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Looks like this thread may have run its course. I've got a bunch of stuff going on with my new bullet, but I will save it for my own thread.

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I don't think so just close to Christmas. I have other thing a lot more important than putting my car together.

Have a st of Apache heads that will soon be flowed on the same bench and fixture as the eagle heads and will be purchasing an aluminum G3.
I try posting in one area because the search function on this site is junk.
Matt

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Do you have the Aluminum block yet? Word on the street is that Chrysler is completely out of stock (dealers & distribution) and they haven't started casting anymore.

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Looks like this thread may have run its course. I've got a bunch of stuff going on with my new bullet, but I will save it for my own thread.

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I don't think so just close to Christmas. I have other thing a lot more important than putting my car together.

Have a st of Apache heads that will soon be flowed on the same bench and fixture as the eagle heads and will be purchasing an aluminum G3.
I try posting in one area because the search function on this site is junk.
Matt

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Do you have the Aluminum block yet? Word on the street is that Chrysler is completely out of stock (dealers & distribution) and they haven't started casting anymore.

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No, didnt even try looking. Hopefully Zippy will chime in and give use an update of the availability.
I would like to know who has been running the Aluminum block.
Are they good casting?
Did you ever figure out what happened with your 6.1?
There seams to be alot of 5.7 and 6.1 pushing 2 tons of anchor pretty fast.

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Haven't heard anything about aluminum block availability, AFAIK it's still ok but sometimes I am the last to find out about such things.

They've vendor ship direct, not stocked in a depot, so the order has to be placed for the part to be tracked down.

If somebody orders one and waits an excessive amount of time to get it, I can look into it and more than likely find out what the deal is. Until then I have to assume everything's cool....It would not really be fair for me to bug the machine shop asking about rumors.

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Thanks Zippy.
You guys have worked with the G3 aluminum. Any problems?
I will be If I spend 4000.00 for a block that needs work or leaks like the W5.
I would also like to find out if there is any truth the the mains seizing up.
If it is true guys are holding on to this secret like it is gold. IMO this is hurting the Mopar camp.
I know that there is R&D involved but save that for making power.

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With the dist front cover, I guess you can run like a MSD 7 series ignition then? Does anyone make a notor plate for them or does one need to fab up one themselves? We are hanging up the small block motors we are running and putting together 2 of the 5.7 hemis for our bracket cars. We have 3 early engines sitting on stands in our shop.

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NHRAmarks partner made my motor plate. here is his email

Bob.Ette@aeicnc.com

there is a problem that needs to be addressed and i could post pictures later. it involves useing a bbchevy water pump. on my water pump, the outlet is very close to the balancer. i am solving this by cutting 1/2inch out of the "legs" moving the whole water pump closer to the water plate. i may have pictures after this weekend of the mod.

another idea would be to do what member Steff did. he uses a remote pump and his motor plate is tapped for AN fittings.

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...&PHPSESSID=

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You guys have worked with the G3 aluminum. Any problems?
I will be If I spend 4000.00 for a block that needs work or leaks like the W5.
I would also like to find out if there is any truth the the mains seizing up.
If it is true guys are holding on to this secret like it is gold. IMO this is hurting the Mopar camp.
I know that there is R&D involved but save that for making power.

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hy guys these rods that are being throud are they stock,good aftermarket,bad aftermarket?????????? thanks jg309

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Aftermarket H beams for the most part....unfortunately it's not as simple as 'the rod broke because the rod was weak'. If it were that easy nobody would complain

The other important point? It's
primarily seen on vehicles that are shifted at 8000 rpm and higher.

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hy guys these rods that are being throud are they stock,good aftermarket,bad aftermarket?????????? thanks jg309

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Aftermarket H beams for the most part....unfortunately it's not as simple as 'the rod broke because the rod was weak'. If it were that easy nobody would complain

The other important point? It's
primarily seen on vehicles that are shifted at 8000 rpm and higher.

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I was told Arrow has no Aluminum Block castings in stock & Chrysler hasn't started casting more. This is second hand.....take it for what it's worth.

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Well here is where I am at with my own deal. Never got good answers on why these things are pitching rods at high rpm. I would rather deal with the valvetrain maintenance than take a chance on banging lower end parts. Looks like it would be a no brainer to go the new gen route if it were not for these things eating lower end parts with no good answer for why. Seems like some guys might have it figured out but they wont say what the problem is because they want to sell engines. Well I wont buy an engine that I know has issues and you wont tell me what the issue is and how to you fixed it.

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Well here is where I am at with my own deal. Never got good answers on why these things are pitching rods at high rpm. I would rather deal with the valvetrain maintenance than take a chance on banging lower end parts. Looks like it would be a no brainer to go the new gen route if it were not for these things eating lower end parts with no good answer for why. Seems like some guys might have it figured out but they wont say what the problem is because they want to sell engines. Well I wont buy an engine that I know has issues and you wont tell me what the issue is and how to you fixed it.

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Okay, here goes nothing and this is my opinion only and everyone has one lol.

Tuning, headers and DP intake manifold design.

First off header design. As you guys can see from the pic's the a/f bungs are reading primary tubes. I've seen this with both TTI's and ARH's. The bungs should be in the collector's so to read an average a/f of each bank. Most tuners tune with a/f #'s but if your only reading a/f's of off 3-4 cylinders, thats just not right.

The DP intake manifold design needs some popsicle sticks and epoxy with a carb or a good tuner that will tune each and every cylinder with EFI. I've dyno'd the 5.7 and 6.1 factory intakes, XV intake and the DP intake. Using 8 egt probes in the header primarie tubes, what I found is that the factory intake manifolds showed the egt's to be within 5*s at high rpm which is incredable. The DP intake not so much with the #3,4,5 and 6 showing the highest egt's. Now if tuners are tuning a/f's based off the rich cylinders (again, a/f bung location) the center cylinders are way lean and will be in detonation. An interesting fact is when I talked with the guys with blown up motors and asked them where their timing was set at WOT, most stated their tuners set them between 25 and 26*s. At the dyno with 105 tuning the timing and fuel curves, we heard audible knock at 27* and our DP engine made the most power and tq at 19.5*s thanks to the very efficient chamber design. I'm also a true believer in keeping the knock sensors in the tuning picture. Most tuners take those out of the equation, but I'd rather have the computer pull timing and fuel to save our very expensive engine if it goes into detonation.

Most the DP engines are built by a few and then tuned by a few certain individuals. Sometimes that marriage doesn't work. Been there done that. I also bet the majority of DP owner's just want to get in the car and hit the go fast pedal and have no clue about EFI tuning or how to data log a pass.

In conclusion and my personal opinion, the center rods get married to the crank because detonation is taking out the rod bearings. I also believe its not an oiling issue cause you would see more failures with the #7/8 bearings. I've asked a couple with blown engines to measure their after carnage piston taper for me to verify my theory, but no responses as of yet. I also would recommened tuning with egt's vs a/f's. I also think Barton would tune this way. Also need 6Packgut to figure out the popsicle stick and epoxy for a carb application. Happy holiday's.

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Man I hope that you are right and thank you for nutting up and sharing this info.

BIG

MERRY CHRISTMAS

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thanks Jerry. i was feeling a little abused today. tried calling you last week but you were out. talked to one of the guys in the shop for awhile

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