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Re: Subframe connectors, which way shoul [Re: 68Fastback] #1041
01/21/04 08:23 PM
01/21/04 08:23 PM
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Western Michigan
68Fastback Offline
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Different view

651863-100_0199.jpg (281 downloads)
Re: Subframe connectors, which way shoul [Re: 68Fastback] #1042
01/21/04 09:04 PM
01/21/04 09:04 PM
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Summit, NJ
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whiplash Offline
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Is it just me or do those magnum force ones just ooks like they're not gonna cut it? man for $249, I could and pay myself $50/hr and include materials and still make at least 2 sets!


  • 67 coronet 4dr, 383/727/GVOD, blown, EFI, daily driver
  • 230/238, 114°LSA cam, 1.6 rollers, 9:1 comp, 8 psi boost
  • NEW BEST ET - 12.40@110mph...
Re: Subframe connectors, which way shoul [Re: origcharger] #1043
01/21/04 11:21 PM
01/21/04 11:21 PM

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No I have not......until now. Hmmmmmmmmmm

Re: Subframe connectors, which way shoul #1044
01/22/04 12:06 AM
01/22/04 12:06 AM
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Sparks,Nv.
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71 Challenger I did'nt want to cut mine either nor did I want rails sticking up through the floor pan, but I did want to attach the floor to them. Which is why I did them the way I did, it's a 70 cuda by the way and it really did'nt take that long to do

Re: Subframe connectors, which way shoul [Re: pete] #1045
01/22/04 09:49 AM
01/22/04 09:49 AM

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Thanks Pete. Have a question for you then. Did it interfere with the front seat any (as far as clearance with the brackets), probaly not, but thought I would ask. What about foot placement in the rear floorpan? Cumbersome? Or is the protrusion minimal? Thanks again Pete.

Re: Subframe connectors, which way shoul [Re: NotaHemi] #1046
01/22/04 10:39 AM
01/22/04 10:39 AM
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Quote:

talk about getting in on this post late, but should the engine be in the car to do the connectors. Mine is still on the stand waiting to go to the machine shop.
Any disadvantages to doing the cage, SFC without the weight in the nose?




In a word no. The only time you really need to have the car at wt. is to set ride ht.

If you are using a motor or mid plate bolt those in. It will create some stiffness.

Also unless rules say so go through the floor. It is by far the strongest. But any connector will work, some just better than others.

Tube cars are not as stiff as peopel think is correct but they are stiffer in the places that it needs it. They special built. Look at some pics of fast cars at top end. You will see most have the left front tire either just off the ground or just touching.

As for the front not touching on the jacks. That means the car is already a little bent. depending on where the bend is the frame connectors and cage will straighten out the car. But it should be level or close to it. Re check to make sure the jacks are level. The floor might not be level in the area you are in. Set the jacks where the car will sit and level them front to back and side to side. The mark the spot for the jacks. I will bet that the jacks are not level/even.


Re: Subframe connectors, which way shoul [Re: mopartony] #1047
01/22/04 11:42 AM
01/22/04 11:42 AM
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Just for reference, I used 2 x 3 x 0.125 tube with the 3" being verticle on the boy's 72 duster. I went all the way back to my MP inboard spring kit box by only cutting out the TOP 2" where it interferes with the rear subframe ( Like ken is asking), so I overboxed the original subframe. What is strange to me is, with the above done the floorpan DID NOT need to be cut open, as it perfectly butted against the floor when it bottomed against the original frame rails. I am wondering if my framerails are taller than some others that have done A bodies? Anyway, my framerail has not been put to the test, but it was nice to not have to cut sheetmetal. This also allowed welding the rail to the floorpan (where the ribs allowed contact to be seen) all the way foreward to the higher section for the front seat. I think that my car was built different than many others, especially since I used bigblockdart for reference, and If I recall they had to cut the pans! Maybe I got metric tubing-LOL Hope this helps Allen


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Re: Subframe connectors, which way shoul [Re: hemiallen] #1048
01/22/04 12:34 PM
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Regarding Pete's install (which looks awesome), isn't the connector only as strong as it's weakest/smallest point? If you trim the height to fit flush against the floor, then wouldn't it be the same as just using ~1.5x2" box tubing? I know welding it to the floor helps, and you could do that as well with the 1.5x2" connectors with well placed outriggers (specifies in MP chassis manual)

Re: Subframe connectors, which way shoul #1049
01/22/04 04:39 PM
01/22/04 04:39 PM
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Northern OH
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Oldtimer, Here is a pic. of the scrapper I used. A lot better than the flimsey flat ones. Plus you can get just about everything.

