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Got a '74 Dart Sport, need some advice?
#1052667
08/14/11 01:16 PM
08/14/11 01:16 PM
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,087
Northeast, Arkansas
Dodgeman67
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,087
Northeast, Arkansas
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Me and my son just bought this car for a project, it runs a drives well. It was a 6 cylinder car, and the guy we bought it from put a 318 in it, and just made some solid mounts for the motor and used the 6 cylinder K member. It has drum brakes all the way around and no power brakes. The headers also hang 2-3 inches below the chassis, I don't think these are the correct headers for this car. As low as it sits it tends to scrap stuff occasionally while driving it. It also still has the 6 cylinder radiator, that will need upgraded as well. A few questions, what is the most economical way to go to add the disc brakes. Do all the headers for this car hang low like this one. Where is the best place to get a radiator. Will the 6 cylinder torsion bars have to be changed? The rear has the adapters for the wheels, what do you have to do to change the bolt pattern to the 4.5, I guess is what these crager rims are? The car has a good body, good paint, the interior is good, and it has everything for the air conditioning, we need to put the pump back on and build some lines, the condenser is on it, it was all hook up with the 6 cylinder. Here is a picture, any advice or help would be great.  If this needs to be in another section please move it. Thanks
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Re: Got a '74 Dart Sport, need some advice?
[Re: Dodgeman67]
#1052668
08/14/11 01:31 PM
08/14/11 01:31 PM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,848
Memphis
HemiRick
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,848
Memphis
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Go junkyarding and find disks off another Abody. this is the cheap way. It will also change the front to the right blot pattern.
The Cheap headers hang to low. There are some brands that do not.
call 1 800 radiator for a radiator.
If you want the car to handle properly and not have mushy front end you need to change the bars.
While at the junkyard get the rearend from a v8 car and this will solve the problem of weak 6 cyl rear and fix lugs.
Take care,
Rick
68 Coronet R/T 440 & 68 Charger 528 Hemi,and 5 Challengers! 6 cyl, 318, 360, 383, 451
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Re: Got a '74 Dart Sport, need some advice?
[Re: HemiRick]
#1052670
08/14/11 01:35 PM
08/14/11 01:35 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,713
North Dakota
6PakBee
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,713
North Dakota
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The solid engine mounts would bother me in a street car.
"We live in a time when intelligent people are being silenced so that stupid people won't be offended".
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Re: Got a '74 Dart Sport, need some advice?
[Re: Dodgeman67]
#1052671
08/14/11 01:36 PM
08/14/11 01:36 PM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,848
Memphis
HemiRick
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,848
Memphis
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Nope you'd have better luck in littler remote country junkyards. The yards around here been picked clean of this stuff long ago. Unless you happen to run into a recent arrival.
Last edited by HemiRick; 08/14/11 01:37 PM.
Take care,
Rick
68 Coronet R/T 440 & 68 Charger 528 Hemi,and 5 Challengers! 6 cyl, 318, 360, 383, 451
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Re: Got a '74 Dart Sport, need some advice?
[Re: Dodgeman67]
#1052672
08/14/11 01:39 PM
08/14/11 01:39 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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get the disc spindles/adapters/rotors/UCA's from a disc 73-76 A body & rebuilt calipers are cheap ~$15 & request 76 A calipers as the bores are ~ 3/32" larger than 73-75 calipers which'll give you more front bias, always a good thing. Not sure on what headers to recommend maybe dougs or tti & no not supposed to hang that low. Can keep the same t bars. Might spring for a good Champion 3 row rad esp as I'm sure he will be hotrodding it & this'll give him the cooling capacity to support any future upgrades. Can get a BBP 7&1/4 rear from the same 73-76 A w discs or step up to a 8&3/4 if any immediate hot rodding is on the agenda EDIT but an A body 8&3/4 will b SBP so axle upgrade needed either have Moser cut down a set of 1/2T pickup 8&3/4 ones or Doc Diff here on the board
Last edited by RapidRobert; 08/14/11 01:46 PM.
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Got a '74 Dart Sport, need some advice?
[Re: RapidRobert]
#1052673
08/14/11 02:08 PM
08/14/11 02:08 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,176
Park Forest, IL
slantzilla
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,176
Park Forest, IL
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IIRC, the '73 and up Slant cars used 318 torsion bars anyway.
"Everybody funny, now you funny too."
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Re: Got a '74 Dart Sport, need some advice?
[Re: Dodgeman67]
#1052674
08/14/11 03:14 PM
08/14/11 03:14 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 12,419
Kalispell Mt.
HotRodDave
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 12,419
Kalispell Mt.
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I wish you were close by, I have 3 complete BBP disc brake parts cars (one is a dart sport)I could sell a cheap set up from, even the correct V8 K-member on two of em. I don't mind shipping stuff but it could get pricy as that stuff is kinda heavy.
You can keep the slant six bars, they work better to transfer weight to the rear tires on launch but handle slightly worse on the street than the V8 bars. Not very noticable either way.
