than adequate.

I an running a R3 block with a Kevko oil pan, wile I was priming the engine I had only put 4 liters of oil in the pan and I sucked the pan dry. Of cores the engine is cold the oil is cold so very slow drain back. But at the track with the 7 liters in it I was loosing oil pressure on de-cell.So knowing there is at least half the oil traveling through the engine and only half in the pan, if you are lucky, I added another liter to the pan and solved the problem.this can only mean I was sucking air on de-cell wile the oil was forced forward. it just goes to show you there is very little oil in the pan at hi rpm's
Oil level and oil pump pick up adjustment are critical.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=103623

BTW there is 9 quarts of oil in the Canton 7 quart pan and the level still shows to be 1/2 quart low on the dipstick from the stock oil level.