653956-scrapper.jpg (296 downloads)
Re: Subframe connectors, which way shoul #1050
01/22/04 11:46 PM
01/22/04 11:46 PM
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Sparks,Nv.
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71 Challenger No interference at all. The floor pan is intact no cuts and the rail is completely under the pan. will try and post an interior pic this weekend. Another reason I did it this way was to make it look as original as at all possible, you'll see I also drilled drain holes, I guess I maybe went to far but what the h#ll I'm only gonna do this once.(on this car)

Re: Subframe connectors, which way shoul [Re: pete] #1051
01/23/04 01:20 AM
01/23/04 01:20 AM
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Quote:

... I guess I maybe went to far but what the h#ll I'm only gonna do this once.(on this car)




There are probably 100 hack jobs for every tasteful, well-built car. We need more people to go "too far". Nice work!

Re: Subframe connectors, which way shoul [Re: pete] #1052
01/23/04 10:10 AM
01/23/04 10:10 AM

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Thanks Pete, I would appreciate that. And I agree, very nice job!

Re: Subframe connectors, which way shoul [Re: pete] #1053
01/23/04 10:16 AM
01/23/04 10:16 AM

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Man Pete, after reading your post again, and how you said you did not cut it, I went and looked at your pic. I thought you HAD cut the floor, and the connector was running THROUGH the floor (I did my Mustang that way, which is why I assumed you did too). Wow! I did not realize it was just FOLLOWING the bottom of the pan, even more impressive then I originally thought!!!

Re: Subframe connectors, which way should we [Re: ZIPPY] #1054
01/23/04 11:14 AM
01/23/04 11:14 AM

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Read the post and I had a thought that I haven't heard anyone mention. I've attached a pic that vaguely illustrates the welding technique I am considering. Not sure if it's a good idea, but it seems to eliminate what would appear to be a byproduct of welding around a single cross section of a subsection (frame-rail). The idea is to cut the new section at angles that will be welded along the 'rails' in such a way that no two welds are adjacent to each other, therefore the old metal does not have a single cross-section weld that creates an 'overheat' weak-spot.

Any questions?

655747-GOOD.jpg (260 downloads)
Last edited by 1UglyFish; 01/23/04 11:17 AM.
Re: Subframe connectors, which way should we #1055
01/23/04 12:33 PM
01/23/04 12:33 PM

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Hey OldTimer...

Do yourself a favor... If you are cleaning the undercoating off of the entire underside of the car, go out and get a cake serving spatula. There exists a 10-12" long, flexible flat steel with rounded tip. Makes removing undercoating from the trans tunnel and all the radiuses SOOOOO eaasy!

I think I posted a pic of this once before. I will see if I can find it. I have tried EVERYTHING and this was the best by FAR!


Re: Subframe connectors, which way should we #1056
01/23/04 12:34 PM
01/23/04 12:34 PM

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Heck, I would even be willing to send it to you, as long as you sent it back after you were done!


Re: Subframe connectors, which way shoul [Re: pete] #1057
01/25/04 12:18 PM
01/25/04 12:18 PM

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Got any pics of the inside yet Pete?

Re: Subframe connectors, which way should we #1058
01/25/04 12:33 PM
01/25/04 12:33 PM
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Quote:

Read the post and I had a thought that I haven't heard anyone mention. I've attached a pic that vaguely illustrates the welding technique I am considering. Not sure if it's a good idea, but it seems to eliminate what would appear to be a byproduct of welding around a single cross section of a subsection (frame-rail). The idea is to cut the new section at angles that will be welded along the 'rails' in such a way that no two welds are adjacent to each other, therefore the old metal does not have a single cross-section weld that creates an 'overheat' weak-spot.

Any questions?






The technique I used for the rear part was as follows:

Cut a 2x3" opening in the rear frame section. Slide in the subframe connector (easier than it sounds), and do a 360 degree weld at the opening (lap weld). Also want to have 4 or 6 holes in the rear subframe where the connector is stuffed and do some welds there too. Cant make the rear any stronger than that. As for the fron, it's just a typical butt weld. Couple gussets can't hurt.

See enclosed pic of rear on my 71 RR:

660162-Dsc00008.jpg (237 downloads)
Re: Subframe connectors, which way shoul #1059
01/25/04 12:37 PM
01/25/04 12:37 PM
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'nother pic (welded):

Re: Subframe connectors, which way shoul [Re: Molloy] #1060
01/25/04 12:43 PM
01/25/04 12:43 PM
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Pic from the top. Pokes through a bunch on 71 B-bodies. Not as bad as on 69 B-body.

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