Hi All,
Looking for advice on Dry sump system for my TT hemi project.

To be honest my knowledge in this area is virtually nil, other than what I have read or vendor articles, can any one offer real world experience advice . . .

3 Stage v 4 Stage,choices/recommendations. when is what necessary ?

Dry sump choices/recommendations, etc, etc, etc . . . .

There isn't a lot of information floating around on Mopar dry sump setups. I had to fabricate most of the parts myself when I built by first dry sump motor. Now I make a few parts to help other guys out such as this block plate.

pbody do you run a vacuum pump along with it?

Thanks. I too am looking into this. I want to do like you have done 2 from the pan 1 from the lifter valley. I want to run one off the distributor gear shaft as my ride is a street strip car. I seen indy sales one like it and razor does as well, but missles website is no longer up did they go under?

This is hopefully an informative post based on my experiences:

We have used gear belt driven pumps for years---generally known as "Weaver" systems. These use a driven gear and an idler gear inside a machined housing that creates either pressure or vacuum. If only one section is used, then it provides pressurized oil to feed the engine. If you add additional sections, they provide vacuum to suck the oil out of the engine and return it to a remote tank. I've seen two stage pumps used(one pressure/one vacuum) on up to as many as seven sections. And there are different widths of sections. Wider sections provide more than narrow sections.

My experience is with crank driven systems----and gearbelt driven at that. Generally, you drive the pump at half crank speed----you can vary that ratio some but not much.

Now for the little known part----these systems have been used on oval track engine for years---I have one pump that is 40 years old----thousands of miles at race speeds---still in good condition. These things show up used all the time. I've paid as little as $15 at auction but generally are around $150 up. Some later pumps will go for $400-500 but they are almost new from a good source.

About the only thing that needs to be done is periodically replace the aluminum sections---no big deal, fairly cheap, can be done by the individual, pay attention to what you are doing. When reassembled almost good as new.

A dry sump pump is needed on any engine that goes to 9000RPM. The standard pump just won't keep up. Plus, a good pump will provide up to 12-13" of vacuum(on gas). But, go to methanol it won't provide that much vacuum----you will need a vacuum pump also.

I bought most of my stuff from CV Products which leans
towards the roundy round guys

Another option is the "Missle Pump" http://www.razorperformance.com/mopar.htm
HTH's

Hi Mark,
My real world experience is limited to running a 3-stage Weaver spur gear pump, so take my post as my personal opinion.
Different pump gears and sizes makes a huge difference in how much oils and vacuum each section sucks.
The best pumps have roots style lobes which makes them pump air much better than an spur gear pump, and with a pump sized correctly, you might even get away with an adding an vacuum pump.
If it is possible for a twin turbo on methanol, ? don´t know.
I would go with a 5 or 6 stage pump, 5 is easier to plumb with four suctions in the pan.
There are plenty of good roots style pumps to choose from, like Peterson R4, Barnes and my favorite Autoverdi from Sweden.

I would advice not to use light weight hoses as earl´s pro-lite 350 even with a inner support spring on the suction lines.
I am going to use regular steel braided on those.

Tom

Guys, thanks for your input so far & will check out the suggestions, plus I will continue to have a read up & see what I can learn . . .

Just to clarify; I'm Not looking to turn max RPM, I had concerns in loosing oil under hard acceleration conditions.

Tom,
I'm Staying with pump gas, until they start selling alcohol at my local local gas station

Cheers,
Mark . . .