I have my short block assembled and started mocking up the top end I am using Indy SR heads and Harland Sharp 1.5 rockers it is a solid roller with .739/.715 lift the roller starts in the middle of the valve tip and rolls to the exhaust side and stays there I know the shaft needs to come up ie shims but the radius in the rocker stand is very shallow on these heads and the shaft needs to come up about .060 any suggestions I know the Jesel stuff would fix this but too far along to change to pushrod oiling and I am not a fan of spraybar valve covers has anyone milled the stands off and made taller ones and retained the shaft oiling? Looking for ideas any help would be great

Using shims on an aluminum head is not a good idea.
Have welded up and remachine many a heads from using shims.
The stand will crack right down the center.

Somebody makes a set of aluminum blocks with the .875 hole and the bolt hole.for moving the bar.

Call mancini or search online

Dont shim the bar

this is the exact reason we manufacture solid billet aluminum spacers with the correct taper to fit the shaft and rocker stands. when used with good billet hold downs and studs you can correct the geometry with up to .120" thick spacers. i highly recommend you don't try stacking conventional shims.

You can have some blocks made easy enough, even with
the oiling hole then mill off the stands to the needed
height

??? Starts in the middle and as lift progresses moves to the exhaust side? Don't the tips need a lash cap as things need to go the other way??????
Mark the tip of the valve with felt tip pen and then just slide the rocker back and forth so the wheel will mark the tip and show exactly where it starts from.

You can get blocks made up, or you can change rocker arms. A different brand of rocker arms will work better on those heads.

I covered this subject in my book. The mfgs make rocker arms in all different lengths. HS makes their rocker arms really long. Put a shorter rocker arm on there and you won't need to mess with shims or welding or blocks.

(crabman is correct, you need shorter rocker arms not shims. You need to sink the rocker shafts into the head rather than raise them.)

Andy,
I don't have your book guess I should buy one what rockers are shorter cost is not a HUGE factor if T&D would fix the issue i would buy a set do you know if they are shorter and if so how much

Here's a pic of the ones that Dan made for me earlier this year for my Stage VI heads. You'll have to contact him directly re: price.

Are these new SR's? Has anything been done to them? Are you sure someone hasnt changed valves etc? Typically H/S rocker arms fit very well on SR's, so I would question valve lengths etc.When you have the parts mocked up, how much adjuster screw thread is sticking out bottom of rocker? Maybe you have something strange going on, but like mentioned, I have a lot of SR headed combos out there without this problem WITH H/S too. Its more a problem on Ebrocks than SRs and that even has been resolved.

These heads are about 5-6 years old were ported by modern cyl head and had tons of passes on them and had crane rockers we freshened the heads and the guides and valves were beat to death and the engine was always having valve train issues breaking rocker arms and such I bought the engine this way from a friend when we replaced the valves we measured the old valves and bought the same size I relly feel the rocker pedastal casting on this one set of heads is just not correct I think the harland sharp rocker is too long and the crane rocker was too short causing guide/valve wear I have a newer set of SR heads on another motor that harland sharp rockers came off of and had no issues by the way the new heads were cnc ported by indy and are not even close to the older set done by modern the old set are better flowing heads from .100 to .800

I keep a collection of different rocker arms on hand so I can quickly check the geometry on new combinations. Crane rocker arms are the shortest and HS are the longest. If you bought one pair of Crane rocker arms that you give you a good comparison to what you have on there now.

T&D should fit correct on the SR heads but they are expensive. It isn't that easy to buy just a pair for checking becuase they use a smaller shaft size.

In the picture I posted the plain aluminum rocker arm is from Hughes. The Hughes rocker arm is mid-length. It is shorter than HS and longer than Crane. You might buy a couple of them just to check the geometry on your heads.

The valves I used are manley 11380-8 and 11381-3 thanks Andy I have a set of crane rockers and they seem to be too short staying on the intake side of the valve through full lift I think this is what caused the guide/valve wear we just repaired I will call t&d in the morning I don't mind spending the money on good parts if it will fix the issue

Certainly starting to sound like a head specific problem for sure. You have a set that fits fine, so obviously the H/S do work fine on these heads, just not that particular pair. You'll be needing to do a little minor custom work it appears.

The Cranes fit standard iron heads fine, and some Edelbrocks fine, but they too need to be changed. I have spoke to Crane about this, but its not on the immediate " to do" list". H/s will make semi customs as well by moving some of the components for you, as will T&D.

I bet he can slap some lash caps on and be pretty close

Yes, lash caps should move the roller towards the center of the valve when using rocker arms that are too long. That is a cheap and easy fix. As long as the valves are kept properly adjusted the lash caps shouldn't cause any problems.

I milled the stands off of my Victor heads and used these maxwedge stands:
http://www.billetracingparts.com/Max%20Wedge%20Stands.html

I thought he mentioned lash caps, but apparently not...my bad....sounds like he may be close enough with them.

Too many people get way to " nervous" about running lash caps. If you do proper maintenance, they are trouble free. I run them on the higher lapped cars ( 300+ passes a year) and anything with a little higher spring pressure. You definately notice the better stem tip wear on the valves that use them.

We run ther one piece locking caps on the blown alky motors, and they work excellent, but quite a different application. I'm way more concerned with putting properly fitting locks and retainers on , than I am with lash caps. There are a lot of poor fitting locks out there.

little hyjack here but:

the roller tip should be dead center and half lift?

the roller tip should be near center throught the arc of motion?

lash caps will move the roller tip towards the intake side if needed?

thanks! good stuff!!

Post deleted by crabman173

David,

I think we all lived thru that deal!....gonna send ya a PM later

Unless you have an actual Miller product, you cannot have mid-lift @ 90° etc. geometry on both rocker levers. If you achieve this on the long (valve-side) lever, the short (pushrod-side) lever will have asymmetrical motion B & A 90°, which will reduce maximum lift slightly. The highest lift is some compromise on both sides, and YMMV.
A rocker set at mid-lift will have this scrub pattern:
The scrub path begins at 0% lift with the valve closed and the roller closest to the rocker shaft, and to the stem tip's near edge (not the center).
As the valve opens, the roller walks away from the rocker shaft toward the stem center.
Its path is centered on the stem tip at 25% lift (but this may not be the tip's actual center).
It reaches its farthest point away from the rocker shaft at 50% lift.
As the valve closes, the roller walks back, reaching its own center again at 75% lift, and the same closest point to the shaft at full lift.

The width of the scrub path should be very small, but it cannot be shortened more than it's actual length vs. lift permits - which is determined by the triangle formed by the lever and lift.

I wrote an .xls program that generates ideal scrub in inches and degrees of sweep from known rocker dimensions - e-mail for a copy.

Lash caps could be an option would have to change the locks on the exhaust I still think the shaft needs to come up I am going to make some shims to just for mochup to see

Came up with a fix a good bit of machining but it turned out nice will post some pics and more detail tomorrow racing this weekend is out for sure still need to measure for pushrods