Which coil???
#1059447
08/22/11 02:24 PM
08/22/11 02:24 PM
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 95
Idaho, USA
White440
OP
member
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OP
member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 95
Idaho, USA
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Hey guy's I've put a new ignition in my '88 w150 318 for my tbi swap and was thinking of up grading my coil and wires. I thought I would get me a good set of 8.5's(wires) but don't know what a good coil choice would be? Maybe a Blaster2?? I have seen the Accel coils around but haven't had anything to do with them so I really don't know how good they are. This is the ignition I used, http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/40031/10002/-1Your  would be great.
Last edited by White440; 08/22/11 03:39 PM.
"Full throttle until you see GOD then brake!" <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/drive.gif" alt="" /> Life's to short to ride the brakes!
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Re: Witch coil???
[Re: White440]
#1059448
08/22/11 03:03 PM
08/22/11 03:03 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,712
Moved to N.E. Tennessee
GomangoCuda
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,712
Moved to N.E. Tennessee
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Do a search. This exact subject has been seriously thrashed in the last 2 weeks. Your next question will/should be "which ballast resistor do I need to use". You are going to get wildly conflicting answers to that one.  They will come up in the above search also. [edit] Ok it might be more like 2 months instead of 2 weeks. Sorry, the older I get the faster time flies. Do we have an old guy smiley? Maybe this one.  The MSD Blaster2 will work fine but there is widely differing opinion about the correct (if any) ballast resistor to use with it. According to MSD the Mopar boxes need a total of at least 1.5 ohms to prevent overheating the transistor. The blaster2 is a 100 turn, .7ohm coil and you should therefore use at least a .8 ohm ballast(which incidentaly is the one they sell). This is not to protect the coil, it is to protect the transistor on the box from overheating. The .25 ohm ballast that Mopar sells was intended for racing with a chrome box and a similar .7 ohm 100 turn Accel coil. "Not recommended for continued operation at speeds below 3,000 rpm for more than 30-minute periods." For street use with either a chrome or orange box and a blaster2 or equivalent use a .8 or 1.0 ohm ballast. Some people on here do not agree and have apparently used the .25 ohm or no ballast for many years without box failure. Others have not had that same experience. I would suggest that if you choose to roll the dice and run less than a .8 ohm ballast that it might be a good idea to have a spare box in the trunk. If you use a CD ignition like the multisparks sold by MSD, Mallory And Crane or any ECU that is internally regulated(like GM HEI or Pertronics)then you would not need a ballast with the blaster2.
Last edited by GomangoCuda; 08/22/11 08:57 PM.
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Re: Witch coil???
[Re: Challenger 1]
#1059452
08/22/11 03:49 PM
08/22/11 03:49 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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I would use a pertronix flamethrower coil and by-pass the BR I also like to run a points dist with a pertronix Ignitor I points conversion and their 40,000 volt chrome flamethrower coil. right now in the 88 truck with 440 I run a points dist with pointsand the big Accel super coil with BR by-passed another topic that goes with that ?...do I mount it vertical or horozontal???  all mine have been horozontal for yrs, in the sig pic is my smaller accel super coil for points,but I uped to the larger one last week for a change,they both work well 
Last edited by scratchnfotraction; 08/22/11 03:51 PM.
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Re: Witch coil???
[Re: GomangoCuda]
#1059454
08/22/11 09:15 PM
08/22/11 09:15 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,439
So Cal
Sinitro
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,439
So Cal
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Quote:
Do a search. This exact subject has been seriously thrashed in the last 2 weeks.
Your next question will/should be "which ballast resistor do I need to use". You are going to get wildly conflicting answers to that one. They will come up in the above search also.
[edit] Ok it might be more like 2 months instead of 2 weeks. Sorry, the older I get the faster time flies. Do we have an old guy smiley? Maybe this one.
The MSD Blaster2 will work fine but there is widely differing opinion about the correct (if any) ballast resistor to use with it. According to MSD the Mopar boxes need a total of at least 1.5 ohms to prevent overheating the transistor. The blaster2 is a 100 turn, .7ohm coil and you should therefore use at least a .8 ohm ballast(which incidentaly is the one they sell). This is not to protect the coil, it is to protect the transistor on the box from overheating. The .25 ohm ballast that Mopar sells was intended for racing with a chrome box and a similar .7 ohm 100 turn Accel coil. "Not recommended for continued operation at speeds below 3,000 rpm for more than 30-minute periods." For street use with either a chrome or orange box and a blaster2 or equivalent use a .8 or 1.0 ohm ballast. Some people on here do not agree and have apparently used the .25 ohm or no ballast for many years without box failure. Others have not had that same experience. I would suggest that if you choose to roll the dice and run less than a .8 ohm ballast that it might be a good idea to have a spare box in the trunk.
Lets set the record straight...
Direct quote from the Mopar Performance catalog, page 119..
" With the Blaster Coils and Mopar ignition kits P3690426, P3690427 and P3690428, use the 1/4 Ohm ballast resistor (P2444641)"...
Note that many installs may mix/match various ignition components, but IMHO what the factory says to use is a good starting point...
Just my $0.02... 
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Re: Witch coil???
[Re: Sinitro]
#1059455
08/22/11 11:57 PM
08/22/11 11:57 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,712
Moved to N.E. Tennessee
GomangoCuda
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,712
Moved to N.E. Tennessee
|
Quote:
Quote:
Do a search. This exact subject has been seriously thrashed in the last 2 weeks.
Your next question will/should be "which ballast resistor do I need to use". You are going to get wildly conflicting answers to that one. They will come up in the above search also.
[edit] Ok it might be more like 2 months instead of 2 weeks. Sorry, the older I get the faster time flies. Do we have an old guy smiley? Maybe this one.