For a rear end you can use a BBP 7.25 rear but it will not last long behind any V8. The next cheapest effective option is a 8.25 from a 73+ a-body. They hold up good behind a little power and are cheap and easy to get parts frmo and have the big bolt pattern.
Most headers for a-bodys do drag on the ground all the time, TTI does not and I think Dougs makes some that don't, both are pricy.
For the radiator get one for an AC V8 car from your local parts store or the above mentioned radiator place. Just tell them your car is AC and V8.
I am not causing global warming, I am just trying to hold off a impending Ice Age!
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Re: Got a '74 Dart Sport, need some advice?
[Re: slantzilla]
#1052677
08/14/11 09:59 PM
08/14/11 09:59 PM
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,087
Northeast, Arkansas
Dodgeman67
OP
super stock
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OP
super stock
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,087
Northeast, Arkansas
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Here is the header picture, this was after we raised the torsion bars about 3 rounds, and that helped. We have other issues now, the cars has an inline electric pump and it don't work all the time, you hear it running but it isn't pumping all the time, had to pull it home, tapped on the pump and it started back pumping, it would run, but no pumping. We changed the fuel filter, and apparently the tank had some old gas in it at some point, the old filter had some jelly gooey type stuff in it. Then the dang starter started acting up, had to tap on it to get it to crank the car. I don't think I will go buy any lottery tickets today.  
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Re: Got a '74 Dart Sport, need some advice?
[Re: Dodgeman67]
#1052678
08/14/11 10:31 PM
08/14/11 10:31 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,482
Lake Orion, MI
goldduster318
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,482
Lake Orion, MI
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Those are the normal cheapie a-body headers...to solve this you'll need doug's or TTI's.
I'd put a 60's B-body 8 3/4 underneath it. I have done this and it fits great in my '70 Duster. It was inexpensive and I got the 4.5" bolt pattern on the stock axles.
'70 Duster 470hp 340/T56 Magnum/8 3/4 3.23 Sure-Grip
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Re: Got a '74 Dart Sport, need some advice?
[Re: goldduster318]
#1052679
08/14/11 10:53 PM
08/14/11 10:53 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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there is an old hot rod trick of useing a v-8 truck engine mount with a car engine mount to swap a v-8 into a /6 k frame does it look like this or did he hack it inthere more or less? that will help solve the header trouble to know this,if its not sitting in the correct space no headers are gonna fit well and welcome to the the 3 under chassis tube headers for A-bodys the smash real ez,but you can work the t-bars and find a ride hieght that work once you learn what to watch for when driveing 
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Re: Got a '74 Dart Sport, need some advice?
[Re: scratchnfotraction]
#1052680
08/14/11 10:58 PM
08/14/11 10:58 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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to me it looks like its sittin a little low looking at the center link and header tubes. I can tell you now,a mini starter will be a very good and worth while upgrade with that style of header,only a couple of them dont hang pipes down like that and they are $$$$ any other header has those 3 tubes down low like that and need ride hieght adjustment. can you post pics the engine mounts? looks like you and your son scored a nice project 
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Re: Got a '74 Dart Sport, need some advice?
[Re: Dodgeman67]
#1052682
08/15/11 01:39 AM
08/15/11 01:39 AM
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
Kern Dog
Striving for excellence
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Striving for excellence
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18,493
Granite Bay CA
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Scratchn is often a good source for info, but since the Dart Sport is a 74 model, it came with the SPOOL type motor mount K member. The truck mount setup works on cars built before 1973.
These are great cars to own and easy to modify. I have owned 23 A bodies since my first one in 1982. I currently have 6 here at the house. Parts interchange is great!
I'll recap some of the changes I have made in some of my cars. Some have already been covered though.
*65-70 B body 8 3/4 axle OR 69/70 8.25 axle. Wider by three inches and already with the bigger bolt pattern. You'd certainly want to change out the left hand lug bolts though. Remove the spring pads and move them in 1/2" per side to fit the A body 43" width. If you decide to use an 8.25 axle, you can find Sure Grip differentials in some Dakota and Durango 4x4 models built before 1997. They can be rebuilt and swapped in the housing for less than new. Remember though, to go from a 7.25 to an 8.25 OR 8.75 axle, you need to also use the spring mount plates and U bolts! the 7.25 axle uses smaller axle tubes.
*73-76 A body front disc brakes: Sure, they are the perfect fit, but they ALSO are getting harder to find. ANY rear wheel drive Mopar car from 72 and later (Except C body) will have disc spindle/knuckles and rotors that can work. You WILL need upper control arms with the larger upper ball joint though. I have found that these were on EVERY 73-76 A body with front discs as well as the 73 and later A body cars with 10" front drums. There were some 73-76 A body cars with 9" front drums but not very many.
*Want a front sway bar for cheap? 73-87 Chevy 3/4 and 1 ton trucks have a front sway bar that has similar contours to the A body bars. The ends need to be cut shorter and you need to drill holes to attach end links. Aftermarket sway bars can be had for a little over $100 plus shipping, but if you enjoy making brackets and fabricating stuff like I do, it can be done cheaper. I have an 1 1/4" GM front sway bar in my 67 Dart. That car corners FLAT!