The MSD Blaster2 will work fine but there is widely differing opinion about the correct (if any) ballast resistor to use with it. According to MSD the Mopar boxes need a total of at least 1.5 ohms to prevent overheating the transistor. The blaster2 is a 100 turn, .7ohm coil and you should therefore use at least a .8 ohm ballast(which incidentaly is the one they sell). This is not to protect the coil, it is to protect the transistor on the box from overheating. The .25 ohm ballast that Mopar sells was intended for racing with a chrome box and a similar .7 ohm 100 turn Accel coil. "Not recommended for continued operation at speeds below 3,000 rpm for more than 30-minute periods." For street use with either a chrome or orange box and a blaster2 or equivalent use a .8 or 1.0 ohm ballast. Some people on here do not agree and have apparently used the .25 ohm or no ballast for many years without box failure. Others have not had that same experience. I would suggest that if you choose to roll the dice and run less than a .8 ohm ballast that it might be a good idea to have a spare box in the trunk.
Lets set the record straight...
Direct quote from the Mopar Performance catalog, page 119..
" With the Blaster Coils and Mopar ignition kits P3690426, P3690427 and P3690428, use the 1/4 Ohm ballast resistor (P2444641)"...
Note that many installs may mix/match various ignition components, but IMHO what the factory says to use is a good starting point...
Just my $0.02...
I can quote also. "Ballast Resistor, for Mechanical Advance Distributor, Using P3690560 and P4876832/33 Coils. 1/4 OHM, Race Only "
The reason it says RACE ONLY is because this is actually a mismatch of parts. For best all out performance these coils want 12 volts but the ecu's are not designed to switch that and should have a .8 ohm resistor for street use with this coil. The .8 ohm ballast WILL reduce the coil output(certainly not optimal but usable) but keep the ecu happy. For RACE USE you can get away with the .25 ohm resistor. Here is another quote for you.
"Not recommended for continued operation at speeds below 3,000 rpm for more than 30-minute periods."
For this reason I don't use a Blaster coil on a street car. It is a good race coil with 1/4 ohm or no Ballast but there are better choices for use on the street with a Mopar ecu.
Last edited by GomangoCuda; 08/23/11 12:09 AM.
In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.
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Re: Witch coil???
[Re: GomangoCuda]
#1059456
08/23/11 12:16 AM
08/23/11 12:16 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,439
So Cal
Sinitro
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,439
So Cal
|
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Do a search. This exact subject has been seriously thrashed in the last 2 weeks.
Your next question will/should be "which ballast resistor do I need to use". You are going to get wildly conflicting answers to that one. They will come up in the above search also.
[edit] Ok it might be more like 2 months instead of 2 weeks. Sorry, the older I get the faster time flies. Do we have an old guy smiley? Maybe this one.
The MSD Blaster2 will work fine but there is widely differing opinion about the correct (if any) ballast resistor to use with it. According to MSD the Mopar boxes need a total of at least 1.5 ohms to prevent overheating the transistor. The blaster2 is a 100 turn, .7ohm coil and you should therefore use at least a .8 ohm ballast(which incidentaly is the one they sell). This is not to protect the coil, it is to protect the transistor on the box from overheating. The .25 ohm ballast that Mopar sells was intended for racing with a chrome box and a similar .7 ohm 100 turn Accel coil. "Not recommended for continued operation at speeds below 3,000 rpm for more than 30-minute periods." For street use with either a chrome or orange box and a blaster2 or equivalent use a .8 or 1.0 ohm ballast. Some people on here do not agree and have apparently used the .25 ohm or no ballast for many years without box failure. Others have not had that same experience. I would suggest that if you choose to roll the dice and run less than a .8 ohm ballast that it might be a good idea to have a spare box in the trunk.
Lets set the record straight...
Direct quote from the Mopar Performance catalog, page 119..
" With the Blaster Coils and Mopar ignition kits P3690426, P3690427 and P3690428, use the 1/4 Ohm ballast resistor (P2444641)"...
Note that many installs may mix/match various ignition components, but IMHO what the factory says to use is a good starting point...
Just my $0.02...
I can quote also. "Ballast Resistor, for Mechanical Advance Distributor, Using P3690560 and P4876832/33 Coils. 1/4 OHM, Race Only "
The reason it says RACE ONLY is because this is actually a mismatch of parts. For best all out performance these coils want 12 volts but the ecu's are not designed to switch that and should have a .8 ohm resistor with this coil. The .8 ohm ballast WILL reduce the coil output but keep the ecu happy. For RACE USE you can get away with the .25 ohm resistor. Here is anouther quote for you.
"Not recommended for continued operation at speeds below 3,000 rpm for more than 30-minute periods."
You are throwing random quotes up..
The above quote..
"Not recommended for continued operation at speeds below 3,000 rpm for more than 30-minute periods."
Is not for the Blaster coil (#P48776732 or #P4876733) but for the race coil (#P3690560).. 
2 totally different parts..
As I mentioned previously, many times people will mix/match various ignition components but how well and how long they will run reliably is another question..
The key point of ballast resistor is not so much the voltage drop but rather its current limiting capability..
Just my $0.02...
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Re: Witch coil???
[Re: Sinitro]
#1059457
08/23/11 01:25 AM
08/23/11 01:25 AM
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 95
Idaho, USA
White440
OP
member
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OP
member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 95
Idaho, USA
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Ok guys I didn't mean to start a battle  BUT I still have one question. If you use a INTERNALLY regulated coil with 1.5 ohm ( my Mopar engines 9th edition tell me my orange box needs a min of 1.250) do you still need the BR or can you bypass it this way? thanks for the help
"Full throttle until you see GOD then brake!" <img src="/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/drive.gif" alt="" /> Life's to short to ride the brakes!
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since I added more info in my other post above.