*Rear sway bar: Just like with the front, you CAN buy a new one, OR....The Diplomat/Gran Fury cop cars built from 78-89 come with a frame hung unit that fits with minor mods. Also the 82-93 Camaro/Firebirds rear bar can be made to fit. Like with any custom fit job, there are a few brackets to make yourself. Not too hard. I have one in the 67 Dart.
*If you really want better header clearance, you are limited to TTI and Dougs headers. They are both excellent products and they tuck up nicely. The TTIs are the most expensive. Trying to go cheap on headers means poor fitment, limited ground clearance and early failure of gaskets. TTI headers are in the $700 range. If you are running a stock motor or even a mild one, you may be better off using iron manifolds and a good 2 1/2" dual exhaust system. Mopar Muscle magazine did a Dyno test on exhaust systems years ago using a 300 horse crate 360. Headers were worth 18 horsepower over the stock 318 manifolds. Thats nothing to sneeze at, but those were the TTI pipes. Personally, I'd dump the cheapies and install a pair of 340 manifolds for less than half the price of TTIs.
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Re: Got a '74 Dart Sport, need some advice?
[Re: Dodgeman67]
#1052683
08/15/11 03:43 AM
08/15/11 03:43 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,270
Missouri
MY340
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,270
Missouri
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Nice car You can raise the torsion bars up to get alittle more ground clearance without effecting alignment. You can weld a small skid plate onto the bottom of the tubes to help protect them. Get and install a ministarter for the car. Headers KILL fullsize Mopar starters! Good luck with the car. 
1970 FE5 Duster 360/904/3.91's SOLD
1973 TB3 SpaceDuster 340/4spd/4.10's SOLD
Moparless for now but when the opportunity is right I'll have another one.
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Re: Got a '74 Dart Sport, need some advice?
[Re: Kern Dog]
#1052685
08/15/11 06:54 PM
08/15/11 06:54 PM
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
scratchnfotraction
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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Quote:
Scratchn is often a good source for info, but since the Dart Sport is a 74 model, it came with the SPOOL type motor mount K member. The truck mount setup works on cars built before 1973.
These are great cars to own and easy to modify. I have owned 23 A bodies since my first one in 1982. I currently have 6 here at the house. Parts interchange is great!
I'll recap some of the changes I have made in some of my cars. Some have already been covered though.
*65-70 B body 8 3/4 axle OR 69/70 8.25 axle. Wider by three inches and already with the bigger bolt pattern. You'd certainly want to change out the left hand lug bolts though. Remove the spring pads and move them in 1/2" per side to fit the A body 43" width. If you decide to use an 8.25 axle, you can find Sure Grip differentials in some Dakota and Durango 4x4 models built before 1997. They can be rebuilt and swapped in the housing for less than new. Remember though, to go from a 7.25 to an 8.25 OR 8.75 axle, you need to also use the spring mount plates and U bolts! the 7.25 axle uses smaller axle tubes.
*73-76 A body front disc brakes: Sure, they are the perfect fit, but they ALSO are getting harder to find. ANY rear wheel drive Mopar car from 72 and later (Except C body) will have disc spindle/knuckles and rotors that can work. You WILL need upper control arms with the larger upper ball joint though. I have found that these were on EVERY 73-76 A body with front discs as well as the 73 and later A body cars with 10" front drums. There were some 73-76 A body cars with 9" front drums but not very many.
*Want a front sway bar for cheap? 73-87 Chevy 3/4 and 1 ton trucks have a front sway bar that has similar contours to the A body bars. The ends need to be cut shorter and you need to drill holes to attach end links. Aftermarket sway bars can be had for a little over $100 plus shipping, but if you enjoy making brackets and fabricating stuff like I do, it can be done cheaper. I have an 1 1/4" GM front sway bar in my 67 Dart. That car corners FLAT!
*Rear sway bar: Just like with the front, you CAN buy a new one, OR....The Diplomat/Gran Fury cop cars built from 78-89 come with a frame hung unit that fits with minor mods. Also the 82-93 Camaro/Firebirds rear bar can be made to fit. Like with any custom fit job, there are a few brackets to make yourself. Not too hard. I have one in the 67 Dart.
*If you really want better header clearance, you are limited to TTI and Dougs headers. They are both excellent products and they tuck up nicely. The TTIs are the most expensive. Trying to go cheap on headers means poor fitment, limited ground clearance and early failure of gaskets. TTI headers are in the $700 range. If you are running a stock motor or even a mild one, you may be better off using iron manifolds and a good 2 1/2" dual exhaust system. Mopar Muscle magazine did a Dyno test on exhaust systems years ago using a 300 horse crate 360. Headers were worth 18 horsepower over the stock 318 manifolds. Thats nothing to sneeze at, but those were the TTI pipes. Personally, I'd dump the cheapies and install a pair of 340 manifolds for less than half the price of TTIs.
DOH!..i missed that..went right over my head,my 74 had an early v-8 k swaped in,but i used a 73 k on my 68 Dart..
oh well maybe next time 
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